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FLORENCE

What’s being done to save Florence from mass tourism?

Locals say Florence is becoming increasingly unliveable due to the impact of unregulated mass tourism. What's being done to keep the city alive?

People walk at Piazza Del Duomo in Florence, on February 15, 2024.
Florence's Piazza Del Duomo on February 15th, 2024. The city is increasingly popular with tourists - but residents and artisans are moving out. Photo by Alberto PIZZOLI / AFP.

Florence, like Venice, is grappling with the effects of overtourism, with rent now costing 84 percent of the average person’s income, according to Mayor Dario Nardella.

Residential rents in the city increased by 42 percent between 2016 and 2023, while official figures show that the number of Airbnb listings more than doubled from 6,000 to 15,000 over the same period.

Just this week, artisans who’d been based in the city for generations reported being kicked out of their workshops in the historic centre to make way for hotels.

In January, Cecilie Hollberg, the German director of Florence’s Accademia Gallery, got into hot water for calling Florence a tourist ‘prostitute’, and was forced to apologise.

But many of The Local’s readers leapt to her defence, saying that while Hollberg’s language may have been crude, she was correct in her diagnosis.

“Over the years I’ve seen the tourist crowds get thicker and thicker, to the point that it’s hard to get around il Duomo or any of the other historic places,” said Ron Melé.

“I agree with the director but wonder how you can limit the numbers,” said Cheryl F.

READ ALSO: Has Florence really been ‘crushed’ by mass tourism?

So what exactly is being done to rescue Florence from its own popularity?

In a major step forward last October, Florence’s centre-left city council passed a landmark resolution that would ban new holiday rentals, following in the footsteps of Sud Tyrol’s Bolzano.

The measure was due to receive final approval within two months, but the vote was reportedly pushed back to the start of this year. Since then there have been little in the way of updates, indicating that the ban has yet to come into force.

Tourists look at the window of a jewellery shop on Florence’s Ponte Vecchio. As historic workshops close to make way for hotels, there have been growing calls for action to protect the city centre. (Photo by Alberto PIZZOLI / AFP)

In December, a petition brought by a group of holiday rental operators to suspend the resolution was denied; a regional court is set to hear an appeal in May, which Nardella has vowed to fight. 

In more of a carrot-driven approach, Deputy Mayor Alessia Bettini this week told news agency AFP that the city had launched a campaign to lure visitors away from Florence’s packed city centre.

“People are increasingly looking for ‘experience-based itineraries’, so we have to promote… other points of historical, artistic, naturalistic and gastronomic interest,” she said.

READ ALSO: Why Italy needs a national plan for sustainable tourism – before it’s too late

Bettini appears to be referring to a project started in early 2022 – ironically, in partnership with Airbnb, who many residents consider to be the architect of their woes – to promote tourism experiences outside of the city.

And Florence’s official tourism website does suggest itineraries and experiences that are off the beaten track.

The problem with these kinds of initiatives is that they require visitors to actively search for and prioritise such experiences – not something that the average tourist who has budgeted two to three days to see Florence’s biggest hits is likely to do.

Elsewhere, Venice is currently trialling a ‘tourist tax’ to be imposed on day-trippers visiting the city centre on certain days in 2024. But such a system would be near impossible to implement in landlocked Florence, and critics have dismissed the plans as little more than window dressing.

A “memorandum of understanding for the sharing of good practices” on tourism, signed by tourism councillors for Florence, Venice, Milan, Naples and Rome back in November, has lofty ambitions, but is thin on details.

As things stand, Florence’s holiday rental ban looks set to be the most powerful tool in the city’s battle against overtourism – if it manages to fight off opposition from local right-wing politicians from the ruling coalition government.

Member comments

  1. In September I spent my fourth visit to Florence. The third had been just 4 years before. The difference was horrendous: huge queues everywhere now and entrance fees for just about everything. Yes, Florence has “prostituted” herself. I wish I had appreciated it more on my first visit in 1969 (when, ironically, the streets were full of prostitutes.

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TOURISM

‘Not even that ancient’: The harshest TripAdvisor comments about Italy’s sights

From Roman ruins to grand Gothic palaces, Italy’s most popular tourist attractions welcome hundreds of thousands of visitors every year – but not everyone leaves satisfied.

'Not even that ancient': The harshest TripAdvisor comments about Italy's sights

With its rich cultural heritage and plenty of art and architecture wonders, Italy draws hundreds of thousands of visitors from all corners of the world every year. 

