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INSIDE ITALY

Inside Italy: New Italians, Easter holidays and Berlusconi’s secret tunnel

In this week’s Inside Italy review, we look at why hundreds of thousands of Italian children are described as foreign, why Italians don't get a day off work on Good Friday, and how a secret tunnel came to be behind a bookcase in one of Berlusconi's mansions.

Inside Italy: New Italians, Easter holidays and Berlusconi's secret tunnel
Italy's Good Friday events may seem lively to outsiders, but it's seen as a day of mourning among Catholics in the country. (Photo by MARCELLO PATERNOSTRO / AFP)

New Italians

Another week, another incendiary and divisive statement from League party leader Matteo Salvini. 

This time, the deputy prime minister of Italy is not sticking up for the Russian regime, or crusading against the construction of cycle paths. Instead, he’s targeting schoolchildren – particularly “foreign” ones, of which he insists there are too many in Italy’s schools. 

He was weighing in on the decision of one school in Lombardy where 40 percent of pupils are Muslim to close on the final day of Ramadan – unsurprisingly, he wasn’t supportive – and went on to say that the country must introduce a limit of “20 percent of foreign children per class”, as he claimed most “don’t speak Italian” and this causes “chaos”.

It’s tempting to dismiss these comments as just more unfounded, populist nonsense from the leader of a proudly anti-immigrant party. But they’ve also had a big impact. Salvini’s adoption of the topic means it has gone from simmering in certain corners of the internet to being seized upon by national press and mainstream TV talk shows as fodder for supposedly serious debate. As a result, this has been a trending topic on Italian social media for days, and was even the main talking point among regulars at my local coffee bar this morning.

Education Minister Giuseppe Valditara on Thursday voiced support for Salvini and pledged that the government would “take measures” to ensure the majority of children in each Italian school are Italian, in order to improve “assimilation” among non-Italians. It’s unclear whether the ministers know that Italy already has such a limit in place.

It seems clear from the context that that the type of “foreign” schoolchildren Salvini believes there are too many of come from countries which are not European, or Christian. But in fact, hundreds of thousands of the children he’s referring to were born and raised in Italy.

This is not something many of the TV debates mention. But Italy’s cruel and unusual rules on the acquisition of citizenship mean that children born to non-Italian parents in Italy must wait until they are 18 to apply for citizenship, and then they have just one year to do so, or face a years-long wait – meaning they’re subject to tougher requirements and a far longer waiting time than any other applicants. Lawyers describe this process as the “longest administrative procedure in Italy”, which is saying a lot.

If the Italian government really thinks these children need to better “assimilate” into Italian life and culture, perhaps changing the rules excluding them from Italian citizenship could be a place to start.

Easter celebrations – or not

Easter is a rare case when we in Italy get less time off work than our colleagues around Europe. Non-Italians are often surprised to learn that Good Friday is not a holiday in Italy – which, as we discussed in last week’s newsletter, is an overwhelmingly Catholic country, in which many religious festivals are also public holidays.

The explanation for this is essentially that, for Catholics, there’s nothing to celebrate (and no mass held). Though some of the theatrical displays and spectacular processions put on to mark the occasion may not feel especially sombre to outsiders, Good Friday here is a day of mourning marking the day that Christians believe Jesus died on the cross.

Why is Good Friday not a holiday in Italy?

Easter Sunday, however, is time to party – Italian style, with an enormous meal, perhaps after mass if your family attends – while Easter Monday is traditionally spent with friends or extended family. It’s also very common to take a trip over the three-day weekend. Or four, as many people take the Friday off work anyway.

Berlusconi’s secret tunnel

The late Silvio Berlusconi is still making headlines and causing intrigue. This week, members of Italy’s Foreign Press Association were thrilled to discover one of the more unexpected features of their new headquarters at Palazzo Graziola in Rome, a building formerly used by Berlusconi: a real-life secret passageway hidden behind a bookcase.

The passageway is thought to have officially been an emergency escape route – though the international journalists who’ve just moved in wondered what other uses it may have been put to in Berlusconi’s time.

This feature may not be too surprising to anyone who remembers headlines from 2012 about Berlusconi’s lavish Sardinian estate concealing what the UK press described as “a James-Bond style secret underground cave” complete with swimming pool and another escape tunnel – this one leading directly to the sea.

Berlusconi said at the time that he’d been advised to build the hidden cave by secret services following death threats, and had sought advice from Pietro Lunardi, a colleague who had been serving as infrastructure minister, meaning its construction hadn’t broken any planning laws – phew.

