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Vienna marks centenary of artistic golden era

Vienna is marking 100 years since the death of a string of luminaries from its fin-de-siecle glory days with an avalanche of exhibitions of modernist art, design and architecture that still inspire and shock today.

Vienna marks centenary of artistic golden era
Visitors walk past a painting titled "Venus in the Grotto" by Austrian artist Koloman Moser during the exhibition at the Leopold Museum titled "Vienna 1900!" Photo: AFP

The year 1918 did not only mark defeat in World War I and the end of the Austro-Hungarian empire but also saw artists Gustav Klimt, Egon Schiele and Koloman Moser and architect Otto Wagner pass away.

Klimt died from a stroke at 55, an infection claimed Wagner's life at 76 and cancer killed Moser aged 50. Schiele survived being conscripted into the war only to die in the Spanish flu pandemic, three days after his pregnant wife Edith. He was just 28.

All were leading lights in the revolutions in art, literature, architecture, psychology, philosophy and music that made the imperial city on the Danube the buzzing intellectual hub of the world at the time.

“It was a unique collision of all forms of art and science — the literature of Hofmannsthal, the atonal music of Schönberg, psychoanalysis with Freud and even economics with Schumpeter,” Hans-Peter Wipplinger, director of the Leopold Museum, told AFP.

“Vienna was not always a trend setter, but always good at making something special out of something which already existed,” said art historian Alexandra Brauner. “We made something really special out of it.”

Stairway to Klimt

The Leopold kicked off the anniversary year this week with the first of its six special exhibitions — in Vienna and around there are around 20 — focusing on Klimt, Moser as well as Richard Gerstl and Oskar Kokoschka.

It also showcases examples of classic 1900-era design such as furniture, artisan craftwork and posters created by Moser and others in the Wiener Werkstätte community of artists that he co-founded.

From February a special Leopold show shines the light on Schiele, whose tortured eroticism still causes blushes to this day — as witnessed by the prudish covering up of genitals on advertising posters in London last year.

The Museum of Applied Arts (MAK) will from December 19 show off some of its Wiener Werkstätte treasures and from May 30 looks at the influence of Wagner's influence on contemporaries, pupils and subsequent generations of
architects and designers.

The Kunsthistorisches Museum will next month erect again its “Stairway to Klimt” allowing visitors to examine up close some of the works painted by the artist between the pillars and arches of the building early in his career.

Nazi looters

The Bank Austria Kunstforum will explore Japanese influences, the Jewish Museum will from May hark back to the artistic salons of the time, while the Klimt Villa will look into the looting of many works by the Nazis and what
happened later.

Vienna's thriving Jewish community were big drivers in the city's flourishing intellectual, scientific and artistic scene, not least in buying up artworks to fill their homes.

In his later years Klimt's studio had “two separate entrances. One for models who would then wait in an antechamber, often with next to no clothes on, and another for his rich customers,” said Baris Alakus, director of the
Klimt Villa.

By 1918, Vienna was already starting to be eclipsed, and 20 years later Hitler — rejected as a young man by the Vienna Academy of Fine Arts — annexed his native country, first robbing and then destroying the Jewish population.

The postwar restitution of artworks to their former owners' descendants, now spread around the globe, has been tortuous and in some cases incomplete, with many paintings controversially ending up in state hands.

It took until 1998 for the Austrian parliament to pass a law allowing some 10,000 works to be returned.

In one of the biggest cases, five Klimt masterpieces were returned in 2006 to the descendant of the Jewish family they were stolen from after a legal battle with Austria's Belvedere Museum.

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Five unusual cafes in Vienna you should not miss out on

In the mood for a coffee inside an elevator, surrounded by cats, or served by an Austrian grandmother? Here are five of Vienna's most interesting cafés that you should not miss out on.

Five unusual cafes in Vienna you should not miss out on

Vienna is known for its rich coffeehouse culture, with elegant cafes serving traditional brews in grand settings.

