Read news from:
Austria
SHARE
COPY LINK

NICE

‘Culinary terrorism’ – Why French TV viewers are furious about Salade Niçoise recipe

One of France's best-known TV chefs has been forced to backtrack after fury over his attempt to alter the recipe for French classic Salade Niçoise.

Published: 24 August 2020 10:59 CEST
'Culinary terrorism' - Why French TV viewers are furious about Salade Niçoise recipe
TV chef Cyril Lignac's Salade Niçoise recipe sparked outrage. Photo: AFP

The TV channel M6 has been deluged with complaints over a recipe for the Mediterranean salad which included potatoes, beans and Parmesan, with some commentators labelling this 'culinary terrorism'.

The row broke out over the return of the TV show Tous en Cuisine  (everyone in the kitchen) presented by Cyril Lignac, a chef best known as a judge on France's version of Bake Off.

READ ALSO Five reasons the Bake Off is better in France than Britain

He began the Tous en Cuisine series during lockdown, where it proved very popular as people cooked along with the show, producing a classic recipe.

There's an episode on Monday and as usual M6 has published a list of ingredients in advance, so people can stock up and get ready to cook with Cyril.

But it was when the ingredients list for the Salade Niçoise was published that it all kicked off – as it included items that are not in the traditional recipe.

After a storm of criticism, with people accusing the chef of “defiling our culture” and “sacrilege” a revised recipe was published, more in line with the historical salad (although it should be pointed out that many people also defended the idea of changes to classic recipes).

 

READ ALSO 'An insult to my country' – horror in France at croissant and cheese faux pas

The subject of salade niçoise composition is an important one in Nice. Photo: AFP

So what is in a Salade Niçoise?

It's one of France's most famous dishes and versions are served around the world, but it's also one that is frequently altered into forms that would have purists foaming at the mouth.

Ingredients that are commonly served in the salad in the rest of the world – such as potatoes and green beans – are not part of the classic recipe and neither is lettuce. 

And even tuna, often thought of as an integral part of the salad, is actually not as common in Nice as anchovies.

It's a divisive subject among chefs and Nice locals – one former mayor of Nice even wrote a book about it – but most people seem to agree that tomatoes, cucumbers and spring onions are included, along with hard-boiled eggs and black olives and some form of fish – either anchovies or tuna.

If tuna is used, it is more usually tinned or in oil, rather than a fresh tuna steak.

That said, there will probably be at least one outraged person telling us we are completely wrong . . .

You can find the revised M6 recipe here.

READ ALSO Rules of raclette: How to make one of France's most popular cheese classics

Member comments

Log in here to leave a comment.
Become a Member to leave a comment.
For members

FOOD AND DRINK

9 delicious French dishes to try this summer

It’s almost impossible to imagine a ‘bad time’ for food lovers in France – summer certainly isn’t one, with a huge range of fresh, flavourful and light produce easily available. Here’s a few of our favourites.

Published: 8 August 2024 08:14 CEST
Updated: 10 August 2024 16:06 CEST
9 delicious French dishes to try this summer

Salade niçoise

Summer is the season of salads and seafood in France. Which brings us immediately to arguably the most classic of French summer classic dishes, traditionally made with tomatoes and anchovies, dressed with olive oil.

All the extra stuff you’ll see in a modern version – hard-boiled eggs, olives, lettuce, green beans, tuna were added later and French people can get quite agitated over the question of potatoes in a salade niçoise.

Speaking of . . .

Pan bagnat

A pan bagnat is, basically, salad niçoise in sandwich form. But the secret to a proper pan bagnat is in the bread. It’s a traditional, rustic sandwich made using stale bread that has been refreshed by a trickle of water.

The clue is in the name – it literally means ‘bathed bread’. And a proper pan bagnat can only come from and use ingredients from Provence. Otherwise it’s just a (mostly) vegetable sandwich.

Tomates farcies

Potagers up and down France have tomato plants in them right now, and they’re all – hopefully – giving good fruit. Enter the many stuffed tomato recipes to cope with the glut. Expect variations on a sausage meat, onions, garlic, salt-and-pepper theme.

Of course, a simple tomato salad (perhaps with a little cheese and a sprinkle of basil) is also a joy to behold.

Flan de courgette

As it is with tomatoes, so it is with courgettes. Gardeners the length and breadth of France are wondering what to do with the sheer mass of fruit their plants are giving out.

The simple and delicious courgette flan covers many a base – and also incorporates French cuisine favourites ham and cheese. Usually served warm.

Ratatouille

It’s probably illegal not to mention the famously rustic ratatouille in any piece about French summer recipes.

The dish you probably know – with tomatoes, courgettes, aubergines, pepper and garlic – is from Provence. But there are variation on this vegetable stew that you’ll find across the Mediterranean arc – think piperade, from southwest France, bohémienne, from Vaucluse, or chichoumeille, from Languedoc. 

They’re all delicious and they’ll all give you your five-a-day.

Tarte au chèvre et au concombre

Cucumbers are typical salad fare. They can be added to drinks, used to make chilled soups and detox cocktails. But you can also cook with them. Seek out a recipe for goat’s cheese and cucumber tart.

Vichyssoise

A chilled soup, perfect on a summer’s day, with a French name, created by a French chef. This chilled leek-and-potato soup actually first appeared, around 1910, as a dish at the Ritz-Carlton hotel in New York. But it has its basis in France. The chef who created it, Louis Félix Diat, said that it was inspired by his mother, who taught him how to cook. 

Chilled soups are a great bet on a hot day and you’ll see dozens of variations on menus, from cucumber to melon via variations on gazpacho (which is Spanish but the French very sensibly embrace it).

Tapenade

Black olives, garlic, anchovies, capers, olive oil. A blender. And you’ve got a delicious, simple ‘tartiner’ for a slice of toast or crusty bread. Try it. You’ll thank us.

Moules à la crème

Shellfish and summer go hand in glove. Moules-frites are hugely popular, with good reason.

But this summer moules recipe is, despite the creaminess, a little lighter overall. As always, there are always regional variations on a theme – do look out for moules à la normande, in particular.

What’s your favourite French dish on a hot day? Share your recommendations in the comments section below

SHOW COMMENTS