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FOOD AND DRINK

The foods you have to try while visiting Hamburg

Every region of Germany has its own unique local cuisine - and Hamburg is no exception. The northern port city is known for its array of quirky fish dishes and a pastry delicacy with a slightly misleading name.

A fisherman fillets plaice at Hamburg harbour.
A fisherman fillets plaice at Hamburg harbour. Photo: picture alliance/dpa | Christian Charisius

When it comes to Germany’s major metropoles, Hamburg is a city like no other. Its location just a stone’s throw from the North Sea coast made it a bustling trading hub way back in medieval times, and its sea-faring, mercantile history can still be felt in the air today.

When it comes to the dishes that Hamburg is known for, you’ll discover that the city is equally unique. Instead of sausage and sauerkraut, your tastebuds will be tantalised by delectable seafood dishes, from tangy pickled herring to the fiery yet comforting kick of Pannfisch.

So if you’re planning on visiting the Hanseatic city-state –  or even if you live there – there are eight foods that you definitely shouldn’t miss out on trying at least once.

1. Labskaus

This is admittedly one for the slightly more adventurous diners, but as Hamburg’s ‘national’ dish, you shouldn’t leave the city without sampling it. Labskaus is essentially a combination of canned or salted meat, potatoes and onion, served with sides of herring, gherkin, beetroot and fried egg – though whether fish should be added is the subject of heated debate.

Labskaus in northern Germany

A cook presents a plate of Labskaus at a street food festival in northern Germany. Photo: picture alliance/dpa | Karsten Klama

This creative combination of ingredients was actually the invention of sailors back in the 16th century, who reached for things like pickled beetroot, salted meat and herring because they were easy to preserve on long voyages.

The name may also ring a few bells for Brits, as a dish of a similar name is eaten in the northern harbour town of Liverpool, where locals are also nicknamed “scousers” – presumably after the dish. 

READ ALSO: 12 words and phrases you need to survive in Hamburg

2. Rundstück warm

If you’ve ever wondered why a hamburger is called a hamburger, the clue could lie in this hearty local snack. Originally eaten by dock workers, who needed something stodgy and comforting to get them through the long hours of manual labour, the Rundstück – or “round piece” – consists of a hefty slice of roast pork in a crusty wheat roll, with gravy poured on top.

This juicy bit of meat in a bun is thought to be the predecessor to the hamburger, which could well explain where the popular meat patty in a bun gets its name. Just like the hamburger, the Rundstück is traditionally eaten by hand as well, so dig in and don’t worry about getting a little bit messy!

3. Fischbrötchen

If you’re looking for a light lunch on the harbourside during your trip, there’s nothing better – or more quintessentially Hamburg – than a fish roll. 

If you think this sounds a bit dull, think again: Fischbrötchen can come in all shapes and sizes, whether its the cheekily named ‘Bismarck’ herring or melt-in-the-mouth North Sea crab.

Bismarck herring fish rolls at a kiosk in Hamburg.

Bismarck herring fish rolls at a kiosk in Hamburg. Photo: picture alliance/dpa | Marcus Brandt

For a truly authentic experience, head to the harbour in the afternoon and pick up a fish roll to go from any of the little cafes or kiosks you stumble upon, then find a prime spot to enjoy it with the fresh sea air blowing in your face.

4. Finkenwerder Maischolle

In largely landlocked Germany, you shouldn’t miss out on sampling deliciously fresh seafood when you come to the northern coast, and when in Hamburg Finkenwerde Maischolle should definitely be on your ‘must try’ list.

Scholle is German for plaice – a popular fish in northern Germany – and Finkenwerde is a district of Hamburg that was once a little fishing village. To prepare an authentic Finkenwerde Maischolle, the delicate, crumbly white fish is usually baked or pan fried with lashings of butter, then paired with bacon, onions and shrimp from the North Sea. Traditional sides also include Bratkartoffeln (roasted potatoes) and a zingy salad with plenty of crunchy lettuce. The perfect end to a day of sightseeing.

READ ALSO: Five German foods to try this summer

5. Aalsuppe

Though it may sound simple, Hamburg eel soup is actually a complex, flavourful dish with a rich – and disputed – history. The earliest recipe was discovered in a cookbook dating all the way back to 1788, and many believe the soup was simply a vehicle for using up leftovers. Some even claim that eel was never part of the original recipe, but was simply added to impress people who were visiting Hamburg.

These days, this wholesome sweet-and-sour dish consists of meat broth, dumplings, cured beef, eel, vegetables and even baked fruit. You’ll find it on the menus of most traditional Hamburg restaurants as a main course.

