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‘We’re really feeling their absence’: Amalfi Coast braces for a summer without US tourists

With its white and multicoloured houses perched on the mountainside above the crystalline waters of the Mediterranean, Italy's Amalfi coast is an ideal holiday location – but it is suffering.

'We're really feeling their absence': Amalfi Coast braces for a summer without US tourists
Beaches in Amalfi are emptier than usual this year. Photo: Filippo Monteforte/AFP

The beauty of the villages of Sorrento, Positano and Amalfi is world famous, but today the normally bustling streets are practically empty. With fewer boats bobbing around the harbour and no traffic jams on the coast road leading to the villages, it has an air of low season.

The problem is a lack of visitors, particularly from across the Atlantic. The ongoing Covid-19 pandemic means that tourists from the United States – where cases continue to rise – are not currently allowed into Europe.

READ ALSO: Italy's latest travel rules, explained

“In previous years we had 80 percent foreign tourists, and half of those were from North America,” the head of the local tourist association, Andrea Ferraioli, told AFP.

Agricultural union Coldiretti estimated that their absence will cost the Italian economy €1.8 billion ($2 billion) this summer. Some 13 percent of Italy's GDP comes from tourism, a key driver of jobs in the country.


Photo: Filippo Monteforte/AFP

On the Amalfi coast near Naples most of the small family businesses only opened in early June due to Italy's long lockdown, while the region's many luxury hotels only opened this month.

Perched on the rocks in Positano and with a spectacular sea view, Le Agavi hotel welcomed its first guests on July 1st. But greeting them were only half its usual 110 employees.

“We had exceptional occupancy last year, around 93 percent, but now we're at around 60-65 percent,” said owner Giovanni Capilongo.

IN NUMBERS: How important are American tourists to Italy?

But reservations were in from tourists from the United States, Canada and Australia for September and October, Capilongo said.

“They account for [on average] 82 percent of our guests and we hope that the market can take off again,” as international flights resume, he said. Hotel operators hope that since the season started late, it may continue longer into November.

Meanwhile, Italians who usually account for only five to seven percent of guests are today the majority.

Photo: Filippo Monteforte/AFP

Among them were tourists Mario Bocci and his Brazilian wife Elisabeth De Assis, who said they usually go abroad on holiday.

“So many foreigners come to Italy, but we Italians don't make the most of its beauty. We've rediscovered it,” Bocci said.

READ ALSO: Most Italians want American tourists to stay away this summer: poll

A handful of tourists were making the most of the balmy early evening with a cocktail at Positano's Palazzo Murat, an early 19th century architectural jewel. Although only around a quarter of the hotel's rooms are filled during the week, the hotel manages 80 to 90 percent occupancy at the weekend, “with lots of Italians,” said co-owner Tanina Vanacore.

US tourists have flocked to Positano – where colourful cliffside homes overlook the clear blue waters – for decades, Vanacore said.

“Americans gave Positano its grandeur and today we're really feeling their absence.”

Photo: Filippo Monteforte/AFP

Despite the challenges for those in the industry, the few visitors appeared to be enjoying themselves, without the usual crush of tourists.

“I feel very lucky to be here when there's nobody,” said London doctor Ravi Solanki, 27. “I can enjoy the village and everything it offers, almost like it's my own.”

READ ALSO: The parts of Italy where fewest tourists go

Generally, smaller businesses have slashed their prices to compete, but luxury hotels have only slightly reduced prices, so as not to devalue the services.

Other businesses like cruise operators have had to adapt as well, said Andrea Russo, sales manager for luxury cruise specialist Plaghia Charter. “We try to offer more accessible services,” she said, such as small group excursions at €60.

Today's tourists lack the larger budgets of US tourists, who don't hesitate to spend €1,200 a day for a 12-metre boat, she said.


Photo: Filippo Monteforte/AFP

The lack of US tourists has even altered working hours for restaurant staff, who begin serving dinner for foreigners in the early evening.

“At 9:30 [pm] there's nobody left at table,” said Armando Gambardella, owner of the Da Armandino restaurant in Praiano.

“With Italians, it's the opposite, they go for their siesta 6:30 to 7:00 and start eating at 9:00!”

By AFP's Céline Cornu

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STRIKES

What to expect from Italy’s nationwide rail strike this weekend

Train passengers in Italy may face disruption on Saturday, July 6th and Sunday, July 7th as staff at railway operators including Trenitalia and Italo plan a 24-hour strike.

What to expect from Italy's nationwide rail strike this weekend

Passengers travelling across Italy by train may face delays or cancellations this weekend as staff at state-owned railway operator Ferrovie dello Stato, which includes Trenitalia, Trenord and Trenitalia Tper, and private company Italo plan to strike from 9pm on Saturday, July 6th, to 9pm Sunday, July 7th, for a total of 24 hours. 

The walkout was called by three of Italy’s major transport unions in late May to demand better working conditions and an improvement of workplace safety protocols.

The protest is set to affect all types of rail travel, from long-distance services to regional and local ones, with the overall level of disruption expected to vary by city and operator.

While rail companies are legally required to guarantee the operation of a number of minimum services (servizi minimi) during strikes taking place on weekdays, there’s no such requirement for weekend walkouts.

This means that operators are free to decide whether or not to guarantee services for passengers.

Trenitalia

National rail operator Trenitalia said in a statement that their services “may experience cancellations or changes” for the entire length of the strike, though the protest may also “result in service variations both before its start and after its end”. 

Trenitalia said it will operate a number of minimum services during the walkout. These are available here.

Passengers planning to travel with Trenitalia on Saturday or Sunday are advised to check the status of their journey via the Infomobilità section of Trenitalia’s website or mobile app, or by calling toll-free number 800 89 20 21.

Italo

Staff at private long-distance operator Italo are also expected to take part in the protest.

It was still unclear on Thursday exactly how the strike would impact the operator’s services, but delays and/or cancellations could not be ruled out.

Italo said it will guarantee the operation of a number of long-distance services during the walkout. You can find them highlighted in green in this table.

For further information, you can contact Italo’s support centre at 892 020.

Trenord

Trenord, which operates a number of regional trains in the Lombardy region, including connections to and from Milan’s Malpensa Airport, said it didn’t expect the walkout to have “significant repercussions” on their services. 

Trenord also said it will not operate minimum services during the strike.

However, should airport link services be cancelled, replacement buses will run the same routes. 

See Trenord’s website for the latest updates.

Trenitalia Tper

Services from Trenitalia Tper, which operates a number of trains in the Emilia-Romagna region, “may experience changes or cancellations” due to the walkout, according to a statement

The operator hasn’t yet provided any information regarding possible guaranteed services.

See their website for the latest updates.

What to do if your train is cancelled

If a pre-booked rail service is cancelled due to strike action in Italy, passengers are normally allowed to travel on other equivalent services or are entitled to a refund.

Passengers travelling with Trenitalia can request a refund either at the station or by completing this web form, whereas Italo generally issues refunds automatically.

Keep up with the latest updates in The Local’s strike news section.

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