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TOURISM

Trulli to treehouses: Why Italy’s tourists can’t get enough of ‘back to basics’ travel

Italy's mountain huts, treehouses and even caves are being given luxury makeovers and rented to tourists, often for eyewatering prices - and people are happy to pay. Reporter Silvia Marchetti looks at what's behind the growing trend.

Trulli to treehouses: Why Italy’s tourists can’t get enough of ‘back to basics’ travel
A trullo house befre renovation in Cisternino, Puglia. AFP PHOTO / GIUSEPPE CACACE

I believe there’s nothing more luxurious than simplicity, especially when it comes down to accommodation and travel. 

And it seems that tourists visiting Italy agree. Several accommodation business owners have recently told me there’s a high demand for chic but simple experiences, both in terms of holiday homes to rent and hotels, as well as restaurants. 

Unexpectedly, these places are more expensive to buy or rent than modern rentals and hotels. 

There’s a sort of ‘expensive poverty’ glamour that lures travelers. That’s why there’s been such a revival of ancient dwellings across Italy, well beyond the famous luxury spa-type hotels set in old cave houses like the ones in Matera, Grottole and other southern areas.

It’s an emerging trend that feeds the primeval nature of man. Travellers want to reconnect with mankind’s ancient heritage – but with money and a few modern comforts.

READ ALSO: Is Italy’s west or east coast the best place for a holiday?

Take the simple treehouses that are springing up recently in Puglia, near Foggia, within lush forests where visitors are surrounded by nature – but at the same time inside a cozy room. The experience may recall our prehistoric roots in some way.

Or reverting to sleeping in sea grottos originally inhabited by primitive men, then turned into cozy white-washed fishermen shelters where entire crews would take shelter during storms.

A renovated fisherman’s hut on Italy’s Ponza island. Photo: Touristcasa

The tiny atoll of Palmarola off Rome’s coast is dotted with fishermen grottos turned into élite summer retreats, rented with private dinghies starting from 500 euros per person per night. One such grotto home has a double entrance that cuts right through the rock, so you have panoramic sea views on both sides – great for solo morning swims. 

On the nearby island of Ponza, where caveman used to go looking for the precious obsidian black stone, clifftop seafront villas cut into hillsides are the most in-demand accommodation.

I once met a young couple who was staying in one of these for two weeks and it was funny how they enjoyed such an isolated place with no easy access (only by boat). At night they would climb down to their little dock along a steep dark path without any lights lined with prickly pear shrubs to get to a little dinghy (that comes with the villa) that would take them each time to the main village to shop, eat and so on. It was like their scooter.

I fell, scratched my legs and nearly broke my neck visiting, and it was daylight. They enjoyed going around with flashlights at night because it was cool, they said. Oh, and their kingsize shower also had a limited water supply, because it used rainwater as a source like in the good old days. 

The view from a fisherman’s hut on Italy’s Ponza island. Photo: Silvia Marchetti

This is all part of a new  trend that’s unique to Italy, given the country’s rich, ancient architectural heritage. 

The cone-shaped trulli of Puglia are an iconic type of accommodation, found not only in Alberobello, the most touristy place of all, but scattered all over the area, where families that own one in their backyard can rent it at high prices – as referenced in the funny Italian movie titled ‘Mi rifaccio il trullo’ (I’ll give my trullo a makeover).

READ ALSO: Why visitors to Italy are ditching hotels – and where they’re staying instead

Last time I visited the Alto Adige region I was surprised at seeing so many old ‘masi’, which are Alpine dairy lodges and farms built by ancient shepherd tribes with thick stone walls and slanted roofs, lavishly restyled and transformed into country houses offering ‘nature stays’. The ‘spa’ at the one I stayed at was the actual freezing stream outside with currents, so I just had to take a dip and have my legs massaged by the running water, and the spring water served at dinner came also from that same stream. 

The owners are a very rich couple who hate cars, so they would travel from their house to the lodge on horseback. Obviously all the teas and herbs I drank came from the maso’s garden.

Part of an Alpine maso in Alto Adige. Photo: Silvia Marchetti

In Sicily I found interesting salt pan mills turned into panoramic bars, while near my house medieval olive oil millis, or frantoi, are now busy pizzerias and B&Bs with stone rooms featuring the original grindstones.

In the region of Abruzzo, the entire coast is dotted with old wooden sea huts dubbed Trabocchi suspended above water with fishnets, abandoned by fishermen families after the second world war and now turned into restaurants with a cute, romantic vibe.

All these ancient dwellings which are being restored for tourist use are in demand because they offer a chapter of history and an ‘immaterial cultural experience’. That is why people are prepared to pay whatever the price. 