6. Franzbrötchen

You’d be forgiven for assuming that Franzbrötchen – or French roll – comes from France, but this delectable pastry actually originated in Hamburg.

Franzbrötchen with raisins in a bakery in Hamburg

Franzbrötchen with raisins in a bakery in Hamburg. Photo: picture alliance/dpa | Daniel Reinhardt

That said, there’s definitely a French influence in these sweet, buttery rolls: legend has it that locals were inspired by croissants during the Napoleonic occupation back in the 19th century and decided to invent their own version of the classic pastry. 

Fast forward to today and you’ll find Franzbrötchen in every bakery in the city, as well as in the surrounding towns. If you want the original, you should pick the version with a simple frosting of sugar and cinnamon, but you can also choose from numerous adaptations with fillings like marzipan and chocolate.

7. Pannfisch

If you’re looking for a rustic fish dish with a little bit of heat to it, Pannfisch could be exactly what you’re looking for. Like a lot of Hamburg’s regional cuisine, it was once considered a poor man’s meal, but these days you’ll find it expertly cooked in a number of local eateries.

The concept is pretty simple: a fillet of fish is coated in a hefty helping of flour to create a light batter, and then fried and served in a buttery mustard sauce along with a generous helping of Bratkartoffeln. In original versions of the dish, the sauce was to mask the slightly funky flavour of the random assortment of fish pieces used to make the dish, but nowadays restaurants will elevate the traditional meal with much finer varieties of white fish, which are usually caught fresh from the North Sea.

8. Pechkekse

Northern Germans are known for their dark sense of humour, and there’s no better example of this than the invention of Pechkeske, or bad-fortune cookies, which were invented in Hamburg and are still manufactured there today.

Pechkekse - or bad fortune cookies - predicting bad luck.

Pechkekse – or bad fortune cookies – predicting bad luck. Photo: picture alliance / dpa | Franziska Kraufmann

This is a crunchy treat that tastes an awful lot like a fortune cookie, but in a striking black colour to match the black humour inside. Instead of cryptic predictions about fame, fortune and true love, you may find the cookie insulting you with a phrase like: “You’re kind of funny, but not in a funny way.”

Open a few Pechkekse right at the start of the trip and you’ll be well prepared for that gruff northern banter.

READ ALSO: Thrifty Swabians and haughty Hamburgers: A guide to Germany’s regional stereotypes

9. Rote Grütze

Visiting Hamburg in the summer months? Then you can’t leave without trying Rote Grütze, a delightfully refreshing fruit dessert that’s hugely popular in northern Germany.

An assortment of berries – including strawberries, currents and cherries – are cooked in sugar to produce a sharp, citrussy compote that’s generally served with whipped cream, ice cream, cold milk or vanilla sauce.

Pair with a glass of sparkling prosecco at the end of an al fresco meal on the waterfront and we guarantee you’ll be in heaven.

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CULTURE

‘Swiftkirchen’: What you need to know about Taylor Swift’s Germany concerts

Taylor Swift will bring her ‘Eras’ tour to Germany in July for a series of seven shows split between Gelsenkirchen, Hamburg and Munich. From transport to what else to do, here's all you need to know.

'Swiftkirchen': What you need to know about Taylor Swift's Germany concerts

Swift’s Eras Tour shows have been selling out almost immediately across Europe, but tickets were still available online for her Germany dates on the ticket resale website Viagogo at the time of reporting. Second-hand tickets are going for between €500 – €1,000 or more.

The US-born pop-singer turned billionaire superstar last performed in Germany in 2019, making this her first performance in the country since the release of her latest album ‘The Tortured Poets Department’.

The Eras tour is known to be a massive production, with shows running for over three hours and featuring songs from each of her nineteen albums, which have sold a total of 151 million units.

American rock band Paramore will open for Swift at her European shows.

If you’re a fan who is lucky enough to have a ticket – or if you’re living near an arena where Swift will play – here are some things to know.

Three shows in the city formerly known as Gelsenkirchen

Swift’s tour includes three back to back performances in Gelsenkirchen’s Veltins Arena on July 17th, 18th and 19th.

The Ruhr city, little known outside of Germany, is really gearing up to give Swift a warm welcome – even going as far as temporarily renaming itself “Swiftkirchen” after local fan, Aleshanee Westhoff, suggested the name to the city’s mayor and started a petition.

Swift will also receive her own stone on the Gelsenkirchen Walk of Fame, and German news agency DPA reported that a “Taylor Swift streetcar” is already up and running.

