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Cologne’s 10 must-see spots for culture vultures

As Germany’s fourth-largest city, Cologne has always played an important role in German contemporary culture. Frederica Miller explains why it's still buzzing with cultural life despite the halo of glamour shifting to Berlin.

Published: 19 August 2015 16:18 CEST

Cologne's 10 must-see spots for culture vultures

There's a lot of culture, music and great times hidden away for those who burrow under the Cologne skyline. Photo: DPA

Cologne's reputational heyday came during the division of Germany, when it became the centre of the West German art market, with Art Cologne, the world’s oldest commercial art fair, a highlight every year.

But after the fall of the Berlin Wall, all eyes shifted to the country’s new capital and have scarcely looked back since.

Despite this sudden usurpation, Cologne still remains a hub of creativity with a rich emerging cultural scene joining established old favourites.

Here is my quick overview of the places where you'll find some of the most beautiful art (and most clued-in culture vultures):

1. Museum Ludwig

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Ausstellungseröffnung “LUDWIG GOES POP”, Laufzeit der Ausstelung 02.10.2014 – 11.01.2015Foto: Rheinisches Bildarchiv /Museum Ludwig/Kim Pottkämper

Posted by Museum Ludwig Köln on Thursday, October 9, 2014

Cologne’s answer to The Tate Modern or MoMa, Museum Ludwig represents the most important trends in art from the beginning of the 20th century to today. It is home to one of the largest collections of Pop Art in Europe and its dynamic program offers internationally-acclaimed exhibitions, regular lectures and a weekly film forum.

2. Gerhard Richter in Cologne Cathedral

Das wunderschöne Fenster von Gerhard Richter. #köln pic.twitter.com/Ej45bVPQ38

— Leo (@l3ocat) October 14, 2014

Cologne's Gothic cathedral houses a huge work from Germany’s most famous living artist: Gerhard Richter. In 2003, Richter was chosen to re-design the cathedral’s south-facing stained glass window.

The result is an impressive 113-metres squared abstract collage of 11,500 pixel-like glass squares in 72 colours that has to be seen to be believed.

3. Ebertplatz Passage

#cologne #köln #koeln #ebertplatzpassage #ebertplatz #gold+beton #goldundbeton #party

A photo posted by Chriska (@yourdailytoast) on May 16, 2014 at 5:41pm PDT

The underpass surrounding Ebertplatz subway station is home to several off-space galleries, like Tiefgarage, Gold und Beton, Labor Ebertplatz or Bruch & Dallas.

For the last few years, this relatively run-down area has striven to draw in a different crowd through the offering of arts and cultural events.

With underground concerts, buzzing parties and a feel for Cologne’s independent art-scene, Ebertplatz is where it’s at.

4. Temporary Gallery

Posted by Temporary Gallery on Friday, June 19, 2015

Since 2014 Temporary Gallery art hall has received city funding as a New Centre for Contemporary Art in Cologne. It regularly invites international curators and researchers for co-operative projects and offers a diverse range of shows and events which, explore and encourage the debate around contemporary art today.

5. King Georg

© Anna KallageAutor Stefan Weidner und Moderator Christian Werthschulte

Posted by Akademie der Künste der Welt / Köln on Monday, March 9, 2015

Formerly a house of ill repute, King Georg was taken over in 2008 and turned into a bar and concert venue.

Whilst its low-lit interior and leather-bolstered bar maintain a sense of smutty charm, the place has quickly become one of the city's best-loved hangouts.

A packed line-up of independent bands and local DJs make it the perfect spot to drink and dance the night away.

6. Gewölbe

Music of Mind #recondite #live #gewölbe #gewölbeköln #innervisions #blow #my #mind #absoluttechno

A photo posted by André (@andre_c.h.r) on May 3, 2015 at 4:18am PDT

If it’s international DJs that you’re looking for, then head to Gewölbe.

As well as having good connections to Cologne’s own Kompakt label, the club offers a consistent programme featuring top electronic acts from across the globe.