As new uses are found for the many buildings around Italy once used by the billionaire former PM, and much of his vast estate is expected to be divided up and sold off in the coming years, who knows what other secrets will be uncovered?

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INSIDE ITALY

Inside Italy: Fascist salutes and Rome’s plan to clean up

In this week's Inside Italy newsletter, we look at plans to give the city of Rome a makeover in time for the Jubilee and what Italians think of revelations of racism in the ruling party's youth wing.

Inside Italy: Fascist salutes and Rome's plan to clean up

It took her more than two weeks, but Italian Prime Minister Giorgia Meloni on Friday publicly condemned the racist comments made by members of her far-right party’s youth wing revealed in an undercover investigation that has been dominating Italian headlines.

In case you haven’t seen or heard about it yet, the video published this month by Italian news website Fanpage showed members of the National Youth, the junior wing of Brothers of Italy (FdI), engaging in fascist salutes, chanting the Nazi “Sieg Heil” greeting and shouting “Duce” in support of late Italian fascist dictator Benito Mussolini.

Meloni didn’t mention any of that on Friday, but she did address some of the comments youth members made on the video, saying that “racist, anti-Semitic or nostalgic ideas” were “incompatible” with her party.

While Meloni distances herself and her party from its neofascist roots and any associations with Mussolini’s regime, she has never denounced fascism entirely, and seems to shy away from using the word at all.

Still, she claimed that there was “no ambiguity” over the issue on her part – while also complaining that journalists should not be filming without permission.

After more revelations of racist and hateful comments by youth wing members came out of the investigation this week, it looks like this storm isn’t going to blow over as quickly as Meloni probably hoped.

Usually, news stories about Italian political figures displaying their admiration for fascism provoke less public outrage in Italy than you might expect. There has never been a palpable sense of widespread anger at, say, Brothers of Italy co-founder and Senate president Ignazio La Russa proudly collecting Mussolini statues.

Overall, attitudes to extreme political viewpoints in Italy tend to be permissive in a way that they’re not in, for example, Germany on the topic of Nazism.

But the latest story about the youth wing seems to have hit a nerve with the public in the way similar reports in the past haven’t. Perhaps because it seems so anomalous.

In my experience, when talking to younger Italians it’s clear that most today see such views as abhorrent, severely outdated, or just (as Italian kids say) “cringe”. Thankfully, those members of FdI’s youth wing seen in the video represent only an extreme minority.

Rome’s Jubilee makeover

In other news this week, could the Italian capital finally be cleaning up its act?

The city council has announced plans to install 18,000 new rubbish bins and 120 public toilets as part of a €3 million renovation project ahead of the Jubilee Year 2025.

This was welcome news for residents and regular visitors, most of whom have long since given up on trying to find public bathrooms in the city and rely on using the facilities at cafes and bars instead.

It also followed the recent announcement of thousands more taxi licences for the city, while major works are also ongoing to improve Rome’s notoriously unreliable public transport system in time for the Jubilee year, when millions more visitors than usual are set to descend.

“The city will face an extraordinary influx of tourists and pilgrims, who we will have to assist in their most immediate needs,” Rome mayor Roberto Gualtieri said as he announced the plans this week.

This does beg the question of how a major European capital city in 2024 can lack such basic public services, and why these problems are only now being tackled for the convenience of tourists after years (or, in some cases, decades) of complaints from long-suffering city residents.

So maybe it wasn’t surprising that many Romans greeted the announcement by drily pointing out that the city will also have to ensure all these toilets are cleaned, and the bins emptied and waste dealt with – something the local authority has long struggled to do efficiently, and which few residents can believe they’ll have sorted by 2025.

But we can at least hope that it’s a case of meglio tardi che mai (better late than never). The current local administration is showing the political will to start tackling these issues. And importantly, there’s the money to pay for it. Much of the major renovation work going on in the city right now is covered fully or in part by European post-Covid recovery funds – so it really is now or never.

If you’re still feeling sceptical, just watch this video of Gualtieri showing off one of his new bins: he seems genuinely thrilled with it.

Rome’s shiny new bins even have an official name: Cestò – which is a play on the word cesto (basket or bin) and the Roman dialect phrase ce stà, meaning ‘it’s in’ – and their own slightly cheesy slogan, which Gualtieri demonstrates for us here: “Io ce sto, e tu?” (I’m in, are you?)

Inside Italy is our weekly look at some of the news and talking points in Italy that you might not have heard about. It’s published each Saturday and members can receive it directly to their inbox, by going to their newsletter preferences or adding their email to the sign-up box in this article.

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