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‘Fashion is this big industry that can really do better’

The Local talks to US social entrepreneur Stefanie Smith about transparent fashion and why Sweden's startup scene is about more than just tech.

'Fashion is this big industry that can really do better'
Social entrepreneur Stefanie Smith. Photo: Elinor Magnusson

It was a combination of her interest in fashion and background studying social science that made Stefanie Smith jump on the offer when a friend asked for her help with a new clothing startup with a twist.

“The idea was to offer customers more transparent clothing for their children. There are a lot of organic and environmentally friendly alternatives around, but not much information about where the clothes actually come from. We hope to close that loophole,” the 28-year-old tells The Local.

Together with Maria Frank and Blerta Deliallisi she founded Pitupi, a slow-fashion children's clothing range which aims to create jobs for disadvantaged women in northern Albania. With Smith living in Lund, southern Sweden, and her co-founders based in Germany, much of the work is done online.

“We focused on Albania because Maria is married to an Albanian and Blerta is Albanian herself, so they had a lot of insight into social issues there and also the fashion industry,” says Smith.

The trio officially opened the digital doors to their webshop last week, after spending the past months selling the clothes from a small boutique in Malmö and via email orders.


Stefanie Smith with some of Pitupi's clothes. Photo: Private

It has been an exciting ride for the American – born and bred in Phoenix, Arizona – who, when she came to Sweden six years ago for university, had no idea she would end up sticking around, let alone add her name to the Nordic country's long list of startup entrepreneurs.

“I came here to do a master's programme at Lund University. I hadn't been to Sweden before and didn't know anyone, but it sounded like a cool adventure. And then, as I'm sure happens to a lot of expats, I met my 'sambo' [a Swedish word for a co-habiting partner]. So school brought me here and I guess love kept me,” she smiles.

Smith and her colleagues managed to set up Pitupi's small-scale clothing factory in a poor region of northern Albania with the help of a crowdfunding campaign, generous international donations and a lot of inspiration from the up-and-coming southern Swedish startup community.

“This is a really good place to start a business. There is understandably a lot of talk about Stockholm, but there's a lot of things going on in Lund and Malmö, incubators, accelerator programmes… you don't even have to go across the Öresund to Copenhagen,” says Smith.

While Swedes are quick to jump on health and eco-conscious trends, social responsibility issues have been comparatively slow to take hold in the world of fashion.

Several internationally famous clothing brands still have the majority of their items sown up inside industrial-size factories run by half-anonymous subsidiaries on the other side of the world. As a consumer, it is often tricky to find out exactly who made your garment and under what conditions they worked.

“Social initiatives are in our fabric in the US, we don't have the same dependency on the state [as in Sweden] so grassroots initiatives have a bigger effect. (…) But people are going past just wanting clean and honest food options to also wanting to know more about what goes into their iPhone, who makes their furniture and so on,” says Smith.

“We're closing all of these loopholes in this big industry that can really do better.”

With Pitupi, she and her co-founders strive to increase this transparency and social responsibility. Not only does it focus on environmental sustainability, but also the social impact of fashion. All items are signed by the seamstress, and customers can then read her story on the website as well as a financial breakdown of the cost of the garment.

“Say you want a hat. You can then click on the specifications to read about everything, including the origin of the material, the labour cost, how much they're making,” explains Smith. “And if customers have more questions they can contact us and we can find out. (…) We can't support the women by ourselves, so we have to listen to the customers.”

The production is based in a northern Albanian village called Krajn and aims to empower women and help them become financially independent, so that they do not fall victim to forced prostitution, domestic violence or other hardships. The long-term goal is to use future revenue to train the seamstresses to take over management of the workshop.


Entela, one of Pitupi's seamstresses. Photo: Pitupi Clothing

Smith says that the response from customers in their focus markets Sweden and Germany, and the US and UK, has so far been positive. And she is confident that the growing interest in transparent slow fashion – as opposed to big business production – will help social entrepreneurs such as herself thrive.

“I sometimes find the focus on tech when people talk about startups frustrating,” she admits.

“It's great, but it's important to remember that it's not just the big IT stuff that's going to have an impact on Sweden – there are a lot of small-scale initiatives that are just as valuable.”