Swiftkirchen signs

Local ‘Swifty’ Aleshanee Westhoff shows the “Swiftkirchen” town sign that will be displayed in the city for the coming weeks. Photo: picture alliance/dpa | Bernd Thissen

For those travelling to Gelsenkirchen for the show, it’s worth making reservations early. Germans are known for booking transport and accommodation tickets well in advance causing prices to soar for those who book at the last minute.

It’s also worth noting that with a population around 260,000, Gelsenkirchen is a small city and can be expected to be running at full capacity when an expected 70,000 Swifties come in every night for three nights in a row.

The nearby city of Essen has more in the way of accommodation and amenities, as do Duisburg or Dortmund which are about an hour away from the arena by train. But if you want to avoid getting stuck in crowded train stations, you’d be better off trying to stay closer to the arena if possible. 

Gelsenkirchen’s public transportation may face some challenges when it’s confronted by an army of Swifties. Recently, the city’s public transportation capacity limits were tested by Euro 2024 fans, many of whom were left waiting at the nearby station for hours after matches.

READ ALSO: ‘Welcome to Germany’ – Euro 2024 travel chaos raises questions about German efficiency

The problem here stems from the fact that there is only one direct tram line (302) connecting the Veltins Arena with Gelsenkirchen Hauptbahnof which connects with Essen, Bochum and other nearby cities.

If the 302 trams are too packed on the way to the arena, you could try taking the 301 to ‘Gelsenkirchen Erle Forsthaus’, and then walking a couple kilometres to the stadium or transferring to the 342 bus to the stadium.

Bus lines 380 and 381 also stop at close proximity to the arena, at the Willy-Brandt-Allee and Sportparadies stops. 

There is also plenty of bicycle parking for those who prefer to come on two wheels, and taxi stands can be found around the arena.

If you’re driving to the arena, you can navigate to Rudi-Assauer-Platz 1, 45891 Gelsenkirchen.

Two shows in Hamburg

The Eras Tour will come to Hamburg’s Volksparkstadion on July 23rd and 24th.

Hamburg is always a lively city to visit, but it is bound to be extra colourful when Swifties take to the streets during these days.

The Volksparkstadion is located at Altonaer Volkspark in the northwestern part of the city. Staying in the Altona neighbourhood would put you closest to the arena.

The most direct route from Hamburg Hauptbahnhof is on the S5 line, getting off at Eidelstedt and walking a kilometre and a half to the stadium.

But being a bigger city with more public transportation capacity, you shouldn’t have too much trouble navigating from other areas – such as the more central St. Georg or St. Pauli neighbourhoods that are always popular with visitors. 

Of course you should still expect high traffic and crowded transportation around the arena before and after the concert.

Among the warmest months –  in a city not particularly known for summer weather – July can be a great time to visit Hamburg. But it’s also among the city’s wettest months on average, so it’d be wise to pack an umbrella or a raincoat just in case.

Should you find yourself stuck in the rain in Hamburg, here are some rainy weather activities you can try.

Two shows in Munich

The Eras Tour comes wraps up in Germany with two shows at Munich’s Olympiastadion on July 27th and 28th.

The stadium here is located in Olympic Park, and is not far from Munich’s central Maxvorstadt neighbourhood.

Coming from Munich Hauptbahnhof, there are a number of transportation options to get to the concert.

Among the fastest routes are taking the U2 to Scheidplatz and transferring to the 144 bus, or taking the U1 to Rotkreuzplatz and taking the 144 bus from there.

With the concert expected to end around 11 pm, Munich’s famous beer gardens will be closed by the time the show is over, but the city has plenty of trendy bars if you want to keep the party going. 

Should you be compelled to try and sing some of Swift’s greatest hits yourself, the nearby restaurant and bar, Indian Cave, hosts karaoke late into the night on Saturdays.

READ ALSO: ‘World’s largest village’: How foreigners in Germany feel about Munich

‘Swiftonomics’ to give local businesses as boost

The economic impact of a Taylor Swift show is well known, and has even been coined ‘Swiftonomics’.

One study showed that the average spend on tickets, accommodation, food and merchandise per concert goer during the US legs of the ‘Eras’ tour was over $1,300.

Cities and even entire states have reported significant boosts to their GDP – Los Angeles gained an estimated $320 million, while Colorado received 140 million.

Germany’s economy had barely avoided slipping into recession for most of the past year. 

It’s unlikely that Swift’s seven shows will turn around the outlook for Europe’s largest economy by themselves, but local businesses and even the municipalities around the arenas hosting the Eras Tour are certainly hoping for a bit of a boost.

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