SHARE
COPY LINK

ELYSEE

Minister slams Elysée’s cooking as ‘disgusting’

Not all Parisian restaurants live up to their billing, including the presidential palace it seems. A French minister described the grub served up by the Elysée chefs for a state banquet for the Chinese leader this week as “disgusting”.

Minister slams Elysée's cooking as 'disgusting'
Chefs gather at the Elysée Palace to celebrate French gastronomy gaining World Heritage Status. One French Minister described the palace's own grub as disgusting. Photo: Lionel Bonaventure/AFP

France certainly rolled out the red carpet for the visit of the Chinese President Xi Jinping in a bid to do everything it could to impress the leader of the far-eastern giant.

That included a slap-up official meal at the Elysée Palace, where the resident chefs were charged with cooking up the best of what French cuisine had to offer. 

We will probably never know whether the food went down well with Xi himself but one French minister was certainly not impressed.

In an embarassing gaffe Nicole Bricq, minister for foreign commerce, aired her views with Prime Minister Jean-Marc Ayrault and his wife Brigitte. Unluckily for her, the conversation was held in the vicinity of dozens of journalists’ microphones.

Bricq said that the meal, which included the famous French delicacy foie gras, a viennoise de champignons, was “dégueulasse”, or disgusting. 

Comparing the cuisine to that served up at the Prime Minister’s residence, known as Matignon, Bricq was heard saying: “I told Brigitte, that really, compared to Matignon, the Elysée doesn’t even come close. It was nowhere near. It was disgusting. You just have to say it."

The video below, released by the Elysée shows the chefs preparing for the no-expense spared state dinner.

For France’s sake we have to hope Xi Jinping did not have the same opinion. The state meal came after he had overseen the signing of €18 billion worth of vital trade deals in France and the French government is desperate for China to increase its investment in France even further.

On the first leg of their trip, in Lyon, XI and his wife Peng Liyuan were treated to sea bass with lobster sauce followed by hay and thyme-flavoured lamb cooked by a selection of France's most celebrated chefs.

It is not known what was on the menu of the state dinner, but on his official Facebook page, Elysee chef Guillaume Gomez appeared to react to Bricq's comments by thanking those who had sent him messages of support.

"Along with the squad, we will continue to do our job with the same passion and the same devotion," he wrote.

One of those messages of support said Bricq was clearly "too spoilt".

"In any case, next week she will be fired. It was her last dinner at the Elysee," the commenter added, referring to the strong likelihood of a government reshuffle after the second round of local elections Sunday in which the ruling Socialists are expected to get trounced.

Wednesday's state dinner was followed up on Thursday night by an enormous state banquet at Palace of Versailles, where Xi was treated to 18 courses of classic French gastronomy, served up by the country's top chef Alain Ducasse.

The courses rolled out of the kitchen at a rate of one every eight minutes. Click on the link below to see what was on the menu.

The lavish 18-course banquet France served up to Xi Jinping

Member comments

Log in here to leave a comment.
Become a Member to leave a comment.
For members

FOOD AND DRINK

9 delicious French dishes to try this summer

It’s almost impossible to imagine a ‘bad time’ for food lovers in France – summer certainly isn’t one, with a huge range of fresh, flavourful and light produce easily available. Here’s a few of our favourites.

9 delicious French dishes to try this summer

Salade niçoise

Summer is the season of salads and seafood in France. Which brings us immediately to arguably the most classic of French summer classic dishes, traditionally made with tomatoes and anchovies, dressed with olive oil.

All the extra stuff you’ll see in a modern version – hard-boiled eggs, olives, lettuce, green beans, tuna were added later and French people can get quite agitated over the question of potatoes in a salade niçoise.

Speaking of . . .

Pan bagnat

A pan bagnat is, basically, salad niçoise in sandwich form. But the secret to a proper pan bagnat is in the bread. It’s a traditional, rustic sandwich made using stale bread that has been refreshed by a trickle of water.

The clue is in the name – it literally means ‘bathed bread’. And a proper pan bagnat can only come from and use ingredients from Provence. Otherwise it’s just a (mostly) vegetable sandwich.

Tomates farcies

Potagers up and down France have tomato plants in them right now, and they’re all – hopefully – giving good fruit. Enter the many stuffed tomato recipes to cope with the glut. Expect variations on a sausage meat, onions, garlic, salt-and-pepper theme.

Of course, a simple tomato salad (perhaps with a little cheese and a sprinkle of basil) is also a joy to behold.

Flan de courgette

As it is with tomatoes, so it is with courgettes. Gardeners the length and breadth of France are wondering what to do with the sheer mass of fruit their plants are giving out.

The simple and delicious courgette flan covers many a base – and also incorporates French cuisine favourites ham and cheese. Usually served warm.

Ratatouille

It’s probably illegal not to mention the famously rustic ratatouille in any piece about French summer recipes.

The dish you probably know – with tomatoes, courgettes, aubergines, pepper and garlic – is from Provence. But there are variation on this vegetable stew that you’ll find across the Mediterranean arc – think piperade, from southwest France, bohémienne, from Vaucluse, or chichoumeille, from Languedoc. 

They’re all delicious and they’ll all give you your five-a-day.

Tarte au chèvre et au concombre

Cucumbers are typical salad fare. They can be added to drinks, used to make chilled soups and detox cocktails. But you can also cook with them. Seek out a recipe for goat’s cheese and cucumber tart.

Vichyssoise

A chilled soup, perfect on a summer’s day, with a French name, created by a French chef. This chilled leek-and-potato soup actually first appeared, around 1910, as a dish at the Ritz-Carlton hotel in New York. But it has its basis in France. The chef who created it, Louis Félix Diat, said that it was inspired by his mother, who taught him how to cook. 

Chilled soups are a great bet on a hot day and you’ll see dozens of variations on menus, from cucumber to melon via variations on gazpacho (which is Spanish but the French very sensibly embrace it).

Tapenade

Black olives, garlic, anchovies, capers, olive oil. A blender. And you’ve got a delicious, simple ‘tartiner’ for a slice of toast or crusty bread. Try it. You’ll thank us.

Moules à la crème

Shellfish and summer go hand in glove. Moules-frites are hugely popular, with good reason.

But this summer moules recipe is, despite the creaminess, a little lighter overall. As always, there are always regional variations on a theme – do look out for moules à la normande, in particular.

What’s your favourite French dish on a hot day? Share your recommendations in the comments section below

SHOW COMMENTS