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FOOD AND DRINK

Protect the prosciutto: Italy battles swine fever

Pig farmer Alberto Cavagnini has slaughtered 1,600 of his hogs due to swine fever, a virus threatening the €20 billion pork industry in Italy, including its world-famous prosciutto.

Protect the prosciutto: Italy battles swine fever
An employee prepares prosciutto crudo di Parma. Photo: GIUSEPPE CACACE/AFP.

The disease, which is fatal for pigs and disastrous for the economy, has particularly affected the northern regions of Lombardy, Piedmont and Liguria — and its spread is spooking neighbour France.

Italy recorded cases of the virus in just under 25,000 pigs in 50 farms, and in nearly 2,500 wild boars, between January 2022 and September this year, official figures show.

Cavagnini is lucky: the breeder from Brescia in northern Italy owns several farms, softening the blow from the cull, “but many breeders only have one farm”, so lose all their livestock, he told AFP.

In 2024 alone, between 50,000 and 60,000 pigs were slaughtered across Italy.

EU experts criticised Rome’s management of the crisis after a visit to the Mediterranean country in July.

“The overall disease control strategy in northern Italy needs to be improved. Each region carries out its own measures, with minimum coordination with its neighbours,” they said in a report.

Brussels recommended adopting a single strategy for the whole of northern Italy and Prime Minister Giorgia Meloni’s government appointed a special commissioner to lay down the rules.

The movement of pigs within infected and neighbouring areas is banned — except towards slaughterhouses — while access to farms is limited to the bare minimum.

“At the moment… we are building barriers” to create zones to limit the movement of wild boars, Francesco Feliziani from the National Reference Centre for Swine Fever (CEREP) told AFP.

‘Very worried’

France has been on high alert in areas that border northern Italy — particularly in the Hautes-Alpes, Alpes de Haute-Provence and Alpes-Maritimes — since January 2022.

And in June, an Italian-French technical group was set up to strengthen “cross-border cooperation for more effective management” of what is “a major threat”, according to the French government.

Those working in the Italian pork sector, which generates an annual turnover of €20 billion ($22 billion) and employs 100,000 people, are “very worried”, Ettore Prandini, head of Italy’s biggest agricultural association Coldiretti, told AFP.

Italian farms have around 10 million pigs and income losses are estimated at around €25 million, farmer Cavagnini said.

Affected farmers will receive compensation from the state, which arrives on average two years later.

But the virus also affects hundreds of breeders, who cannot transport pigs between farms, suffering losses worth “hundreds of millions” of euros which are not covered, Cavagnini said.

Commissioner Giovanni Filippini said Thursday the government had “adopted all measures to prevent the transmission of the virus” and there “have not been any new outbreaks in recent days”.

But Prandini from Coldiretti said farmers should be receiving greater financial assistance — such as a moratorium on loan repayments — and warned the virus may be curtailed, but not gone.

“If we do not manage to completely eradicate the presence of wild boars in these areas, the risk is that… the crisis passes but then returns,” he said.

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FOOD AND DRINK

How to get by in Italy if you have food allergies and dietary restrictions

Typical Italian cuisine includes plenty of gluten and dairy products. But if you’re among the millions of people worldwide who suffer from food allergies, intolerances or are under strict dietary restrictions, don’t despair.

How to get by in Italy if you have food allergies and dietary restrictions

Food limitations needn’t stop you from enjoying one of life’s greatest pleasures: eating in Italy. 

According to Food Allergy Italia, the essential ingredients of Italy’s Mediterranean-based diet are “durum wheat pasta, milk, cheese, egg, meat, shellfish and fish, vegetables, fruits and nuts (often used for preparing desserts, cakes and ice creams).”

If the list of food and/or ingredients above contains foods you must avoid – whether because of a medical condition or lifestyle choice – here are some tips and advice to help you eat well and safely in Italy.

‘Non posso mangiarlo’

If you have allergies or hypersensitivities to certain foods, suffer from diabetes or have celiac disease, it’s important to understand which Italian dishes have the potential to contain the allergens or ingredients that may cause a reaction.

If you’re allergic to nuts

Avoid ordering fried foods as many restaurants cook with peanut oil.

Keep in mind that pesto contains pine nuts (as well as parmesan cheese, a no-no for the lactose-intolerant).

Mortadella has thinly sliced pieces of pistachio and chocolate cake could be hiding hazelnuts.

People with celiac disease or gluten intolerances

Because there is a high rate of celiac disease among the Italian population, you’ll find a wide variety of gluten-free products available in supermarkets and even at local grocers. In many restaurants in Italy, it’s possible to substitute regular pasta for a gluten-free kind.  

The good news is that food producers such as GROM, a chain of Italian gelateria are completely gluten-free, offering pure and authentic Italian ice cream. 

If you’re diabetic

Although the incidence of diabetes is increasing among the Italian population, the country hasn’t quite caught up to the growing demand for sugar-free items.

A typical Italian breakfast consists of a cornetto with a cappuccino, however some bars offer grano integrale (whole wheat) pastries, which are much lower in sugar content. Be sure to ask for a vuoto (empty) that’s not filled with crema (sweet cream) or marmellata (jam).   

READ ALSO: Six key tips to save money on groceries in Italy

When shopping, check packages carefully. Fruit preserves may say senza zucchero (without sugar) but may mean “no sugar added” (senza zucchero aggiunto). Look for the words like fruttosio (fructose), saccarosio (sucrose) and destrosio (dextrose), which are all forms of sugar. Packaged foods are known for putting sugar where none is expected or needed (such as on dry-roasted, salted cashews).

If you’re vegan or can’t digest dairy

Ask your barista for a cappuccino or caffe latte di soia (soy).

Be aware that many kinds of pasta – especially ribbon ones – are made with egg, as is the classic Roman fare spaghetti alla carbonara. If you aren’t sure, ask.

READ ALSO: Vegan Nutella to hit supermarket shelves in Italy

Tips for managing your food limitations in Italy

Take care to always read food labels. The European Union requires food sold within the EU to provide essential ingredients information to inform consumers about their purchases. The information must be accurate, easy to see and understand, not misleading, and indelible.

Shop at outdoor farmer’s markets, which tend to sell food that is home-grown, organic and pure.

Call ahead and ask the restaurant if their menu includes dishes that meet your dietary requirements, i.e., vegan and vegetarian dishes, wheat/gluten-, dairy- or sugar-free options, Kosher, Halal, etc.

If you are at a restaurant, notify staff immediately that if you have serious allergies or intolerances. If you see something on your plate that looks dubious, don’t be embarrassed to double check with the chef. It’s better to be safe than sorry.

If your allergies are so severe that traces of a cross-contaminate could send you into anaphylactic shock, carry a pre-translated list of the foods you’re allergic to, if you don’t speak Italian fluently.

If you experience an allergic reaction requiring immediate medical attention, call Italian emergency number 118 and tell the operator you are having an anaphylactic reaction.

Say: “Sto avendo uno shock anafilattico da alimento. Sono gravemente allergico a …. (reading from the list of allergen/allergens)”.

An ambulance will be dispatched to your location and you will be administered epinephrine or taken directly to the nearest hospital for treatment.

Do you have any tips for people with food allergies or intolerances in Italy? Let us know in the comments section below.

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