7. Bunker

#techno #underground #bunker #psychothrill #hot #sweat #adphl #djskudge #rave

A photo posted by audiophil_recordings (@adphl) on Feb 9, 2015 at 1:07pm PST

This unofficial party venue is the best spot in Cologne for underground techno.

It’s home to DJ Claus Bachor's, legendary ‘Psycho Thrill’ parties which have been providing Cologne partygoers with the grittiest sounds in techno & house since 1991.

Ask a local for directions.

8. Hochschule für Musik und Tanz Köln

Das Orchesterbüro der HfMT sucht ab 27.04.2015 eine studentische Hilfskraft im Umfang von 5 Stunden/Woche für die…

Posted by Hochschule für Musik und Tanz Köln on Monday, April 6, 2015

The Cologne School of Music and Dance, offers a busy programme of contemporary dance shows and modern classical music concerts which are given regularly by both students and touring musicians.

It’s an ideal venue to experience the latest shifts in modern music and dance.

9. Walther König

„Buchhandlung Walther König Köln (0637-39)“ by © Raimond Spekking / CC BY-SA 4.0 (via Wikimedia Commons).

First founded in Cologne in 1968, Walther König Book Store has a long-standing connection to the Cologne art scene.

Nowadays an international brand, the Cologne branch is still the best place in the city for affordable books on contemporary art and culture.

10. Van Dyck Coffee

Visited my favorite #roaster in Cologne! #vandyckkaffee – if you find yourself in #Ehrenfeld or Cologne it is worth a stay. If it's the exquisite #coffeebeans or the dazzling #cake Also got myself a nice #mexican bean which I will use for a nice #coldbrew this afternoon. #coffeelove #VanDyck #coffee #specialbeans

A photo posted by Philipp Rafler (@weneedmorepr) on Jul 7, 2015 at 7:53am PDT

This award-winning coffee bar and roastery is Cologne’s response to the third-wave caffeine hype. Head here for flawless flat whites, made from a selection of in-store roasted beans.

Cologne-based blogger Frederica Miller can be found at thisaintberlin or on Twitter.

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What's considered a good salary for foreigners in Cologne and Düsseldorf?

North Rhine-Westphalia is Germany’s most populous state and home to several bustling cities, including Cologne, Düsseldorf, Bonn, Wuppertal and Dortmund to name just a few.

Although only around 30 minutes apart, Cologne and Düsseldorf have a long-standing (and mostly friendly) rivalry, with each city famously taking pops at the other during carnival celebrations. However, due to their close proximity, many people live in one and work in the other, or in the surrounding region.

Cologne is known for its historic and cultural offering with nearby nature, while Düsseldorf is famous for its fashion and arts scene.

Both cities on the Rhine river attract people from abroad looking to settle in Germany.

Of the just over one million people who live in Cologne, around 42 percent of all residents had a migration background in 2023, and around one in five Cologne residents was non-German (20.9 percent), according to city statistics released this year.

Düsseldorf is smaller, with about 640,000 residents. Around 164,000 people have a foreign background, according to Statista figures for 2022. The city is also known for its vibrant Japanese community, with around 8,400 Japanese nationals making it their home.

Cologne is home to a large mix of industries and sectors covering IT, media, life sciences and finance, while Düsseldorf is known for fashion, trade and the energy sector.

Some notable employers in the region include Bayer, Deutsche Telekom, Deloitte, Douglas, L’Oreal, Adidas, E-on and Trivago.

Although these are large and often multi-national companies, there are also plenty of smaller businesses and startups – many of which want to diversify their workplace and seek international talent.

People attend Japan Day in Düsseldorf in 2023.

People attend Japan Day in Düsseldorf in 2023. Photo: picture alliance/dpa | Henning Kaiser

What’s the average and median wage in Germany?

Firstly let’s look at the big picture. According to data published by Germany’s statistical office (Destatis), the average monthly salary across Germany in 2023 for full-time employees was €4,479. This corresponds to an annual salary of approximately €53,748 before tax.

The average is calculated by adding up all of the individual values and dividing this total by the total number of values.

Another way to look at this is through the median. It is calculated by taking the ‘middle’ value, the value for which half of the salaries – in this case – are larger and half are smaller. Is is often thought to give a more realistic picture.

