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CLIMATE CRISIS

‘Extreme’ climate blamed for world’s worst wine harvest in 62 years

World wine production dropped 10 percent last year, the biggest fall in more than six decades, because of "extreme" climate changes, the body that monitors the trade said on Thursday.

'Extreme' climate blamed for world's worst wine harvest in 62 years
A vineyard in Saint-Emilion, southwestern France. Photo by Christophe ARCHAMBAULT / AFP

“Extreme environmental conditions” including droughts, fires and other problems with climate were mostly to blame for the drastic fall, said the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV) that covers nearly 50 wine producing countries.

Australia and Italy suffered the worst, with 26 and 23 percent drops. Spain lost more than a fifth of its production. Harvests in Chile and South Africa were down by more than 10 percent.

The OIV said the global grape harvest was the worst since 1961, and worse even than its early estimates in November.

In further bad news for winemakers, customers drank three per cent less wine in 2023, the French-based intergovernmental body said.

Director John Barker highlighted “drought, extreme heat and fires, as well as heavy rain causing flooding and fungal diseases across major northern and southern hemisphere wine producing regions.”

Although he said climate problems were not solely to blame for the drastic fall, “the most important challenge that the sector faces is climate change.

“We know that the grapevine, as a long-lived plant cultivated in often vulnerable areas, is strongly affected by climate change,” he added.

France bucked the falling harvest trend, with a four percent rise, making it by far the world’s biggest wine producer.

Wine consumption last year was however at its lowest level since 1996, confirming a fall-off over the last five years, according to the figures.

The trend is partly due to price rises caused by inflation and a sharp fall in wine drinking in China – down a quarter – due to its economic slowdown.

The Portuguese, French and Italians remain the world’s biggest wine drinkers per capita.

Barker said the underlying decrease in consumption is being “driven by demographic and lifestyle changes. But given the very complicated influences on global demand at the moment,” it is difficult to know whether the fall will continue.

“What is clear is that inflation is the dominant factor affecting demand in 2023,” he said.

Land given over to growing grapes to eat or for wine fell for the third consecutive year to 7.2 million hectares (17.7 million acres).

But India became one of the global top 10 grape producers for the first time with a three percent rise in the size of its vineyards.

France, however, has been pruning its vineyards back slightly, with its government paying winemakers to pull up vines or to distil their grapes.

The collapse of the Italian harvest to its lowest level since 1950 does not necessarily mean there will be a similar contraction there, said Barker.

Between floods and hailstones, and damp weather causing mildew in the centre and south of the country, the fall was “clearly linked to meteorological conditions”, he said.

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FOOD AND DRINK

RANKED: The best pizza places in Spain

Italians are purists about their pizzas (no pineapple, per favore) so there’s no one better to judge the best pizza places in Europe. According to the connoisseurs, two of the top five pizzerias on the continent are in Spain.

RANKED: The best pizza places in Spain

50 Top Pizza is an international guide written by Italian “pizza inspectors”, who each year rank the best pizzerias on earth, outside of Italy. 

“They visit the pizzerias anonymously, they pay the bill and leave without revealing themselves”, according to 50 Top Pizza.

This year, in their Top Pizza Europa 2024 list, seven of the top 50 pizzerieas were located in Spain.

In fact, two of the five best ranked pizza restaurants in Europe are in Spain, and four in the top ten. 

So if you’re a pizza lover who wants to eat the finest pizzas available in España, here’s where you can find the best.

Sartoria Panatieri, Barcelona

With two locations now in the Catalan capital, Sartoria Panatieri, run by Rafa Panatieri and Jorge Sastre, was ranked as number two in the whole of Europe and came in at number one last year. They were praised for their artisanal products and ingredients. Their signature classic is a pizza topped with stracciatella di burrata, tomatoes, and basil pesto with toasted pine nuts.

Baldoria, Madrid

In at number five on the list is Baldoria, located in the Salamanca district of Madrid (last year it came in 13th place). Judges gushed about its simple menu of just seven pizzas and singled out the marinara and Margherita as the best.

READ ALSO: A bite-sized guide to Spain’s most special cheeses

La Balmesina, Barcelona

Another Barcelona pizzeria in the top 10 in Europe was La Balmesina at number nine. It was chosen particularly for its dough made with only wholemeal flour and a fermentation of at least 72 hours. The standout pizza was the vegetarian Giana with mozzarella, ricotta, fresh cherry tomatoes, fried aubergine, parmesan and basil.

Fratelli Figurato, Madrid

Madrid again featured in the top 10, with Fratelli Figurato just making it at number 10. Brothers Riccardo and Vittorio Figurato serve up contemporary Neapolitan-style pizzas, where the dough is the real star of the show. The Bufalina and Provola are the top choices here.

Demaio, Bilbao

Number 17 on the list went to the best pizza in the Basque country, which now has two locations in Bilbao. Run by three brothers from Calabria in Italy, it was celebrated for its rich ingredients. It serves both Neapolitan and Roman-style pizzas.

READ ALSO – El Esmorzaret: What is Valencia’s sacred snack tradition?

Gasparic, Girona

Located in the medieval village of Can Blanc in Girona, Gesparic came in at number 38. It dishes up Neapolitan-style pizzas from a wood-fired oven, made with ingredients sourced directly from Italy.

Infraganti, Alicante

Coming in at number 41 is this Neapolitan-style pizzeria in Alicante, which now also has branches in Murcia, El Campello, and Elche. It was applauded for its authentic flavours and lively atmosphere with the Quattro Formaggi being one of the best choices on the menu.

Oro di Napoli, Tenerife

This Tenerife pizzeria in the south of the island didn’t make the top 50 this year, but in 2023 it came in at number 41, meaning it’s still among the best in Spain. Traditional Neapolitan pizzas are the order of the day here, with the Margherita getting top marks.

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