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DISCOVER SPAIN

Flamenco, horses and sherry: Jerez’s Feria del Caballo

The swish of a flamenco skirt, the soft beat of hooves drumming on the roads and the smell of sweet sherry, these are the senses you'll experience at Jerez de la Frontera’s Feria del Caballo in May, a worthy alternative to Seville's busy April Fair.

Flamenco, horses and sherry: Jerez's Feria del Caballo
Jerez de la Frontera's Feria del Caballo. Photo: Esme Fox

There’s nothing quite so Andalusian as attending a local feria or festival, comprising all the elements you’d expect from this quintessential area of Spain – flamenco, horses and lots of food and drink.

While the most famous feria is Seville’s Feria de Abril, it may not actually be the best place to experience your first one. This is primarily because in Seville, visitors are not allowed to enter many of the so-called casetas (tents or marquees) where the main events such as music and dancing take place.

These are reserved for private companies or are by invitation only. By visiting the Feria del Caballo in Jerez de la Frontera instead, you’ll be able to enter almost all the casetas for free and not have to worry about jostling for space with so many other tourists, as it’s mainly locals who attend.

Horses wait in the shade at the Feria del Caballo in Jerez. Photo: Esme Fox

Jerez lies approximately 90km south of Seville and is renowned throughout the country for three things – horses, flamenco and sherry. It forms one point of the famed Sherry Triangle, where the majority of Spain’s sherry or jerez is produced and is also home to the prestigious Real Escuela Andaluza del Arte Ecuestre (Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art). This is where some of Spain’s most talented horses perform and dance with their riders.

READ ALSO: The surprising connection between Spanish sherry and the British and Irish

While the town also holds a sherry festival and a flamenco festival, the Feria del Caballo is where all three elements are brought together.

This year the Feria del Caballo takes place from May 4th to the 11th, 2024. Like previous years the main fair will take place in the Parque González Hontoria, just north of the city centre.

Traditional trajes de flamenco in Jerez. Photo: Esme Fox
 

During the day time, there are several dressage competitions taking place, then as late afternoon and evening draws near, the whole town heads to the fairground for an evening of partying and drinking.

Everyone dons their traditional trajes de flamenco or flamenco costumes, and horse-drawn carriages take revellers for rides along the dusty streets, lined with casetas, decorations and barrels of sherry.

By night the whole fairground is aglow with twinkly multicoloured lights. Flamenco music blares from each caseta and everyone shows off their Sevillanas moves. Sevillanas is a traditional folk dance from the region of Seville, which could be mistaken for flamenco to the untrained eye.

Jerez’s Feria del Caballo by night. Photo: Esme Fox

The order of the day is a rebujito, the feria’s classic tipple which is a mixture of sherry and lemonade. It might not sound great, but it can get quite addictive.

Next to the park, which has been turned into a mini festival city within itself is a traditional funfair complete with rides such as twirling tea cups and bumper cars, as well as games from coconut shys to fishing for plastic ducks and mock shooting ranges.

Dressage competition at the Feria del Caballo in Jerez. Photo: Esme Fox

The history of the Feria del Caballo goes back over 500 years. In 1264 Alfonso X granted the town two annual duty-free fairs, one in April and the other in September/October. By the Middle Ages, this turned into commercial livestock fairs that took place around the same months. 

However, it wasn’t until 1955 when the Domecq Sherry family came up with the idea of a festival focused on the city’s connections with horses.

Today, Jerez de la Frontera offers one of the best places to experience a typical Andalusian feria

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SPANISH TRADITIONS

Spain to scrap national bullfighting prize

Spain's left-wing government said on Friday it would scrap a national prize for bullfighting, a move which angered supporters of the controversial spectacle but was welcomed by animal rights groups.

Spain to scrap national bullfighting prize

“A growing majority” of Spaniards are concerned about animal welfare, so “we did not believe it is appropriate to maintain an award that rewards a form of animal abuse”, Culture Minister Ernest Urtasun said.

“I think they understand even less that these forms of animal torture are rewarded with medals that come with monetary prizes using public money,” he added during an interview with private television La Sexta.

The annual prize, which was created in 2011 under a previous Socialist government and was first awarded in 2013, grants 30,000 euros ($32,000) to winners.

Top matadors such as Enrique Ponz and Julián López, known as “El Juli”, have won the prize in the past.

Bullfighting retains a passionate following in some circles in Spain and leading matadors are treated as celebrities.

But the practice’s mass appeal has faded and polls show a rising disinterest across the country, especially among the young.

During the 2021-22 season, the last period for which figures are available, only 1.9 percent of Spain’s population attended a bullfight, according to the culture ministry.

Spain’s main opposition conservative Popular Party (PP) vowed to reinstate the prize if it returns to power.

PP spokesman Boja Semper said bullfighting was a reflection of Spain’s traditions and culture.

IN DEPTH: Will bullfighting ever be banned in Spain?

He accused Socialist Prime Minister Pedro Sánchez’s government of being “obsessed with sticking its finger in the eye of those who do not think” as it does.

By contrast, animal rights party PACMA called for the “total abolition” of all public support for bullfighting, saying it “cannot be justified under any circumstance”.

Several regional governments, including one run by the Socialists, said they would create their own bullfighting prizes to replace the one being scrapped.

The Fundación del Toro de Lidia, an NGO that promotes bullfighting in Spain, said the culture minister had the “obligation to promote all cultural manifestations, including bullfighting”.

But animal rights groups welcomed the government’s decision.

“This measure marks a milestone in the fight against bullfighting, a controversial practice that has for years generated debate,” animal rights group Animanaturalis said.

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