It’s a bit like renting a tribal tent in an African luxury resort: you’d be paying more for the ‘emotions’ it triggers than the tent itself.

With savvy travelers always looking for that special, out-of-the-ordinary experience, this ‘luxury poverty’ accommodation trend will only keep growing in popularity.

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ROME

What’s on in Rome: Eight events not to miss this autumn

From a 'gnocchi' fair to a three-week-long jazz festival, there's a lot to look forward to in Rome over the coming months.

What's on in Rome: Eight events not to miss this autumn

Romaeuropa Festival – September 4th to November 17th

Running from Wednesday, September 4th, to Sunday, November 17th, the 39th edition of the Romaeuropa Festival will feature over 700 artists and performers from all over the globe, including the likes of South African dancer and choreographer Robyn Orlin and musicians Alva Noto and Christian Fennesz.

The stages are set over various locations across the city, including the MAXXI art gallery and Teatro Argentina. 

Find out more details on prices, times, and locations on the festival’s official website.

Gnocchi fair – September 13th to September 15th

Celebrating its 15th year, the Sagra degli Gnocchi a Castelnuovo di Porto is one you shouldn’t miss if you are a fan of the potato-based pasta.

The town where the sagra is held (Castelnuovo di Porto) is a 20-minute drive north from the Rome city centre.

View the full programme here.

READ ALSO: Sagra: The best Italian food festivals to visit in September 2024

Gnocchi are a Roman favourite. Photo by Neilson Barnard / GETTY IMAGES NORTH AMERICA / Getty Images via AFP.

Borgo diVino – September 13th to September 15th

Set on the same dates as the gnocchi festival in Castelnuovo di Porto, the Borgo diVino fair transforms lakeside town Nemi, southeast of Rome, into a paradise for wine lovers, who can expect to find (and sample) wines from all Italian regions.

A food area will be set up where attendees will be able to try dishes typical of the local area to accompany their wine with.

The event is free of charge to enter but a personal wine tasting tour will cost you 18 euros. You can purchase the tickets for the tasting directly at the stands or online.

Tevere Day – October 7th to October 13th

Though the name says ‘day’, this is a week-long, city-wide event dedicated to Rome’s River Tiber, which offers tours along the fiume, historical talks and a number of entertainment opportunities, including music performances and art displays.

Performing acts include neighbourhood brass band La Banda Cecafumo and Ukulele trio, Ukus In Fabula.

All the details can be found on the event’s official website.

Rome Film Fest – October 16th to October 27th 

The 19th edition of the Rome Film Fest will run from October 16th to October 27th in Parioli’s Parco della Musica Auditorium.

The festival will kick off with Berlinguer. La Grande Ambizione, starring Italian actor Elio Germano as the titular character of the former Italian politician.

This year’s edition will also pay homage to the deceased actor Marcello Mastroianni, who starred in the classic 1960 film La Dolce Vita.

The full programme for the event, which saw the likes of Monica Bellucci and Tim Burton last year, has yet to be released.

Tickets can be bought online from October 9th.

Italian actress Monica Bellucci partner Tim Burton at last year’s Rome Film Festival. Photo by Tiziana FABI / AFP.

EurHop Roma Beer Festival – October 18th to October 20th

The EurHop Roma Beer Festival will return to the Salone delle Fontane, in Rome’s EUR district, on October 18th, offering participants a chance to sample 800 different types of beer from all around the world.

The selection of the participating breweries, among the best Italian and international ones, will be made by Trastevere-based pub Ma Che Siete Venuti a Fà. Each attendee gets a beer glass to fill up at one of the 85 stands. 

Tickets cost nine euros apiece and can be purchased online.

READ ALSO: 15 typical Roman foods you need to try at least once

Rome Jazz Festival – November 1st to November 23rd

The 48th edition of the Roma Jazz Festival will be back at the Parco della Musica Auditorium in November.

A star-studded lineup of jazz musicians and bands from all around the globe, including Lakecia Benjamin and Bill Evans & The VansBand All Stars, are set to take the stage this year.

Further details about the scheduled shows and tickets can be found on the festival’s official website.

Roma Arte in Nuvola – November 22nd to November 24th

Held in the Nuvola building, in Rome’s EUR area, Roma Arte in Nuvola displays a collection of contemporary art by leading international artists.

The programme for the 2024 edition hasn’t been announced yet, but past editions have included works from some 150 national and international galleries. 

Updates can be found on the official website.

Do you have an autumn event in Rome that you’d like us to highlight? Let us know in the comments section below.

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