According to career portal Stepstone’s 2024 report, the median gross salary in Germany is around €3,645 monthly, which works out at around €43,740 per year before tax.

But salaries in Germany differ significantly depending on where you live. For instance, there are major income differences between eastern and western states nearly 35 years after the fall of the Berlin Wall.

What can you expect in Cologne and Düsseldorf?

According to Stepstone’s analysis released at the start of 2024 and based on findings from November 2023, the median gross salary (before tax) for full-time employees in Cologne is €50,000 per year. It is placed fifth in a ranking of large German cities. Düsseldorf comes fourth, with a median gross salary for full-time employees of €50,750.

The top three-earning cities in Germany, by the way, are Munich, Stuttgart and Frankfurt am Main. Munich is the city where employees get the highest salaries in Germany, with a median wage of €56,000. Stuttgart follows with €54,500 and in Frankfurt the median gross salary is €54,250, according to the analysis.

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For a snapshot of how different salaries in Germany can be, the median salary in Schwerin, the capital of Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania, is €39,000, according to this analysis, while in Berlin it’s €46,500.

When it comes to the state of North Rhine-Westphalia as a whole, the median gross salary is €44,000. But people in management positions can earn around €73,750 and the median salary for academics is €56,500.

What’s left after tax?

Your gross salary (Bruttolohn) is your pay before taxes and deductions. So it’s important to think about what your salary will be after taxes (Nettolohn), which is what you’ll have left to spend.

Germany’s tax rate starts at 14 percent for people earning just over the €11,784 threshold, but most full-time workers can expect a tax rate of between 25 and 42 percent on earnings over the threshold. Your exact tax rate depends on how much you earn and other factors including your marital status and whether you have children or not.

You also have to pay social security contributions. As an employee, you pay a fixed percentage of your salary for social security membership, and your employer pays a fixed percentage as well. The amount you’ll pay will be split evenly between you and your employer.

Meanwhile, if you are a member of the church, you will pay church tax to the tax office.

Is cost of living high in Cologne and Düsseldorf?

There’s no doubt that high inflation following Russia’s full-scale invasion of Ukraine in 2022 has had an impact on most people’s lives in Germany. The cost of everyday goods and services have spiralled upwards, making activities like eating out a much more expensive business.

Compared to other German cities, Cologne and Düsseldorf are not the most expensive – but that’s not to say that they are cheap.

In this year’s Mercer Cost of Living survey, eight German cities were said to be among the 100 most expensive cities in the world, with Düsseldorf landing in the 51st spot. Berlin took the top spot as the most expensive German city, mainly due to the rising costs of renting an apartment in the capital.

Beer in Cologne

The iconic Cologne beer, the ‘Kölsch’. Photo: Carola68/Pixabay

According to cost of living site Numbeo, which compiles information from users and reputable sources, a single person in Cologne faces monthly costs of around €1,000 without rent, while a family of four’s living costs amount to about €3,425.

A one-bedroom apartment in the city centre could set you back around €1,000 per month, and about €790 outside of the centre of Cologne, according to these figures.

Meanwhile, a three-bedroom flat could be around €2,000 in a central location in Cologne, and about €1,300 in a less central zone.

In Düsseldorf, Numbeo found that a single person has monthly costs of about €1,044 without rent and a family of four could see living costs of €3,500.

For a one-bedroom flat in the centre of Düsseldorf, it could amount to around €918 per month and about €813 outside of the centre, according to these figures.

A three-bedroom flat in the city centre might set you back €1,900, and it could be about €1,465 on the outer zones.

Which jobs pay the most or the least in Germany?

Stepstone’s 2024 salary report for Germany lists median salaries for a number of professions which gives a picture of what you can expect in different industries.

According to the report, medical doctors earn the most with a gross median salary of €94,750 This means they earn more than twice as much as the national average.

Employees in the banking and finance sector, with €57,000 gross per year, and engineers with €56,000, are also among the top earners.

At the other end of the scale are retail, catering and hotel employees, with a gross median salary of around €35,500 per year.

Germany’s minimum wage (€12.41 per hour in 2024) amounts to about €26,000.

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