But beyond the classic spots, the city is also home to a range of quirky and unusual cafes offering unique experiences for those looking to explore something different. From eccentric decor to themed menus, these hidden gems add a playful twist to Vienna’s famous coffee scene.

Whether you’re a local or a visitor, these cafes provide a refreshing break from the ordinary, offering not just coffee, but a chance to step into a world of creativity and charm.

Here’s a look at some of Vienna’s most intriguing spots to enjoy a drink with a difference.

Café Neko

This is the place to go if you want to pet some cute cats while enjoying a coffee or cake.

You will find Café Neko – which means cat in Japanese – in a cute street in Vienna’s city centre, and once you enter, you will be greeted by the café’s five resident cats. 

In addition to cat petting, you can enjoy a wide range of coffees and Austrian and Japanese cakes since one of the co-owners is from Japan. 

The café opened in 2012 and is Austria’s first cat café and one of the first ones in Europe.

Here, you can enjoy a cosy atmosphere, surrounded by cats playing with their toys spread around the rooms.

Find out more about the café here.

 
 
 
 
 
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A post shared by Takako Ishimitsu (@cafenekovienna)

READ ALSO: Caffeine, war and Freud: A history of Vienna’s iconic coffee houses

Aufzug café

Are you a fan of old Austrian elevators? If so, this is a place worth visiting. 

Here, you can drink your coffee while sitting in one of the cafe’s old elevators. The staff serving you are also dressed as old-time elevator porters. 

You can enjoy high-quality coffee, different drinks and some cakes.

Due to the size of the space, the menu is quite simple, but the coffee and cakes are known for their good quality.

The café is also a bit of a museum, with elevator-related attributes, books about elevators, and photos of old Austrian elevators, sometimes with an explanatory text next to them.

Read more about it here

 
 
 
 
 
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A post shared by Erstes Wiener Aufzug Café (@aufzug.cafe)

Allergikercafé

If you have problems with allergies or are on a strict diet, this is the place where you can enjoy your drinks, cakes, and snacks without any issues.

Here, you can order cakes or pastries without fructose, low in histamine, or without additives, to name a few examples.

You can also find various types of milk for your drink, such as rice or almond milk.

The café uses ingredients that minimise the risk of cross-contamination to ensure that its pastries are suitable for people with specific dietary needs.

The setting is cosy and friendly, and the café has a terrace.

Check out the menu here

 
 
 
 
 
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A post shared by AllergikerCafe (@allergikercafe)

READ MORE: How to drink coffee like an Austrian

Vollpension

This café is one of Vienna’s most famous ones. It was created to support the city’s elderly by providing them with a sense of community, a weekly activity, and an opportunity to earn extra money.

The idea turned out to be a success, and the concept is seen as a win-win situation for both the employees and the visitors, as the cosy café offers delicious cakes, coffee, and drinks.

While visiting the café, you usually pay for a package and can thereby sit in the cosy atmosphere for a certain amount of time. During this time, you can enjoy as much coffee as you want together with your cake.

Vollpension Café has two locations in Vienna and, in addition to the many different cakes and drinks, also offers breakfast.

If you get inspired by the pastries, you can take a baking class at the café, which is regularly organised.

Find out more here

Karin Hofbauer, 62, bakes for Vollpension, and smiles as she shows a baking tray in front of a laptop. (Photo by JOE KLAMAR / AFP)

Café Phil

You should go here if you do not want to visit only a café but also a bookstore and vinyl shop.

You can enjoy coffee and cake here while looking through many books and vinyl records.

The café often hosts cultural events such as book readings and live music gigs and is where people in Vienna gather regularly.

The atmosphere is familiar, and the menu includes light dishes and snacks in addition to coffee and cakes.

You can read more about it here

 
 
 
 
 
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READ NEXT: IN PICTURES: The Vienna coffee shop where phone-less visitors get a discount

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