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What can I do if I’ve booked a French skiing holiday and there’s no snow?

Booking a ski holiday in France has become increasingly complicated due to rising temperatures. Here is what to know if your trip to the mountains is set to be more rainy than snowy.

What can I do if I've booked a French skiing holiday and there's no snow?
A stopped chairlift at Le Semnoz ski resort, near Annecy, as the resort had to close temporarily due to the lack of snow. Photo by JEFF PACHOUD / AFP

While high altitude French ski resorts, particularly those in the northern Alps, continue to have enough snow and cold temperatures for skiing and snowboarding, lower-altitude locations in the Jura, Vosges, Massif Central and Pyrenees have struggled in recent years.

Some resorts have had to shut down entirely, while others may delay openings or close certain runs due to a lack of snow.

Trends

There’s no doubt that the long-term trend is towards many snow-free Alpine areas – over the past century the average temperature in the Alps has risen by 2C, almost double the global temperature rise.

Rising temperatures, caused by the climate crisis, mean melting glaciers, a rising snow level (meaning, snow falls only at higher altitudes) and a shorter ski season.

In the long term, National Geographic predicts a 50 percent reduction in snow in the Alps by 2100.

In addition to closures because of a lack of snow, rising temperatures also mean a higher risk of avalanches, so even resorts that do have snow see more temporary closures due to avalanche risk.

READ ALSO How climate change left French ski resorts fighting for survival

Short term

But what about the rest of the 2024 season?

French weather forecaster Météo France predicted in early February that the month would be mild, with average temperatures set to be above normal during the shortest month of the year.

As of mid-February, snow cover in the Alps was considered to be “in good supply above 2,400m, but significantly less at lower altitudes”, according to reporting by 20 Minutes.

Altitude

As temperatures rise so does the snow level, and so the altitude of the resort becomes increasingly important.

With the current average winter temperatures snowfall becomes erratic at below 2,000 metres and of the resorts that have closed their doors permanently, almost all are below 1,500 metres. Since 1951 a total of 169 resorts have closed for good, according to a study by the University of Grenoble – half of them because of a lack of snow.

Some of France’s biggest resorts including Val Thorens, Tignes and Val d’Isere stand above 2,000 metres altitude and therefore have fewer problems with snowfall (for now).

High altitude to family-friendly – 15 of the best French ski resorts

Alternatives

Back in the 1980s, some of the lower-altitude French resorts began using artificial snow machines in order to boost the snow coverage.

The resort of Montclar was one of the areas that invested big money in ‘snow guns’ that kick in automatically to boost snow coverage on the pistes. However it is increasingly becoming too warm for the snow machines to operate, while there are rising concerns about the environmental impact of the extremely energy-heavy machines.

Instead, faced with an increasingly unreliable snowfall, many French ski resorts are diversifying and offering alternative activities for days when skiing is not possible – from snowshoeing, luge and paragliding to spas and shopping.

In some areas, ski lifts have been opened to hikers and many resorts are promoting the year-round joys of Alps and their attractions for hikers, cyclists and extreme sports fans.

Local authorities in the Alps are running an ‘Obsolete Installations’ campaign in which workers dismantle ski lifts that have been left to rust in the closed-down lower-altitude resorts. Over two dozen old ski lifts have been dismantled since 2001.

Insurance

But if you had your heart set on skiing, can you get your money back if you cancel?

As ever, it’s all in the small print of your travel insurance policy but in most cases the answer is no.

Some specialist travel insurance policies have ‘piste closure coverage’ that kicks in if the piste in your resort is closed for any reason – too little snow, avalanche risk, etc. However this is a small daily payment (usually between €10 and €50 a day) that is intended to cover the cost of travelling to a neighbouring resort to ski or snowboard.

Some policies will also refund specific things like the cost of ski passes or ski lessons if slopes are closed. If possible, you might consider simply waiting to book daily ski passes until arrival.

Virtually no policies cover the cost of cancelling that holiday altogether – including flights or accommodation – due to a lack of snow.  

Since the pandemic, some tourism operators – especially small businesses like chalet hire – still offer free cancellation or postponement, so check the details of your booking.

What can I do to check the snow levels?

If you have a trip booked, you can check in advance the snow level at your resort’s website or by looking it up on Météo France.

Ski resorts routinely update their websites with the latest snow reports – and many include webcams that show current weather conditions. It’s a good idea to check those out to decide whether you need your skis or your hiking boots before you head off on holiday this month.

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STRIKES

French motorway staff on strike for first holiday weekend of summer

Workers involved in highway péage operation and intervention have called a strike action over the first weekend of the school holidays.

French motorway staff on strike for first holiday weekend of summer

The CFDT union called on workers on the Autoroutes du Sud (ASF) and Vinci motorway networks to strike from 5pm on Friday until 10pm on Sunday evening on the first weekend of France’s ‘grandes vacances’, when thousands of families are due to set off on holiday, according to France Bleu Vaucluse.

READ ALSO Les Grandes Vacances: France’s 2024 summer holidays

The CFDT has filed a strike notice to “demand systematic recruitment in all sectors, with a particular focus on the toll sector” Fabrice Bergery, union representative of the CFDT ASF, said.

The union said staff who leave ASF employment are not being replaced, with employee levels dropping from 1,300 to 700 in recent years. It has demanded the immediate hiring of seasonal workers to ease pressure on current staff, and for permanent contracts to be advertised whenever staff members leave the company.

“With excessive automation, management does not consider it useful to replace those who retire. Everything is done remotely, intervention times have become much longer to assist the customer or repair equipment,” assures Fabrice Bergery.

And it has condemned a reorganisation of toll services on France’s autoroutes, as jobs across the three Vinci-owned networks are consolidated and centralised. 

The CGT union, meanwhile, has filed a strike notice, extending over the entire summer season, to September 15th.

ASF manages some 2,700 kilometres of France’s autoroutes in the south of the country, including the busy A7 and A9. 

For the most part, motorists will probably not notice any problems as toll booths are automatic. However, unions warned that there may be delays – leading to queues – in case of technical problems with the automated systems.

READ ALSO Travel trouble in store for France on first big summer holiday weekend

Vinci, however, has promised that ‘continuity of service will be ensured across the entire motorway network’.

The ASF manages some 2,700 kilometres of autoroutes in the south of the country, including the busy A7 and A9. Vinci Autoroutes, meanwhile, operates more than 4,400 kilometres of motorways in the west, south-west and south-east of France.

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