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Welcome to Barga, the most Scottish town in Tuscany

This pretty town in the Tuscan hills is famous for music, architecture - and fish and chips. The town's strong Scottish connections go back to the turn of the last century.

Welcome to Barga, the most Scottish town in Tuscany
The historic centre of Barga, Tuscany. Photo: Clare Speak/The Local

High in the Tuscan hills, surrounded by lush forest and looking out over the valleys of the Apuan Alps, sits the beautiful 10th-century walled town of Barga.

At first glance, its winding cobbled streets and red-roofed villas give Barga the appearance of many other picture-perfect hilltop towns in northern Tuscany. But if you spend a bit of time here you’ll soon realise that this is a town unlike any other.

Barga quite literally has a strong Scottish accent. And for three weeks in summer, this time from July 27th to August 16th, the town hosts a festival dedicated to its favourite dish – fish and chips.

Fish and chips at the festival in Barga, Tuscany. Photo: Clare Speak/The Local

Every evening at the Sagra del pesce e patate, billed as a celebration of “traditional Scottish fish’n’chips”, around 300 people enjoy a fish supper at trestle tables set up on the local sports field.

The festival has now been going for 37 years. Organisers told The Local that hungry visitors get through about a tonne of chips and even more fish every year.

For anyone not tempted by fried fish, there’s also pasta and grilled meat on the menu. And there are typical Italian desserts, plus coffee, and beer – though some locals prefer a glass of Chianti with their deep-fried dinner.

Italian chefs preparing fish and chips at the festival in Barga, Tuscany. Photo: Clare Speak/The Local

READ ALSO: Nine delicious Italian summer delicacies you have to taste

The fresh cod is fried in home-made beer batter in a makeshift kitchen set up inside the sports stadium. While the chips are sadly of the frozen variety, and there are no mushy peas, they do provide malt vinegar and there’s hopeful talk of adding pickled onions next year.

It definitely makes a change from the usual offerings at sagre, or food festivals, held in countless towns and villages all over Tuscany.

But Scottishness among the town’s 10,000 inhabitants runs far deeper than just an affinity for battered cod – or the fact that the surrounding hills and mountains are curiously reminiscent of the Scottish Highlands.

Barga prides itself on being “the most Scottish place in Italy”. It‘s twinned with East Lothian and Italians here speak English – and in some cases, also Italian – with an accent you’d normally expect to hear on the west coast of Scotland. In fact, many of the town’s residents say they, or their parents, were born and raised in the Glasgow area.

People enjoying fish and chips at the festival. Photo: Clare Speak/The Local

Many say the connection goes back to the turn of the 19th century, when large numbers of people struggling to find work in Tuscany decided to emigrate.

One story goes that a group of local forestry workers were hired by the visiting Duke of Argyll to work on his Scottish estates. They took their families with them, and more followed. Some eventually opened Italian-style ice cream parlours, as well as fish and chip shops.

Eventually, many of these Scots-Italians made return trips to Barga and nearby, and some stayed, cementing the connection and bringing a little taste of Scotland to Tuscany.

READ ALSO: Why Arezzo should be the next town you visit in Tuscany

The town regularly hosts Scottish weddings complete with kilts and bagpipies, and a new event taking place in September honours the closeness of the two communities.

Barga’s Scottish Week is set to take over the historic centre from September 3-9 with music, markets and cultural events.

A view of the mountains from outside Barga’s cathedral. Photo: Clare Speak/The Local

The town hosts various other food festivals, and a well-known jazz festival in mid-August. There’s also an antiques fair on the second Sunday of every month, when the pretty historic centre is filled with stalls, piled high with vintage furniture and knick-knacks.

Whenever you visit, Barga is a gorgeous Tuscan town with sights including a Romanesque cathedral dating from the 11th century, and Barga Castle, perched dramatically upon a ridge.

Its historic centre has panoramic views of the dramatic, mountainous landscape, especially from the gardens known as the ‘Arringo’, found next to the cathedral.

READ ALSO: The Tuscan festival that celebrates vintage cycling and wine

Barga is not the only town in Italy to have a strong link to Scotland. Gurro, a small village in the Italian Alps, was populated by Scottish soldiers 500 years ago, who made a mark on the local culture that still endures today.

TRAVEL NEWS

Aarhus Airport to get easier connections with new code-sharing deal

Passengers travelling from Aarhus Airport using Scandinavian airline SAS are likely to find more convenient onwards connections from September.

Aarhus Airport to get easier connections with new code-sharing deal

Convenient connections to European hub airports in Amsterdam and Paris will become easier to find from Aarhus Airport from September.

A code-sharing agreement between Scandinavian airline SAS and Air France, KLM Royal Dutch Airlines and Delta Air Lines means that flight codes from those airlines – and more efficient connections via Copenhagen – will appear at Aarhus, the Jutland airport said in a press release on Tuesday.

The agreement gives Aarhus Airport passengers access to over 1,000 European destinations through so-called SkyTeam network.

For example, the code-sharing networks cuts journey times from Aarhus (via Copenhagen) to Amsterdam Schiphol to 2 hours 50 minutes, and to Paris CDG to 3 hours and 50 minutes.

“We are becoming more global. With only 30 minutes’ driving time from Aarhus, people in the region can save a huge amount of time flying from Aarhus Airport to an impressive number of Air France, KLM or SkyTeam destinations,” the airport’s director Lotta Sandsgaard said in the press release.

The agreement “has great significance for the international business environment in the Aarhus region and in a tourism perspective for a booming sector by attracting travellers from European and overseas markets,” she added.

The SK flight code, one of the codes which will be used at Aarhus under the agreement, is operated by Air France and KLM from their respective hubs. This means destinations including Marseille, Bordeaux, Nantes, Porto, Newcastle, Southampton, Cardiff, Venice and Naples as well as Marrakesh, Tunis and Casablanca in North Africa can be booked.

Destinations including Las Vegas, Denver, Seattle, Orlando, Cincinnati, Montreal, Vancouver, Detroit and Salt Lake City and more can also be booked with Air France and KLM to and from Aarhus Airport.

Travellers in Aarhus will also see new connections between SAS and Delta-operated flights to dozens of destinations across the USA and Canada via Delta’s North American network. The deal means they can travel to these destinations with one check-in at Aarhus Airport’s SAS counter.

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