For members

WORKING IN SWEDEN

Five things you need to do right away if you’re getting laid off in Sweden

Facing a layoff in Sweden? Here are the key things you should do right away.

Five things you need to do right away if you're getting laid off in Sweden

Employment levels in Sweden have been quite volatile in 2023 and 2024, with several major companies in the country announcing significant layoffs. On September 9th, Northvolt became the latest company to announce it would be reducing its workforce.

In early August, the Swedish Labour Ministry announced that the country was facing its highest unemployment rate in a decade, excluding the pandemic period.

This economic landscape has left many workers uncertain about their job security.

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And while receiving a layoff notice is undeniably stressful for anyone, this stress is often magnified for foreigners who may not be completely familiar with the Swedish employment system and their workplace rights.

Without proper knowledge, you might agree to terms that aren’t in your best interest. This can, in turn, lead to decisions that could have long-term career consequences.

The Local has consulted experts in the field to compile an overview of the critical actions you should take if you ever face a layoff in Sweden.

Don’t rush to sign anything

Amanda Herzog, founder of Intertalents in Sweden, a consultancy that helps international job seekers find their dream job in the country, published a popular post on LinkedIn Pulse in December 2023 with multiple excellent tips for workers regarding the Swedish layoff process.

She told The Local Sweden that her recommendations still stand in mid-2024, permitting us to re-share her tips, and pointed to some of the more important ones.

“Never, ever sign a termination agreement on the same day you receive the news,” Herzog advised, noting that the emotional shock can cloud your judgment.

  • Don’t miss any of The Local’s stories about working in Sweden by downloading our app (available on Apple and Android) and then selecting Working in Sweden in your Notification options via the User button

Instead, find a union immediately, preferably the same day, to get a second opinion on the terms and conditions.

“During my first layoff, I joined a union and sought advice the same day. It took a week to accept their terms, which worked in my favour as the company was keen on a voluntary headcount reduction,” Herzog shared.

Contact a labour or immigration lawyer (if you’re on a work permit)

Losing your job affects your right to stay in Sweden if you’re on a work permit.

You typically have three months to find a new job and submit a work permit application with your new employer (The Local has a more detailed article on the layoff implications on your work permit, which you can find here).

However, Saaya Sorrells-Weatherford, co-founder of the relocation consultancy Emigreat, told The Local that as a foreigner, you might not be familiar with the nuances of the Swedish employment system and could agree to terms that shorten your stay in Sweden.

“If you are given your termination notice, contact a labour or immigration lawyer immediately,” she said.

Consulting with a lawyer ensures you understand your rights and work through facts and applicable regulations, not word-of-mouth anecdotes.

Negotiate your severance, use leverage

Herzog also singled out several necessary actions that workers who are about to be laid off need to consider regarding severance contracts.

“Severance contracts can be negotiated,” Herzog emphasised.

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Nothing is final until you sign the agreement. The company might present the decision as final, but you have leverage.

“A union process can be time-consuming for the company and may not end in their favour,” Herzog said.

Use this to your advantage to negotiate better terms.

“I was able to negotiate a raise during my first layoff, even though I would no longer be working, as well as negotiated two extra working months from the termination date.

“This meant I had seven months total of future salary coming to me. I was also able to negotiate a free cell phone and laptop that I was using at work,” she noted.

Get recommendations early – and build a portfolio of your work

Asking your coworkers for recommendation letters and LinkedIn recommendations before your last day is imperative.

“People forget and move on and are less responsive when they no longer see you daily,” Herzog said.

So, make sure to secure these endorsements while your contributions are still fresh in their minds.

Furthermore, you should compile a portfolio of your work as soon as possible.

Companies can restrict access to files and systems post-layoff, making it crucial to collect relevant data while you still can.

“Start collecting work samples, case studies, photos, results, and important contacts in the same week you receive the news,” Herzog suggested.

Ensure that your layoff is being handled properly

Make sure your layoff is handled appropriately and legally.

“One of my layoffs was mishandled, and I used union support to hold the company accountable,” Herzog recalled.

While legal advice can be expensive, it’s far more affordable than fighting deportation, Sorrells-Weatherford told The Local.

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