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INSIDE ITALY

Inside Italy: Trevi Fountain tickets, a controversial cricket ban and is Rome’s taxi problem over?

In this week's Inside Italy review, we look at the end of a 20-year taxi drought in Rome, new plans to charge tourists for access to the Trevi Fountain and deep-seated social tensions behind a cricket ban in northern Italy.

A tourist poses for a picture at the Trevi Fountain in 2024
A tourist poses for a picture at the Trevi Fountain in 2024. Photo by Alberto PIZZOLI / AFP

Inside Italy is our weekly look at some of the news, talking points and gossip from Italy that you might not have heard about. It’s published each Saturday and members can receive it directly to their inbox, by going to their newsletter preferences or adding their email to the sign-up box in this article.

Rome ends 20-year taxi drought – but will it be enough? 

Following years of customer complaints about long queues and lengthy wait times when trying to hail a ride, Rome will soon have new taxis as officials this week issued a public tender for the release of 1,000 new licences – the first in nearly two decades.

The move, which aimed to solve long-standing cab shortages ahead of the 2025 Jubilee, was praised by Rome mayor Roberto Gualtieri as “a historic day for the city”.

But will the upcoming release of 1,000 new licences be enough to solve the Eternal City’s chronic lack of taxis?

According to Nicola Zaccheo, president of Italy’s transport regulation authority, the new 1,000-strong fleet will only scratch the surface as the city would need at least 2,330 additional cabs to solve its shortages after it registered 4 million ‘unresolved calls’ in 2023 – that is people who tried to book a taxi but couldn’t find one.

Zaccheo also highlighted how “meeting demand does not depend solely on the number of licences, but also on how service shifts are organised”.

In May 2023, city officials brought in new rules allowing a second driver to take a shift in the same taxi, and setting out new requirements to organise shift rotations via digital platforms.

Whether or not these rules are being enforced however is a different question altogether.

And as the old Italian adage goes, tra il dire e il fare c’e’ di mezzo il mare, which roughly translates to: “There’s a distance as big as a sea between saying one thing and actually doing it”.

Trevi Fountain tickets? 

But news of the upcoming issuance of 1,000 new taxi licences wasn’t the only Rome-related story to make headlines in national media this week. 

After Rome tourism councillor Alessandro Onorato said city officials were mulling charging people for access to the iconic Trevi Fountain to cut down crowds, mayor Roberto Gualtieri called the idea a “very concrete hypothesis” on Thursday. 

“The situation at the Trevi Fountain has become very hard to handle,” Gualtieri said.

“There is a buildup of people that makes it difficult to properly enjoy the monument.”

Following a drop in tourist figures during the Covid pandemic, large numbers of visitors have returned to the Baroque masterpiece over the past couple of years, with crowds often being so deep that it is hard to get a proper look at the fountain.

According to the latest estimates, the Trevi monument sees over 10 million tourists a year – more than three times the number of people residing in the entire Rome municipality (2,755,300) 

But issues are not simply related to overtourism, as reports of ‘rogue’ international visitors swimming in the fountain have become something of a regular occurrence during the peak tourism period. 

Given the long list of incidents reported over the years, the latest of which occurred last weekend, it would be hard to blame city authorities for wanting to control access to the monument.

More than a cricket ban

The small town of Monfalcone, on Italy’s Adriatic coast, made international headlines on Friday after a BBC report dubbed it “the Italian town that banned cricket”. 

The report referred to rules prohibiting Monfalcone residents from playing the sport in local parks and outdoor areas, with fines of up to €100 for those flouting the ban.

But while authorities’ official explanation for the ban was reported as being that cricket balls posed a danger to passersby, local players said it was an anti-immigration policy targeting the local Bangladeshi community.

This was not the first time authorities in Monfalcone were embroiled in major controversy.

Last July, mayor Anna Maria Cisint, who’s a member of Matteo Salvini’s anti-immigration League party, sparked nationwide outrage after she demanded “Muslim foreigners” stop swimming “with their clothes on” when visiting Italian beaches.

Later that year, some 8,000 people took to the streets of Monfalcone after Cisint ordered the closure of two local mosques on grounds that they were “illegal”. 

League leader Salvini has so far avoided addressing the tensions in Monfalcone in public, but as another questionable (to say the least) policy from local authorities makes international news, it’s hard to see how he’ll be able to put off that discussion much longer. 

Inside Italy is our weekly look at some of the news and talking points in Italy that you might not have heard about. It’s published each Saturday and members can receive it directly to their inbox, by going to their newsletter preferences or adding their email to the sign-up box in this article.

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INSIDE ITALY

Inside Italy: Citizenship through school, carbonara wars and an August Christmas concert

In this week's Inside Italy review, we look at recent talks about making it easier for children of foreigners to become Italian, outrage over Heinz’s new canned pasta carbonara, and a Christmas concert… on August 31st.

