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ITALIAN HABITS

Nine unmistakable signs that summer has arrived in Italy

With hot and sunny conditions across the country this week, summer seems to have finally arrived in Italy. Besides the weather though, there’s further proof that 'estate' is upon us.

Nine unmistakable signs that summer has arrived in Italy
People soak up the sun on a public beach near Santa Margherita Ligure, Genova. (Photo by OLIVIER MORIN / AFP)

Awnings, parasols and fans: Italian houses change their appearance

The sun is almost unfailingly scorching during Italy’s summer months, but that doesn’t keep people in the country from enjoying outdoor meals with family and friends. 

As soon as temperatures rise, homeowners rush to roll down awnings and open up parasols, giving their gardens and patios a new look for the season. 

At the same time, fans are quickly pulled out of whatever remote corner of the house they were thrown into the year before and put back in place. 

Grocery shops burst with colour

The summer months mark the return of some beloved types of fruit – from strawberries and cherries to cantaloupes and watermelons, to peaches and apricots.

Embellishing the shelves of grocery shops and food market stands all around the country, these are essential staples of Italians’ summertime diet and many truly can’t get enough of them.

Italian supermarket shelves are a burst of colour during the summer thanks to seasonal fruit. Photo by Wendy Petricioli on Unsplash

The return of sandali and infradito

As the days get hotter, people in Italy do away with closed-toe shoes and opt for lighter footwear such as sandals, espadrilles or moccasins.

Flip-flops also make a comeback as people around the country get out their infradito at the beach.

Summer is the only time of the year when you should wear open-toe shoes, according to Italy’s unwritten rules of fashion etiquette. 

In fact, for reasons that are not entirely clear, wearing a pair of ciabatte before or after the summer season can raise eyebrows among Italians, even though you might think it’s warm enough to wear them.

Late dinners

With days getting longer – in June the sun sets as late as 9.30pm in some areas – people in Italy tend to have dinner later. 

So those living in the north, who are generally known for dining relatively early (around 7.30pm), move dinnertime back by one or even two hours to enjoy the additional sunlight.

In the south of the country, where mealtimes usually happen slightly later all year round, don’t be surprised if dinner doesn’t get started until 10pm or beyond.

People in Italy tend to have dinner later than they usually do in the summer months. Photo by Cory Bjork on Unsplash

Dogged mosquitoes

Mosquitoes are one of the few downsides of the estate italiana as most areas of the country deal with the pesky insects from late May to early September. 

From body sprays and repellents to citronella grass, there are a number of ways you can try to keep zanzare from getting a free meal. But, alas, a few will always make it past your defences with sheer Liam Neesonesque resolve.

Hopeless congestion

Summer is Italy’s peak tourist season, which means that the country’s so-called ‘art cities’ (Venice, Florence, Rome, Verona, etc.) and countless seaside locations are taken over by crowds of tourists, usually to the delight of residents trying to go about their daily lives.

Things generally get more chaotic on Italian roads too, particularly in August, when long traffic jams clog up highways and state roads for hours on end at times. 

Italy’s so-called art cities, including Venice, Rome and Florence, are frequently very crowded during the summer. Photo by Levi van Leeuwen on Unsplash

Cooler bags galore

There’s nothing more quintessentially Italian than a Sunday lunch at the beach, with national tradition requiring that the meal be kept strictly inside a borsa frigo (cooler bag). 

Word to the wise: never open a cooler bag before lunchtime if you’re hanging around with Italians. Some would faint at the thought of their food “being ruined by the heat”.

Playing cards and Settimana Enigmistica magazines

While the younger beachgoers generally enjoy themselves playing sports, older people go for less physically demanding but equally competitive pastimes, with card games and word puzzles (usually from the iconic Settimana Enigmistica magazine) being by far the most common activities.

Loud Italian music…

As temperatures rise, so does the volume of the speakers in most Italian bars and kiosks. 

While that isn’t necessarily a bad thing per se, brace yourself: the owners usually have fairly questionable music tastes. 

What are some of the other signs that summer has arrived in Italy? Let us know your thoughts in the comments below.

