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CULTURE

France’s renowned Arles photo fest goes ‘beneath the surface’

One of the world’s most renowned photo festivals, in the French town of Arles, returned this week with a timely ode to diversity at a moment France appears to be turning towards the far right.

Visitors walk past photographs by French Marine Lanier on the opening day of Les Rencontres d'Arles photography festival
Visitors walk past photographs by French Marine Lanier on the opening day of Les Rencontres d'Arles photography festival. (Photo by Nicolas TUCAT / AFP)

The Rencontres festival, which runs until September 29th, is spread across 27 venues in the ancient cobbled streets of the former Roman town in Provence and has been running since 1970.

This year’s theme is ‘Beneath the Surface’, seeking to delve into diversity without the usual caricatures around minorities.

The star exhibition is a world-first retrospective for US portrait artist Mary Ellen Mark (1940-2015), who worked for magazines like Life and Rolling Stone.

One of her celebrated images features an Icelandic child resting on the neck of a horse that focuses attention away from the boy’s disability.

Mark “devoted a lot of time and attention to her protagonists, in a few cases returning to photograph them again and again over the course of many years, forging close relationships with many,” said co-curator Sophia Greiff.

An example is Tiny, whom Mark followed from her years on the street falling into drug use, to tender moments with her children.

“What I’m trying to do is make photographs that are universally understood… that cross cultural lines,” Mark once said.

Elsewhere at the festival, Spanish photographer Cristina de Middel presents documentary and dreamlike work about migrants travelling from Mexico to the US.

She ignores the usual tropes around migration, presenting the crossing as a heroic epic of courageous men and women heading towards a new life.

By mixing documentary images with staged and poetic photos, “it gives each person back their personality and restores a level of humanity in their representation,” said festival director Christoph Wiesner.

He said the message was particularly vital given the rise of the far right in France, which came top in the recent first round of snap legislative elections.

“Just because the situation is complex, we cannot just give up,” said Wiesner, highlighting the festival’s regular work on issues around feminism and anti-racism, including presentations in local schools.

Other exhibitions this year include I’m So Happy You’re Here, featuring the work of 20 Japanese female photographers.

Another invites visitors into the ‘baroque of everyday life’ in the Indian state of Punjab with shots of bizarre roof sculptures that locals have brought back after working abroad, including footballs, tanks, planes and lions.

French artist Sophie Calle presents her images alongside responses from blind people about their understanding of visual beauty.

“Green is beautiful, because every time I like something I’m told it’s green,” reads one caption alongside a shot of vivid grass.

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DISCOVER FRANCE

5 things to know about France’s Fêtes de Bayonne

For five days in July, part of south-west France transforms itself into a Basque-hued Party Town - here's what you need to know about this special festival.

5 things to know about France's Fêtes de Bayonne

Known for drawing large crowds, the five-day Fêtes de Bayonne is a celebration of parties, street performances, traditional dances, the famous bull run, and fireworks.

It’s held in the town of Bayonne deep in south-west France, close to the border with Spain. The town is in the Pays Basque, part of France’s Basque-speaking region and the festival is a celebration is Basque culture.

You can buy a traditional outfit (in white and red) at a local market nearby to better join in the celebration. 

This year, the event will run from July 10th until the 14th. You can find more information here, where you can also buy a bracelet that grants entry to festival areas.

It started with rugby

The first Fêtes de Bayonne were declared open on Wednesday July 13th, 1932, after former Aviron Bayonnais rugby players returning from the San Fermines festivities in Pamplona launched the idea of organising a similar gathering in Bayonne.

The mayor of the time, Joseph Garat, endorsed the project, a Fêtes committee was set up, and the rest is, as they say, history.

There’s a ‘uniform’

Of sorts. Over the years, the unofficial dress code among Fêtes de Bayonne attendees (known as festayre) has evolved: in the 1970s, blue workwear and sailor’s shirt style gave way to a white outfit decorated with a red scarf and cinta (a sash worn around the waist).

The idea is that all the festayres – festival-goers – are on equal footing.

READ ALSO 26 unmissable summer 2024 festivals and events in France

It has a king

Léon is the king of Bayonne. Well, more a mascot, if we’re being strictly honest. Every year, Léon appears on the balcony of the Mairie at 10pm on the first day of the event to officially open the five-day festival, looking over a sea of white-clad attendees. After the clock strikes 10, the party goers can tie scarves around their necks and get the party started.

During the five-day festival Léon performs for the children daily at 12noon.

It’s unique in south-west France

Of all the major festive gatherings in the south of France, those in Bayonne are the only ones that are called Fêtes, rather than ferias.

The emphasis is on the festive traditions of the Basque Country and Gascony, which are expressed in games, dances, music and songs.

It’s controversial 

The Fêtes de Bayonne does feature the controversial ‘sport’ of bullfighting. 

The Fêtes de Bayonne has a strong Basque identity, and bullfighting is a traditional part of the event. This programme features a bull run, two corridas, on July 12th and 13th, and another event on Sunday, July 14th.

READ ALSO La corrida: Why south-west France’s Bayonne Festival is controversial

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