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Circus Maximus reopens as Rome frets over vandals

A section of Rome's Circus Maximus, the ancient venue for chariot racing, will be reopened to the public Thursday after seven years of renovation.

Circus Maximus reopens as Rome frets over vandals
The Circo Massimo after its restoration and reopening. File photo: Andreas Solaro/AFP

The long-awaited move comes amid mounting concerns about how the Eternal City can protect its unrivalled collection of churches, fountains and other historic landmarks.

The issue has been catapulted to the top of new mayor Virginia Raggi's agenda after one of the city's most famous pieces of public sculpture, Bernini's Elephant and Obelisk, was vandalized earlier this week.

Raggi, a member of the populist Five Star Movement, said she could not envisage works like Bernini's elephant being put behind barriers.

“But we have to put better surveillance in place and try to promote a greater sense of civic responsibility,” she said at the inauguration ceremony for the renovated Circus Maximus.

“It is important to have give such a beautiful spot back to the city,” she said of the renovated section.

Some 600m long and 140m wide, the Circus Maximus was a place where the elite of ancient Rome came to relax, mingle with the masses and put aside political differences, according to Marialetizia Buonfiglio, the archaeologist who oversaw the renovation.

'Bread and circuses'

Races between the Reds and the Blues thrilled the crowds of a population that, in the words of the satirical poet Juvenal, needed only “bread and circuses” to keep them happy.

Long abandoned after the fall of Rome, the area became a residential neighbourhood known as La Moletta but was cleared of its inhabitants under the regime of Fascist dictator Benito Mussolini in the 1930s.

Only the northwest part of the original circus has been restored with the bulk of it still underground, said Buonfiglio, who hopes it all might see the light again one day.

Bernini's elephant, located in the Piazza della Minerva near the Pantheon, had part of one of its tusks broken off in the early hours of Monday. Police have not yet been able to establish how the damage occurred but believe it was either deliberately broken off or was damaged during a late-night game of football.

Gian Lorenzo Bernini oversaw the sculpture of the pachyderm under a commission from 17th Century pope Alexander VII to provide a support for a recently-discovered ancient Egyptian obelisk.

The damage to the elephant comes after fans of Dutch football club Feyenoord caused outrage in February 2015 by damaging a Bernini fountain that stands at the bottom of Rome's fabled Spanish Steps.

The Steps themselves were recently the subject of a debate as to whether they should be locked up at night following their recent renovation.

Thousands of residents and visitors sit on the steps every evening and some leave reminders of their presence in the form of beer bottles, chewing gum and graffiti.

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CULTURE

Updated: What is Italy’s Palio di Siena and where can you watch it?

Italy's hotly-anticipated Palio di Siena horse race is back - but what exactly is it and where can you watch it?

Updated: What is Italy's Palio di Siena and where can you watch it?

The renowned Palio di Siena horse race returns on Saturday, August 17th, with jockeys racing it out in Tuscany’s medieval jewel, Siena.

With origins dating back to 1633, the Palio di Siena is Italy’s most famous historic horse race.

The event is a competition between the neighbourhoods of Siena, called contrade, with each contrada having its own coat of arms and patron saints. There are 17 contrade in Siena, but only 10 compete – this year’s competitors are; Chiocciola, Oca, Istrice, Selva, Lupa, Valdimontone, Onda, Nicchio, Leocorno and Civetta.

It occurs twice a year in Siena’s main square, Piazza del Campo. The first race took place this summer on July 2nd. Each Palio lasts a total of four days; three days of celebrations and the final day being the race itself.

The race consists of three laps of Piazza del Campo. The starting point (the mossa), is made up of two ropes in which the 10 participating horses and jockeys must wait in order. The horse, with or without a jockey, which completes the three laps first wins.

The prize is a large silk-painted canvas, known as the drappellone, which is designed and created every year by a different artist.

Over the centuries, the race has only been cancelled a handful of times, including for World War II and the Covid pandemic. 

In recent years the Palio has been the subject of protest from animal rights groups who state that the horses suffer during the competition. Preliminary investigations into a defamation trial began at the start of June this year, after Walter Caporale, the national president of animal rights group Animalisti Italiani (Italian Animalists) was accused of defining the event’s organisers as “sadistic and uncivilised.” The next hearing is set for February 28th 2025. 

The final race this year was supposed to take place on Friday, 16th August but it was cancelled due to heavy rain.

Watch the Palio di Siena live on television or via streaming on Italian channel LA7 from 4.45pm on Saturday.

Are you tuning in to the Palio di Siena? Let us know what you think about it in the comments below.

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