Inside Italy: Citizenship through school, carbonara wars and an August Christmas concert

Inside Italy is our weekly look at some of the news, talking points and gossip from Italy that you might not have heard about. It’s published each Saturday and members can receive it directly to their inbox, by going to their newsletter preferences or adding their email to the sign-up box in this article.

‘School right’ citizenship 

Talks of a potential ius scholae citizenship reform were once again in the news earlier this week after Foreign Minister and centre-right Forza Italia party leader Antonio Tajani said it was his “idea of society”.

“We are loyal [to our government partners] but we must also focus on changing Italy” he added, in response to Deputy PM and League party leader Matteo Salvini, who had previously said there was “no urgency, no need” to change national citizenship laws. 

But as contrasting views over the proposed reform continue to create a rift in the ruling coalition, pitting centre-right Forza Italia against the League and PM Giorgia Meloni’s Brothers of Italy, what’s the ius scholae actually about?

The ius scholae (or ‘school right’) is a law which would grant citizenship to minors born in Italy to foreign parents upon completion of ten years of compulsory education in the country (that’s five years of elementary school, three of middle school and at least two of high school).

This would create a quicker path to Italian nationality for Italy-born children of foreign nationals as current rules mean they can only apply for citizenship after turning 18 by showing proof of uninterrupted residency in Italy. 

The introduction of a ius scholae citizenship model has long been backed by left-wing parties, including the Democratic Party (PD), but only recently endorsed by centre-right Forza Italia amid fierce protest from coalition partners League and Brothers of Italy. 

Though discussions over the potential reform have only just started and new developments are expected when parliament resumes work in September, this has already been described by Italian media as a “hot topic” with the potential of splitting the ruling coalition in two.

Carbonara wars

News that US food manufacturing giant Heinz was set to launch canned spaghetti carbonara (yes, you read that right: pasta carbonara sold in a tin) was met with horror by Italian cooks this week. 

Chef and TV personality Gianfranco Vissani said that Heinz “should be ashamed of themselves,” accusing the manufacturer of “destroying Italian culture and our cuisine”.

The chef of Rome’s Michelin-starred Pipero restaurant, Alessandro Pipero, shared Vissani’s indignation, comparing the new tinned product to “cat food”.

But culinary controversies over pasta alla carbonara, which is traditionally made with guanciale (cured pork jowl), pecorino cheese and eggs, are nothing new, as unorthodox versions of the classic Roman dish crafted by international cooks have angered Italians multiple times in recent years. 

A New York Times ‘tomato carbonara’ recipe replacing pork cheek and pecorino with bacon and parmesan, and adding tomato sauce to the eggs, sparked widespread outrage in February 2023, with a Twitter user calling the affront “a declaration of war”.

In February 2020, British celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay’s creative take on the original carbonara recipe caused an uproar on Italian social media platforms, with one user calling it “a joke” and another saying: “My liver is rebelling”.

But why are Italians so protective of their cuisine that they seemingly take up arms against any culinary creation that may stray from tradition?

As it’s generally the case with most Italian traits, habits and traditions, it’s hard to pinpoint a single factor, but it is often argued that Italians are emotionally attached to their food and cuisine in ways and to extents that aren’t matched anywhere else in Europe (and perhaps in the whole world). 

Food is a vital part of their personal identity, which means that any external reinterpretation of Italy’s centuries-old culinary traditions is automatically perceived as an attack on them as opposed to an ‘abstract’ set of cuisine-related customs and norms.

A late-August Christmas concert

English rock band Oasis made international headlines on Tuesday after they announced they will go on a reunion world tour in 2025 following a 15-year split. But many media outlets in Italy focused on a very different music performance this week. 

Italian opera trio Il Volo (‘The Flight’) will play a live gig at the Valley of the Temples in Agrigento, southern Sicily, this Saturday.

This alone would have hardly made national news had it not been for the fact that they’ll be playing a Christmas concert, which will be recorded and then aired on Italian TV on Christmas Day. 

What’s more, organisers have been asking attendees to turn up dressed in winter garb, including “black or dark-coloured clothing, pants, long dresses and skirts, long-sleeved shirts for men, outerwear or shawls for women,” to make the performance look as Christmas-like as possible. 

Unsurprisingly, the story inspired countless memes and reactions on social media, with many wondering what the reasoning behind putting on a Christmas show in Sicily on August 31st was.

With temperatures in Agrigento set to be around 27C on Saturday evening, we’re certain this will be one of the most ‘hotly anticipated’ performances of the year in Italy.

Inside Italy is our weekly look at some of the news and talking points in Italy that you might not have heard about. It’s published each Saturday and members can receive it directly to their inbox, by going to their newsletter preferences or adding their email to the sign-up box in this article.

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