Member comments

  1. Excellent article, but it not just the footwear that changes with the season, particularly with women. We just returned to The States from vacationing in Campania… I saw lots of tanktops and minuscole camicette that merely two weeks ago would have been borderline sacrilegious. OK, so I’m married, but I couldn’t help but notice… I’m still a guy.

  2. Il cinema sotto le stelle: many cities have a tradition of open air movies during the summer months, a lovely way to pass a hot summer evening.

    1. Thanks for adding this. One of my favourite things about summer in Italy!

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OPINION AND ANALYSIS

OPINION: Family is sacrosanct to us Italians – even if it means you can’t get away

Foreigners living in Italy are often left baffled by how much 'la famiglia' is intrinsic to the Italian way of life. Silvia Marchetti explains why families in Italy "stick together like glue", even if it means your relatives are a constant presence in your life.

OPINION: Family is sacrosanct to us Italians – even if it means you can't get away

Family in Italy is considered the building block of society, and it is sacrosanct.

Most Italians give so much importance to it that it is hard for some to believe. Family is far more important in Italy than in other European and western countries where I have lived such as the Netherlands or Switzerland. 

We tend to stick together like glue. 

Talking to several expat friends of mine, I realise this is something that often baffles many foreigners, who are used to leaving the family ‘nest’ at an early stage in life. And it’s not just an impression outsiders to Italian culture get by attending huge flashy weddings, religious celebrations such as baptisms, and birthdays, where family members come in dozens. 

La famiglia is our daily reality, for better or worse. 

I’ve had a hard time dealing with family myself. When I was a kid, until I started to say basta to my parents, each weekend and festivity was spent at my grandparents or with my cousins, uncles and aunts. We even all went skiing together or holidaying at our beach homes. My father and his brothers had bought attached studios so we could all always be together.

In Italy, no matter how old one gets, parents, siblings, relatives of all degrees and grandparents are always present. And sometimes, I think, they’re even too present and may tend to often ‘intrude’ in one’s private life. 

In Italy extended families are considered a blessing and youths can’t seem to leave their parents home until they’re very, very old (hence the denigratory term of ‘mammoni’, meaning ‘mama’s boy or girl’). 

Up until after the Second World War, when a new child was born, families in rural areas and on small islands would build an annexed dwelling so everyone could stick together in future. 

When I first visited the island of Ponza, off Rome’s coast, it struck me how huge cave labyrinths had been carved from cliffs into several annexed grotto homes for the entire extended family. 

One could think that it all comes down to a matter of religion: as the majority of Italians are Catholic, and also quite religious, the Church preaches the importance of family as both a key spiritual and material entity that accompanies people throughout their entire lives.

But that’s not enough to explain it. 

I believe the importance of family is part of a typical Italian lifestyle and mindset, a belief in certain values that having family is like an investment for the future, a safety net in hard times. 

READ ALSO: Why are Italians both so religious and so superstitious?

This traces its roots back centuries. Even though Italian society has always been officially patriarchal on the outside, with the husband-father who decided over the fate of everyone, in reality it was the woman (wife and mother) the lady of the household. Usually, kids tend to stick around their mums more than their dads. 

Across history, family members have always stood up for each other, both in aristocratic and poor families. 

It is crucial to keep in mind that we are a relatively young nation when compared to France and the UK. Italian national unity was reached only in 1861 and the Republic was created in 1946; up until then, Italy did not exist. 

It was a mosaic of bickering city-states and fiefdoms ruled by powerful aristocratic families who were constantly at war with each other. Family was the seat of power, and affiliation was more than just identity and belonging. It meant survival.

Likewise, peasants could solely rely on their own family members to survive, keep the harvests going and the land fertile. Each newborn was considered additional labour force to add to the family, a pair of ‘extra hands’ (as my granny would say) to plough, feed the animals and run the farm activities. 

When society went from rural to modern, and people started abandoning villages to move to larger towns and abroad, family was still seen as a pillar. Immigrant Italian families that have flourished across the world, building, for instance, ice cream and pizza empires that still survive to this day, are proof. 

La famiglia è tutto” (family is everything) is my dad’s favourite motto. 

I believe that, no matter how Italian society will evolve in the near future, spending a lot of time with close family and extended family members will still be a common trait of most Italians. It’s innate.

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