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FOOD AND DRINK

Why do the French love saucisson so much?

Cheese and wine may be quintessentially French to the rest of the world, but the Gallic amour for cured, salty pork sticks or saucisson, is just as strong and timeless.

Why do the French love saucisson so much?
There's something about this salty snack that's special. Photo: Saucisson/Depositphotos

It’s official. The first Saucisson World Cup will be held in the tiny village of Vanosc in Ardèche,southern France this June. And who cares?

Well, in a matter of days organizers have received just as many applications to be part of the tasting jury as there are villagers in Vanosc.

“It's going to be chockablock! We’ve received 600 requests from tasters aged 12 to 92,” René-Louis Thomas, head of The Ardèche Academy of Sausage Lovers, told French daily Le Parisien.

France is of course the perfect place to host a Saucisson World Cup given that some 2.2 kilos of saucisson are said to be munched each second in France, which adds up to a total of 70,000 tonnes a year.

So why is it that the saucisson is such a simmering sensation in the hearts and taste buds of people of all ages in France?

Tradition

Saucisson, which gets in name from salsus (salty in Latin) has been made in France since Roman times, with archaeological finds proving so.

According to geography and gastronomy academic Jean-Robert Pitte, cured sausage is a “living historical monument” and a symbol for France since the time of the Great War.

“It was the source of bonding for soldiers in the trenches,” said Pitte about how saucisson would be chopped up and dealt around French troops in WWI. “It was probably the last pleasure for many fallen soldiers.”

For Thomas, saucisson’s symbolism is even older: “It forms part of the traditional Epinal image (19th century illustrations): the beret, the baguette, the Camembert and the sausage”.

Social snack

In the same way as saucisson strengthened the brotherhood between soldiers in the trenches, the tradition of sharing these salty spoils with loved ones and friends lives on to this day.

“For me, the popularity of saucisson stems from its strong association with the apéro (appetizer),” French food writer Clotilde Dusoulier told The Local.

“It’s that special moment at the end of the day when you get together with mates for a drink and some nibbles, to unwind and catch up.

“It feels festive and fun, like a carefree moment taken from a busy day.”

Guilty pleasure

When in 2015 the World Health Organization labeled processed meats like the sauccisson as carcinogenic as smoking and drinking, the reaction in France was nonchalant at best, if not one of complete disdain.

“I survived the war, I’m not going to give up saucisson!”, An 83-year-old Frenchman told The Local at the time.

“I'll stop drinking alcohol and smoking if needs be, but I could never give up meat as it's essential to my diet,” a butcher in the 19th arrondisement added.

And so it is that despite the health warnings from the WHO that eating read meat can cause cancer, the French would rather enjoy the sumptuous salty taste of cured and smoked pork and die with a smile on their faces.

“If it gives you cancer then so be it. I could never live without it,” Maxime, a 21-year-old student in Paris, concluded.

Easy eating

However lazy you’re feeling vis-à-vis preparing something to eat, slicing up some saucisson is as easy as it comes.

There aren’t that many foods either that can be so easily carried around in you pocket or bag without making a complete mess, thanks largely to the natural pig fat wrapping most of them come with.

What’s more, saucisson keeps for ages!

 “There are many varieties of saucisson in France because, like cheese, it’s an age-old way to preserve food from the time when there was no refrigeration,” food blogger Clotilde Dusoulier explains.

“Fresh meat goes off but charcuterie like saucisson keeps for months. “

Simply irresistible

Even vegetarians might at times admit to missing the salty, full-flavoured body of cured ham.

Perfected with passion over the centuries, French saucisson is a world on its own.

“Each region independently came up with its own ideas of seasonings depending on what’s available locally in terms of herbs, nuts, etc,” Dusoulier describes.

However many varieties, all saucissons have one thing in common, their ability to calm the most rumbling of bellies, satisfy our protein cravings and on many occasions, be the perfect partner for a lovely glass of wine.

Tomas Hulley/Flickr

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FOOD AND DRINK

9 delicious French dishes to try this summer

It’s almost impossible to imagine a ‘bad time’ for food lovers in France – summer certainly isn’t one, with a huge range of fresh, flavourful and light produce easily available. Here’s a few of our favourites.

9 delicious French dishes to try this summer

Salade niçoise

Summer is the season of salads and seafood in France. Which brings us immediately to arguably the most classic of French summer classic dishes, traditionally made with tomatoes and anchovies, dressed with olive oil.

All the extra stuff you’ll see in a modern version – hard-boiled eggs, olives, lettuce, green beans, tuna were added later and French people can get quite agitated over the question of potatoes in a salade niçoise.

Speaking of . . .

Pan bagnat

A pan bagnat is, basically, salad niçoise in sandwich form. But the secret to a proper pan bagnat is in the bread. It’s a traditional, rustic sandwich made using stale bread that has been refreshed by a trickle of water.

The clue is in the name – it literally means ‘bathed bread’. And a proper pan bagnat can only come from and use ingredients from Provence. Otherwise it’s just a (mostly) vegetable sandwich.

Tomates farcies

Potagers up and down France have tomato plants in them right now, and they’re all – hopefully – giving good fruit. Enter the many stuffed tomato recipes to cope with the glut. Expect variations on a sausage meat, onions, garlic, salt-and-pepper theme.

Of course, a simple tomato salad (perhaps with a little cheese and a sprinkle of basil) is also a joy to behold.

Flan de courgette

As it is with tomatoes, so it is with courgettes. Gardeners the length and breadth of France are wondering what to do with the sheer mass of fruit their plants are giving out.

The simple and delicious courgette flan covers many a base – and also incorporates French cuisine favourites ham and cheese. Usually served warm.

Ratatouille

It’s probably illegal not to mention the famously rustic ratatouille in any piece about French summer recipes.

The dish you probably know – with tomatoes, courgettes, aubergines, pepper and garlic – is from Provence. But there are variation on this vegetable stew that you’ll find across the Mediterranean arc – think piperade, from southwest France, bohémienne, from Vaucluse, or chichoumeille, from Languedoc. 

They’re all delicious and they’ll all give you your five-a-day.

Tarte au chèvre et au concombre

Cucumbers are typical salad fare. They can be added to drinks, used to make chilled soups and detox cocktails. But you can also cook with them. Seek out a recipe for goat’s cheese and cucumber tart.

Vichyssoise

A chilled soup, perfect on a summer’s day, with a French name, created by a French chef. This chilled leek-and-potato soup actually first appeared, around 1910, as a dish at the Ritz-Carlton hotel in New York. But it has its basis in France. The chef who created it, Louis Félix Diat, said that it was inspired by his mother, who taught him how to cook. 

Chilled soups are a great bet on a hot day and you’ll see dozens of variations on menus, from cucumber to melon via variations on gazpacho (which is Spanish but the French very sensibly embrace it).

Tapenade

Black olives, garlic, anchovies, capers, olive oil. A blender. And you’ve got a delicious, simple ‘tartiner’ for a slice of toast or crusty bread. Try it. You’ll thank us.

Moules à la crème

Shellfish and summer go hand in glove. Moules-frites are hugely popular, with good reason.

But this summer moules recipe is, despite the creaminess, a little lighter overall. As always, there are always regional variations on a theme – do look out for moules à la normande, in particular.

What’s your favourite French dish on a hot day? Share your recommendations in the comments section below

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