But a quick scroll through the review section of travel website TripAdvisor will be enough to show that some of the country’s most famous attractions aren’t to everyone’s taste.

Colosseum, Rome

It may be Italy’s biggest tourist attraction, but even the Colosseum – the largest ancient amphitheatre ever built, dating back to 80 AD – fails to impress some.

“I came. I saw. I left,” wrote one reviewer, saying that looking at pictures of the building and reading about its history will spare you from “a long wait line, a port a john [sic] bathroom, and a big disappointment”.

READ ALSO: Nine tips for making the most of a Rome city break

Others were seemingly not so happy with the overall state of the attraction.

“[It] was a lot more broken than I thought it would be, at £15 a pop you’d think they’d invest in repairing it,” one wrote. 

“Not even got a roof? When they finishing it [sic]?” asked another. 

Milan, Duomo 

Though it is often regarded as one of, if not the greatest example of Italian Gothic architecture, not everyone seems to be impressed by Milan’s Duomo cathedral. 

“The outside is gaudy and tacky as the worst of Las Vegas,” while “the inside is as bad taste as the outside” and not worth the wait, “even if they paid you”, one reviewer wrote.

READ ALSO: Stay away! How Europe’s most popular spots are fighting overtourism

Another said the Duomo was no different than any “old cathedral” found in every European city, claiming that “pigeons watching [sic] is more exciting than this building”.

Speaking of pigeons, one tourist warned future visitors about the aggressiveness of the local bird population, saying that the area surrounding the Duomo is “swarming with thousands of pigeons that have long ago lost any fear of humans” and will “fly directly at your head”, forcing you to “take evasive action”.

Just another cathedral? The famed Duomo in Milan. Photo by Martin Anselmo on Unsplash

Doge’s Palace, Venice

Venice’s Palazzo Ducale is the third most-visited tourist attraction in the country and arguably one of the best-preserved traces of the ancient Venetian Republic’s power. 

But the palace isn’t everyone’s cup of tea – at least judging from its reviews.

“When you go inside, there’s nothing to see except a lot of paintings on the ceilings and high on the walls. The paintings are impressive but very samey,” one reviewer wrote.

READ ALSO: What’s the difference between Italy’s city taxes and new ‘tourist tax’?

“Really boring,” complained another, saying that the rooms were “bland” and “the view never got any better”. 

Other visitors said they were disappointed with some of their tour guides’ choices.

One wrote: “Our guide took pleasure in telling about people being tortured here. It was a bit grizzly [sic]. Personally I would give the place a miss.” 

Tourists sit under the archway of the Doge's Palace in Venice

The Doge’s Palace in Venice, which some visitors found abit “samey”. Photo by Marco BERTORELLO / AFP

Pompeii 

Even the Pompeii archaeological site, which consists of the ruins of a city buried under volcanic ash following the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD, has its fair share of detractors.

A reviewer described the site as being “poorly paved street after poorly paved street of pretty much the same old same old terraced house over and over and over and over”.

Another said: “I really don’t get what the hype is about.

“It’s not even that ancient since they had to build so many structures around it to keep it standing. Even the freaking pillars didn’t make it (some barely did I guess).”

One reviewer even went as far as saying it was the “worst place” he’d ever visited, mentioning he had “too much ground to cover in sweltering heat” and he “should have stayed at the nice beaches of Vico Equense”. 

Trevi Fountain, Rome

A prime example of Italian Baroque aesthetics, the Trevi fountain is one of Rome’s most widely recognised symbols worldwide, but not all visitors are impressed by it.

“It splashes and splashes. It spurtles and flows. It fountains and gurgles and is as romantic as my oldest pairs of smelly socks,” wrote one reviewer, who concluded they felt “let down”.

Tourists around Rome's Trevi Fountain

Tourists around Rome’s Trevi Fountain in March 2024. Photo by Alberto PIZZOLI / AFP

That said, many reviewers expressed appreciation for the fountain’s architecture, but complained that their visit was ruined by hordes of fellow tourists. These complaints are far from unjustified given the attraction’s long-standing overcrowding issues

One reviewer suggested that “packing a pair of 8 foot stilts” may be the only way to “ensure a satisfying visit to the Trevi”.

Another called the attraction a “claustrophobia mecca” that’s “nearly impossible to deal with because of the thousands of pushy, sweaty, rude and large tourists”.

Have you seen a surprising review of an Italian landmark? Are there any Italian sights you think are overrated? Let us know in the comments section below.

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