SHARE
COPY LINK

LISA BJURWALD

Six staycationers you’re bound to run into at these Swedish holiday spots

Planning a holiday in Sweden this year? Swedish writer Lisa Bjurwald reflects on the types of holidaymakers you'll definitely run into around the country, and, perhaps, what your choice of destination says about you.

Six staycationers you're bound to run into at these Swedish holiday spots
Visby in 2022. Photo: Henrik Montgomery/TT

The hipster at Stockholm-on-Sea

They’re going to Ön (“the island”), their friends are going to Ön and they assume everyone else is going to Ön, too. They’re the seasoned Gotland traveller (perhaps even the owner of a traditional limestone cottage or a fashionably dilapidated farmhouse), an urbanite in search of an idealised version of the Tuscan-like countryside at Sweden’s largest island, preferably sans peasants.

Their next-door neighbours on the island are their neighbours in Stockholm, too. There’s no need to sample the local fare as their favourite Södermalm food truck relocates to the medieval alleys of Visby city in July, just like their favourite boutique. The islanders grin and bear this seasonal affront only because they’re able to charge them 150 kronor for a panini that normally costs 75.

The wannabe sculptor

White, sandy beaches, barns turned into chic art galleries, even wineries – you’d be forgiven for thinking you’re in the south of France rather than the south of Sweden. Bohemian Österlen is a national treasure, colonised by artists and writers moving out of the big cities in the 1970s and sprinkled with pristine golf courses, fishing villages and artsy markets.

Today, this kind of Swedish holidaymaker is either one of the lucky few (or one of their heirs) who got their hands on a local property back in the day, or a middle-aged city dweller renting a villa for a week or two for a taste of the good life (and a sighting of a Swedish superstar like singer-songwriter Ulf Lundell). Retiring in Österlen is every Swede’s dream, but very few can afford it.

A sandy beach at Knäbäckshusen, Österlen. Photo: Johan Nilsson/TT

The rest-when-you’re-dead explorer

No strolling along the beach for these people: summer is for hiking, and the long Swedish annual holiday offers you a chance to head north for some serious physical challenges. Fjällen or “the Fells” is cold, full of mosquitoes but completely devoid of 08:or (Stockholmers) – just how they like it.

If they’re a woman, they’ve only ever worn a dress at their baptism or wedding, and if they’re male, their idea of dressing up is rolling down their cargo pants. Their baby is finally ready to climb Kebnekaise (2,103 metres) at the age of 10 months. That’s what the Babybjörn baby carrier was made for, right?

Ready to get your gaiters on and climb Sweden’s highest mountain? Photo: Fredrik Broman/imagebank.sweden.se

The class act

Gotland is for hipsters and Österlen feels suspiciously left-leaning (aren’t all artists communists?). The holiday destination of choice, when not in St Moritz or on the Côte d’Azur, is one of southern Sweden’s upper-class enclaves, particularly Torekov, Falsterbo or Marstrand (Båstad is for the nouveau riche).

Their holiday house has been in the family for generations and they wouldn’t dream of refurbishing it and flaunting the new decor on Instagram; the more worn, the better, and that goes for everything from their car to their bathrobe. They can smell an outsider from miles away (including those from the country’s financial elite, desperate to fit in among the aristocrats). But these days, most people in Sweden are oblivious to their snobbery and won’t notice how they shudder when the rest of the holidaymakers inflate their unicorn floats.

Torekov, where the upper class is so upper they don’t have to worry about class. Photo: Björn Larsson Ask/SvD/TT

The happy camper

Criss-crossing the land in search of the best camping spot, they couldn’t be more different from the haughty crew above. But that doesn’t mean camping is without its own set of rules. They pride themselves on knowing crucial camping etiquette, such as proper waste disposal and respecting other campers’ space at all times.

They and their friends or family are found hogging the prime spots at classic campsites such as Böda Sand (Öland) and Pite Havsbad (a one kilometre sandy beach surprisingly found in the northern part of Sweden), where they’re known by first name alone to the owners – but they would never divulge their top-secret smultronställen (literally “wild strawberry spots” – the Swedish word for a hidden gem) to a fellow camper. After all, the brother-/sisterhood of camping only goes so far.

