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FOOD AND DRINK

What is ‘pyttipanna’ and why is Sweden serving it up to the French president?

French President Emmanuel Macron is visiting Sweden this week, where he will be fed the unusual combination of pyttipanna with bearnaise sauce - a menu with an unexpected royal history.

What is 'pyttipanna' and why is Sweden serving it up to the French president?
Pyttipanna topped with a fried egg and served with pickled beetroot. Photo: Becky Waterton/The Local

Editor’s note on February 1st: Despite pyttipanna grabbing headlines ahead of the visit, it turns out that Macron was not served the traditional hash with bearnaise sauce during his visit to Lund. Instead he was treated to gravlax with fennel and dill cream, smoked ham with artichoke purée and pickled mushroom, shrimp tartelettes and Västerbotten cheese pie with fish roe, reported Kristianstadsbladet.

First, what actually is pyttipanna?

Well, it’s a Swedish dish made up of some kind of meat (most often pork), mixed with potatoes and onion, all chopped up into small pieces and fried until crispy, before serving with a fried egg and pickled beetroot.

Despite originally consisting of leftovers, most people nowadays would make it from fresh ingredients or buy a bag from the supermarket to fry up for a quick dinner. Opinion is divided as to whether the name means “put-in-pan” or “small pieces in a pan”.

It’s similar to a hash (which actually gets it’s name from the French word hacher, to chop up), a dish made up of chopped meat (often canned corned beef), potatoes and fried onions, which was popular in the UK and France during the Second World War when fresh meat was scarce.

It’s an odd choice for a visiting head of state. It’s the kind of food served in Swedish schools – and indeed Swedish homes – as it’s beloved by children. Simply put, it’s not the kind of fine dining you’d expect to be served to a president – especially not a French one.

Arguably, the weirdest thing about the menu choice is the bearnaise sauce. 

Now, Swedes love bearnaise. It’s affectionately known as bea, is found in every Swedish supermarket in about 20 different variations has existed as a crisp flavour, and is often used as a pizza topping alongside chips, but it’s not a traditional accompaniment to pyttipanna. Admittedly, the only sauce most Swedes would be eating their pyttipanna with is ketchup, or HP sauce, which isn’t particularly fitting for a president either.

You may be thinking that this is a nod to Macron’s homeland where bearnaise sauce is from, or an attempt to put a gourmet spin on standard Swedish home cooking, but in fact you can blame Denmark for this culinary curiosity.

So, more specifically, Macron will be treated to the dish when he visits Lund University to speak at a student evening (studentafton). Now, this already makes more sense, as pyttipanna is the kind of dish you can imagine a student heating up in their shared flat after a day of lectures.

Now, it’s somewhat of a tradition for Lund to host visiting politicians, literary and cultural profiles at these student evenings, which have been taking place for over a hundred years.

Every Swedish prime minister has taken part in a studentafton since Per Albin Hansson became prime minister in 1932, as well as the presidents, prime ministers and chancellors of other countries like Estonia, Finland, South Africa, Austria and, yes, France.

Lund is the kind of university which likes its odd traditions, and studentaftnar are no exception. The story goes that when Queen Margrethe of Denmark visited Lund in 2005, she requested pyttipanna – known as biksemad in Denmark – with bearnaise sauce.

“That’s what Queen Margrethe wanted when she visited us in 2005,” Lund student evening chair Frida Eriksson told Swedish radio ahead of Macron’s visit.

“It’s been like that since then. All the guests think it’s great.”

It remains to be seen whether Macron likes pyttipanna with bearnaise sauce or not, but whatever he thinks of it, he can be proud to join a long line of politicians, celebrities and other officials who have been served the unusual combination.

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POLITICS

Sweden moves to allow alcohol producers to sell take-away drinks

Sweden's government has announced plans to let small-scale producers of alcoholic beverages sell their products for consumption off-site - but only if buyers first attend a lecture or guided tour.

Sweden moves to allow alcohol producers to sell take-away drinks

“This is a freedom reform,” Prime Minister Ulf Kristersson told a press conference, alongside Social Minister Jakob Forssmed and Liberal group leader Lina Nordquist. “Sweden will become slightly more like the rest of Europe.”

Under current rules, alcohol producers are allowed to sell their products for consumption on site, but anyone wishing to buy alcohol over 4.5 percent ABV to take home with them can only do so via the state-owned alcohol monopoly, Systembolaget.

Now, the government is planning to allow some producers, such as vineyards and microbreweries, to sell their products on-site for consumption elsewhere, in what is known in Swedish as gårdsförsäljning, literally “farm sale”.

It will only apply to producers who make a maximum of 75,000 litres of spirits, 400,000 litres of fermented drinks up to 10 percent ABV or up to 200,000 litres of fermented drinks over 10 percent ABV.

The proposal includes all types of alcohol and will not require that drinks’ ingredients are produced on-site, with the exception of grapes for wine.

Eligible producers will be able to sell their drinks on-site between 10am and 8pm to visitors who have paid for a guided tour, lecture or similar. Visitors will be allowed to buy up to 3 litres of wine, beer or cider, and 700ml of spirits.

Small-scale cider producer John Taylor, from Dryg Cider, described the proposal as “a joke”.

“The idea that you’re allowed to buy three litres of an alcoholic drink but only as part of a guided tour or lecture is a kind of Kafka-esque joke. What other products do you have to do that for?” he told The Local.

Despite this, he said there were some positives.

“For people who do have farms, it will make a big difference. Because everyone in our industry – small scale drinks producers – struggles to make any money at all. So this will really change things for anyone with a farm shop, which is really good.”

Dryg rent their land, so they will not benefit from the new law, Taylor said.

“It makes no difference for small-scale producers in cities and those of us who rent land and have to sell via the alcohol monopoly.”

He welcomed the move as a step in the right direction, but would like to see the government do more.

“We really want to just be able to sell our product just like any other craft producer in Europe. Which means the abolition of the state monopoly and a free market.”

The proposal is set to come into effect in the first half of 2025 and is expected to benefit around 600 small-scale producers. 

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