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LA BELLE VIE

La Belle Vie: Places to visit in Paris this summer and the official ‘French values’

From what to expect when visiting France this summer to why the Mona Lisa is famous and how foreigners would change France, this week's La Belle Vie newsletter offers you an essential starting point for eating, talking, drinking and living like a French person.

La Belle Vie: Places to visit in Paris this summer and the official 'French values'
A wooden flag with the national motto of France - Liberty, Equality, Fraternity (Liberte, Egalite, Fraternite) and the national colours is seen in the town of Entraygues-sur-Truyère, south-central France, on August 7, 2018. (Photo by PASCAL PAVANI / AFP)

La Belle Vie is our regular look at the real culture of France – from language to cuisine, manners to films. This newsletter is published weekly and you can receive it directly to your inbox, by going to your newsletter preferences in “My account”.

If you have spent any time with Parisians in the last several months (years, even), then you may have noticed an air of apprehension about the Olympic Games. Any time I ask Parisian if they’ll be in the city during the Olympics, I’m met with either a relieved “Thank goodness I’ll be in the countryside” or a frustrated “Yes, I’ll be stuck here”.

My theory is that people will start getting excited once the Games begin. After all, my skeptical neighbours were all outside joyfully watching the Olympic Torch relay go through our neighbourhood. 

But the nervous sentiment has trickled over to discussions about visiting France in general. It is true that Paris will be crowded – we are expecting around five million more visitors during the Games than in an average summer – but I don’t agree with the notion that the entire country is better avoided. Paris is not France.

Should I avoid France this summer because of the Olympics?

If you are coming to Paris this summer, either as a sports-lover or a regular tourist, then be aware that city will be transformed for the Olympic Games.

Security zones will be put in place around Games venues, and the area immediately surrounding the river Seine will be blocked off ahead and only accessible with a QR code in the lead-up to the opening ceremony. 

While the usual landmarks and museums will mostly remain open (though with some adaptations, such altered operating hours and obligatory advanced reservations), this is a great opportunity to test out some of the lesser-known museums.

5 lesser-known museums in Paris to visit this summer

I promise I’m not recommending these museums solely because I think the Mona Lisa is a bit overrated, though that may be changing as the Louvre prepares to give the painting its own room to improve visitors’ experiences. I genuinely think that Paris has a lot to offer off-the-beaten track. 

If you decide to visit Mona, or La Jaconde as she is known in France, you might be curious why she is in France in the first place, considering both the painter and subject are Italian.

Why is the Mona Lisa so famous (and why is it even in France)?

Recently, the French government passed an immigration law that created a new obligation for foreigners requesting residency cards to sign a contract promising to ‘respect French values’. Nothing was said about the primacy of French cheese, wine or other gastronomy, nor was there any mention of the crucial two-hour lunch-break and statutory five weeks of holiday per year.

There was a line about respecting France’s national anthem, the Marseillaise

The ‘French values’ that foreign residents must respect

Most of the values we foreigners must respect seem pretty doable in my opinion (I can’t argue with the line about ‘refraining from sexist attitudes’).

As for the things that foreigners would change about France, we recently asked our readers if there is anything they would alter about this country if they had unlimited power. 

Banning insects to abolishing ‘le’ and ‘la’ – The changes that readers would make to France

Aside from the official values France expects you to hold, there are a few other ways you might find yourself becoming more French over time.

From being prepared for strikes to attitudes about bread and wine, Norwegian writer Ingri Bergo lays out nine ways foreigners might be ‘Frenchified’.

Nine signs that you are becoming French

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LA BELLE VIE

La Belle Vie: Why French people like working in the office and how to be a good tourist

From the French approach to remote work to bargains on quality wine and essential tips for being a tourist in France, this week's La Belle Vie newsletter offers you an essential starting point for eating, talking, drinking and living like a French person.

La Belle Vie: Why French people like working in the office and how to be a good tourist

Apparently, there is a new season of Emily in Paris on Netflix, in case you were curious.

I have a bit of a love-hate relationship with the show. Most of the time, I find it exhausting to explain how unrealistic it is.

That said, occasionally it perfectly captures the conversations I have had countless times with French people and other foreigners in the city.

One scene that stands out takes place in the first season when Emily whines to her colleagues about the possibility of getting fired. The two French men laugh and say something along the lines of ‘Is that all? It’s impossible to be fired in France. Don’t worry’.

A lot of people – French and foreign – seem to believe this line, but it is a bit of an exaggeration.

Mythbuster: Is it actually impossible to be sacked in France?

Emily does not exactly showcase French values of work-life balance, but that is usually a priority for those looking to move to France for work.

In 2017, France even passed legislation giving workers the ‘right to disconnect’. But, perhaps surprisingly, France has been slow to embrace remote work, and French workers spend more time in the office than those in other industrialised countries. 

Personally, I am very thankful to have an in-person office space, but I’m not sure I would feel the same if I had the commute from my first year in France, which was over an hour and a half, and it involved taking the erratic RER A every morning. 

Why you’re less likely to work from home in France compared to other countries

For those looking to visit France, rather than permanently move here, we have some advice for how to make the most out of your experience.

Each person has their own approach to travel – you may prefer to get up early and pack in a full day of cultural activities, or you might like to sleep in and take it easy, wandering around and spontaneously stumbling upon activities.

That said, there are some habits that are sure to get you an eye roll or even a talking to from a random French stranger. 

Essential advice for how to be a good tourist in France

One way to make your trip to France 10x better would be to visit in the off-season. I know that this is not accessible to everyone, especially those with school-aged children.

But if it is possible, consider doing so to enjoy more temperate weather, shorter lines and smaller crowds. If you visit during autumn, you can enjoy some of the fantastic wine harvest festivals, like the Beaujolais Nouveau festival. 

If you’re more interested in buying some nice wine (at an affordable price), then mark down the dates of the autumn foire aux vins – the perfect time to stock up on quality vintages at a fraction of the price.

Foire aux vins: How to find bargains on high quality wine in France

On the topic of tourism, one of the most France’s busiest airports will have a big change in November. 

Ryanair announced plans to close their base of operations at Bordeaux airport (BOD), which could spell trouble considering the low-cost airline operates about a quarter of BOD’s flights. 

What will happen to flights from Bordeaux airport after Ryanair leaves?

And finally, the Paralympic Games are winding to a close this week. After several weeks of Olympic fun, I will be sad to see the Games end, though not so much that I want the Olympic rings to stay on the Eiffel Tower forever.

In the spirit of the Paralympic Games, The Local has put together a vocabulary guide to help talk about disability in French, in an inclusive and respectful way.

The French words to use and avoid when talking about disability

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