Is a mobile home the ultimate staycation destination? Photo: Anders Bjurö/TT

The bargain hunter

For this staycationer, summer equals waiting, sometimes for hours on end. You’ve come prepared with sudoku, crosswords and snacks, for they’re a veteran bargain hunter, taking pride in bagging as many cut-price goods as their van can hold.

The 35,000 square metre Gekås department store in south-west Sweden – its staff immortalised in a cult Swedish docusoap, currently in its 12th season – is your battlefield, the Crocs clogs their comfy armour. Woe to those who dare get in their way as their trained eyes zoom in on a heavily discounted pink microwave. Onward, brave shopper!

The famous Gekås mall in Ullared, Sweden. Photo: Björn Larsson Rosvall/TT
 
Lisa Bjurwald is a Swedish journalist and author covering current affairs, culture and politics since the mid-1990s. Her latest work BB-krisen, on the Swedish maternity care crisis, was dubbed Best reportage book of 2019 by Aftonbladet daily newspaper. She is also an external columnist for The Local – read her columns here.
 
Originally published in July 2021.

Member comments

  1. I liked it. I found it lighthearted, sharp-eyed and critical. I miss those aspects in most articles in this paper. Mostly non-confrontational interviews and cheesy, safe topics. The podcasts are too embarrassing to listen to. Everyone wants to be each other friends. The interviewer is noncritical. “Oh you live in ….? oh i am sooo jealous. how is living in a small village. lovely just lovely.. “

Log in here to leave a comment.
Become a Member to leave a comment.
For members

PROPERTY

How to buy your own Swedish island

Ever felt like spending your summers lounging around on your own island? Or have you always wanted to build a James Bond-style supervillain fort in the middle of the Stockholm archipelago?

How to buy your own Swedish island

How can I find an island for sale?

Perhaps surprisingly, you can find islands for sale in the same places you find other properties in Sweden, for example on property site Hemnet, or directly through an estate agent.

As you may expect, people who own their own islands often want to hang onto them, so they don’t come up for sale very often. 

If you’re still interested in finding your dream island, then try searching egen ö till salu (own island for sale), and be prepared that you’ll probably have to wait a while before one comes up in your ideal area.

You might also get lucky and be able to find a property which just happens to include a small island with it (for example, a property by a lake or by the sea), but there’s no guarantee that the island would be big enough to actually do anything with – and if it is, the price of the property would no doubt reflect this.

Can I build on it?

Islands usually fall into two categories: those where there is already some sort of house or building (like a lighthouse, for example), and those which are completely untouched. 

Bear in mind that the rules on building on islands are pretty strict. Firstly, you’ll need to apply for planning permission (yes, even if you own the whole island), which can be difficult.

Essentially, all Swedish coastlines are protected under strandskyddet (literally: “beach protection”), which means that they must be accessible to the public and cannot be built on or fenced off for private use. The exact area which must be protected varies, but as a general rule you’ll have to keep the shoreline accessible 100 metres inland – going up to 300 metres in some cases.

Under allemansrätten, the right to roam, members of the public must be able to access the coastline, so even if you have your own island which you build your own jetty on, you can’t stop people from turning up and mooring at your jetty to lounge on the rocks.

The only exception to this is if they’re so close to your home they disturb your hemfrid, literally “home peace”, for example if they’d be able to see into your property or would feasibly intrude on your private life.

The downside to this hemfrid rule is that it can sometimes get in the way of planning permission – if a rebuild or extension to your home would extend your hemfrid so much that it would encroach on the public right to access the coastline (even if it’s something as simple as putting in larger windows or building a small veranda), then your application could be rejected.

So essentially, you might need to forget about your dreams of a supervillain-style lair on your own private island.

How much does it cost?

Island prices vary wildly, depending on things like the size of your island, how close it is to a major city, and whether it has buildings or pre-approved planning permission. 

Expect to pay a couple million kronor for a larger island (like this one) close to Stockholm or Gothenburg (yes, even if you can’t build anything on it).

Lilla Kattskäret, an island in Norrtälje around an hour from Stockholm with a handful of small buildings and two separate jetties, sold in August for just under 10 million kronor.

If you’re right in the middle of the city centre, you might see islands listed with no price at all, like this island complete with summer house, guest house and another, smaller island. A stone’s throw from Drottningholm Palace – the home of the Swedish King and Queen – this might be a case of “if you have to ask how much it costs, you probably can’t afford it”.

And don’t forget – you’ll need your own boat to access it, too.

SHOW COMMENTS