SHARE
COPY LINK
For members

FOOD AND DRINK

Are doggy bags still a taboo in Italy’s restaurants?

As controversy rages over a proposed ‘doggy bag’ law for Italian restaurants, why is taking leftovers home frowned upon in Italy and are things changing?

Doggy bag, Italy
Restaurant customers are pictured as they take an unfinished bottle of wine home. Photo by PATRICK BERNARD / AFP

Italy has plenty of unwritten rules revolving around food, and most Italians don’t take affronts to their culinary and dining traditions lightly. 

But after famed Neapolitan pizzaiolo Gino Sorbillo added pineapple pizza to his menu last week, another food-related taboo has been brought into question in recent days; namely Italians’ traditional hostility towards the idea of taking restaurant leftovers home, including unfinished bottles of wine.

The topic has been in the news after lawmakers proposed a bill requiring restaurants in Italy to provide takeout containers (in which they used the English term ‘doggy bag’), presenting it as a bid to reduce food waste.

The law would follow in the footsteps of similar pieces of legislation already in place in France and Spain, where bars and restaurants have for years been required to offer customers the option of taking food leftovers away with them.

But, as debates on whether or not it is acceptable to take a portion of rigatoni home from the local trattoria continue in Italy, you may wonder why this is even being discussed, especially as the practice has long been commonplace in other European countries as well the US and UK.

Restaurant, Rome

Customers have lunch at a restaurant in Campo dei Fiori in downtown Rome in April 2021. Photo by Filippo MONTEFORTE / AFP

The general consensus is that the issue boils down to fare una bella figura (‘making a good impression’), and particularly the idea that taking leftovers home from the restaurant may be seen as a sign of limited financial means or excessive attachment to money.

This was confirmed by a 2015 survey that found that one in four Italians believed the idea of carrying the remnants of their favourite dishes back home was a sign of poverty, bad manners and even vulgarity, with only 25 percent of respondents admitting they were comfortable asking for a doggy bag.

READ ALSO: What are the rules on tipping in Italy?

But, 15 years after Michelle Obama and her daughters stunned the country by walking out of a popular Rome restaurant holding a doggy bag, there are early signs that Italians (or at least some of them) may be changing their stance on the controversial takeaway box.

Four in ten Italians are now comfortable taking restaurant leftovers, with ‘only’ 12 percent of respondents saying that it’s vulgar or a sign of poverty, according to a survey from farmers’ association Coldiretti.

A recent survey by the Waste Watcher International Observatory, cited by Ansa, meanwhile found that nearly one in two Italians thinks that restaurants should offer doggy bags, with one in four saying that they would appreciate culinary advice on how to cook or reuse leftovers at home.

And while customers seem to be slowly adapting to the idea of taking food home after eating out, many restaurants have already embraced the idea that providing doggy bags on request may soon be mandatory.

READ ALSO: ‘A rip-off’: Should you really get mad about Italy’s table charge?

Award-winning pizzaiolo Franco Pepe described the ‘doggy bag bill’ as the “ideal proposal”, while Michelin-star chef Ada Stefani said she regarded mandatory takeaway boxes as “a necessary investment” to tackle waste. 

But amid the favourable voices, some remained doubtful or even critical of the proposed bill.

For instance, journalist Giuseppe Cruciani on Thursday described the law proposal as a “shambles”, saying that taking food home was “very vulgar”.

What do you think – are attitudes changing in Italian restaurants? Have you ever encountered problems when asking to take food or drink home? Let us know in the comments section below.

Member comments

  1. I think it’s fine to ask for a container to take home food, but maybe the restaurant should be able to charge for it, even if it’s only a few cents.

  2. It’s extraordinary that the ‘fare una bella figura’ idiom is still common practice in Italy. It feels rather dated and in some ways quite amusing, the evident importance of it. It also keeps Italy in a conservative position both politically and socially.
    I live in central London and doggy bags are very much common practice and completely acceptable regardless of whether in a lower priced resto or high-end.
    I

  3. I think taking leftovers home is a wonderful practice. It communicates an appreciation of the food, decreases overeating while reducing food waste and decreasing the environmental impact. There are some dishes that taste just as good on the second encounter and make a great, quick pranzo or, in the case of pizza, an exciting colazione.

  4. Italians should worry less about “fare una bella figura.” I would say to Giuseppe Cruciani that wasting food is a far more vulgar offense. Stop being so pretentious and start living in the real world.

  5. In recent years I have asked for a “take away” box/bag after dinner for left overs and have seen no attitude at all. But years ago that was not the case.

  6. We always take food home if left and the restaurants always
    supply a container and are happy to do so. Not pasta though. You’ve paid for it so why not take it home?

Log in here to leave a comment.
Become a Member to leave a comment.
For members

ITALIAN TRADITIONS

Why do Italians take such long summer holidays?

Summer holidays in Italy mean workplaces emptying for weeks on end, a flood of 'out of office' replies from colleagues and clients, and deserted cities. But why is the long break so ingrained in Italian society?

Why do Italians take such long summer holidays?

If you live in Italy, there’s a good chance you’ll be painfully familiar with the following scene: it’s early August and you head down to your favourite trattoria looking to treat yourself to a nice plate of bucatini pasta only to find shuttered windows, stacked patio chairs, and a sign hanging on the door saying ‘chiuso per ferie’ (‘closed for the holidays’).

What’s worse, you realise that the place is going to be shut for four consecutive weeks, meaning you’ll have to put off your craving for a culinary sfizio (‘treat’) until September. 

The long August break is generally one of, if not the most baffling aspect of Italian life for foreign nationals in the country.

After all, Italy as a whole pretty much grinds to a halt in early August, with millions of Italians leaving for their holiday destinations at the same time and anything from private businesses and hospitality establishments to public offices and banks closing for two to four weeks (usually to the delight of anyone looking to get any sort of official paperwork done). 

But why do Italians take such long summer holidays?

As it’s generally the case with most Italian habits and traditions, it’s hard to pinpoint a single factor behind the long August ferie (‘holidays’). 

READ ALSO: Nine unmistakable signs that summer has arrived in Italy

Surely, history plays no small part in the custom as experts believe the lengthy break may trace all the way back to Roman times, and specifically to emperor Augustus, who first established a long period of rest for farm hands and labourers known as Augustali, to be celebrated right after the end of harvest season. 

The long August break later survived the fall of the Roman empire as Christianity removed the more pagan aspects of the holiday, replacing them with liturgical observances and celebrations, including the Assumption of Mary, on August 15th. 

Finally, in the first half of the 20th century, the Fascist regime further legitimised the custom, with dictator Benito Mussolini himself enshrining the August holidays as a much-deserved break from the hard work carried out in factories and fields.

But while the long history behind the August holidays surely goes a long way towards explaining why they are so entrenched in Italian society, there are other considerations to be made.

First of all, August is the hottest month of summer in Italy, with daytime temperatures hovering between 35 and 40 degrees Celsius in many parts of the country and high levels of humidity.

This makes the August holidays something of a necessity for a whole range of occupations involving hard manual labour carried out outdoors. 

READ ALSO: Why do Italians have such clean homes?

Secondly, it’s worth pointing out that Italian sindacati are among the most powerful trade unions in Europe, with most organisations gaining significant bargaining power in the aftermath of World War II (the Fascist regime had banned independent workers’ unions) and retaining it up to this day. 

Under collective labour agreements in some public sectors, many offices can legally remain completely closed for as long as two or even three consecutive weeks. 

This means that an employee couldn’t actually work during that period of time even in the (unlikely) event that he wanted to. 

SHOW COMMENTS