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RACISM

ANALYSIS: Spain is not the US but it is in denial about racism

Spain's relationship with racism is different to that of the US but that doesn't mean it isn't troubled and things don't need to change, writes Inigo Alexander. The reaction of the makers of controversial sweets has laid bare how Spain still has a lot of ground to cover, Inigo Alexander explains.

ANALYSIS: Spain is not the US but it is in denial about racism
A protesters holds a placard reading "Racism is a pandemic" in Madrid, on June 7, 2020, during a demonstration against racism and in solidarity with the Black Lives Matter movement. AFP

A popular chocolate sweet has brought to light the bitter truths behind Spain’s troubled relationship with racism. In the wake of the global protests against racial injustice following the murder of George Floyd, many companies have been scrutinised for their use of racial branding and imagery. 

Among them are Spain’s chocolate-covered peanut treats Conguitos, which feature a dark figure with large red lips as its mascot. As a result of the global protests, an online petition was created demanding Lacasa, the company behind the product, remove its Conguitos imagery and issue a public apology. 

Unlike brands across the US such as Uncle Ben’s and Aunt Jemima, Lacasa has defended its use of the racialised imagery and issued a statement defending the mascot’s “friendly character” and “good vibes”. 

A similarly contemptuous reaction was seen online, with Twitter users taking a jibe at the petition’s demands by creating the hashtag #ConguitoLivesMatter, which later became a trending topic in Spain.

The response has laid bare Spain’s failure to come to terms with issues of racism and revealed that the country still has a lot of ground to cover if it is to shift the national psyche.

“Spain’s relationship with racism is different than it is in the US, and so attitudes toward race are different,” explains Diana Palardy, professor of Spanish at Youngstown State University and author of The Evolution of Conguitos: Changing the Face of Race in Spanish Advertising.

A primary example of this is the habitual use of Blackface during popular celebrations across Spain, which has drawn criticism in the past. In January 2019, hundreds of teenagers in the town of Alcoy donned Blackface and red lips as part of the traditional Three Kings parade celebration. 

“Blackface makes people very uncomfortable in the US, due in large part to the history of minstrel shows. However, in Spain, there is a very different reaction because they do not have that tradition, nor the history of chattel slavery, followed by years of Jim Crow laws. In Spain, Blackface may be more associated with childhood nostalgia, so it has much different connotations,” Palardy states. 

This lackadaisical and dismissive approach allows Spain to distance itself from issues of racism, which have very rarely held any importance in the national agenda. So much so, that Spain is one of only two Council of Europe countries not to have its own independent national racism watchdog, along with the micro-state of San Marino.

AFP. Protesters hold Spanish and Catalan Senyera flags along with Cross of Burgundy flags during a demonstration organised by Spain's far-right Vox party to preserve a statue of Christopher Columbus in Barcelona on June 27, 2020 as statues of slave traders and colonial figures tumble worldwide in a wave of anger against racism.

“When we talk about racism people think that we’re talking about when someone insults you or assaults you, but that is only a small part, that’s just what you see,” explains Alba García Martín, a member of the anti-racism NGO SOS Racismo.

Last year, Spain’s National Security Council warned the government about a rise in xenophobia and racist hate crimes, while a study from the Universidad de Valencia found that black people in Spain are seven times more likely to be stopped by the police than white people. There have also been numerous counts of racial discrimination towards prospective tenants and home-buyers. 

Though not as common as in the US, instances of racist police brutality have also been experienced. Most recently, the Senegalese street vendor Mame Mbaye died of a cardiac arrest after he collapsed while being chased by police officers in Madrid. 

Whereas in 2016, an off-duty Guardia Civil officer shot and killed a Moroccan father-of-two. When asked why he had done so, his reply was simply: “before an Arab blows us up with a bomb, I’ll blow him to bits first.” His sentence was reduced in 2019 on grounds of mental health.

“There is very little perception that Spain is a racist country, from its laws to its education. Issues with race are structural issues, and we’ve always denounced them as such,” says García Martín.

Protesters hold placards reading “Racism kills” in Barcelona, on June 7, 2020, during a demonstration against racism and in solidarity with the Black Lives Matter movement. AFP

She identifies Spain’s immigration laws as a key element that upholds said structural issues that foster such racial negligence. 

“The immigration law is racist to its core. It is a law that does not allow you to regularise your migration status for three years, it pushes immigrants to employment off-the-books and is a law that does not provide you any kind of rights as a citizen.

“All the other racial issues derive from this law. There is no anti-racist legislation, for example, for crimes related to racism. There are just no anti-racist laws,” she adds. 

García Martín criticises this ingrained racism and states that it has not allowed for a national dialogue on the issue to come about, therefore delaying attempts to make amends. 

“There is no political will to create a space for dialogue on racism. It’s a historical denial of our colonial past, it’s as if it had not existed, as if it had not happened here,” she said.

For those struggling to understand Spanish society’s racial shortcomings and the issues that organisations like SOS Racismo work to shed a light on, García Martín has a simple message. 

“Open your eyes and listen to us.” A seemingly achievable task. 

 

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FOOD AND DRINK

OPINION: Why Spanish cakes and desserts aren’t among the best

Traditional Spanish baked goods and puddings just don't seem to be as good or as well-known as their European counterparts from France, Italy, the UK and Portugal, do you agree? Read on to discover the reasons why this might be.

OPINION: Why Spanish cakes and desserts aren't among the best

Spain is known throughout the world for its cuisine – olive-oil drizzled plates of tapas, fragrant seafood paellas and delicate Basque pintxos, so many people come here ready to be wowed by the cakes and desserts too.

Unfortunately, they sometimes leave disappointed by the sweet offerings here in Spain. Foreign British residents often complain about the standard of pastries and cakes compared to back home, while other foreign residents such as Swedes, French and Portuguese tend to set up their own bakeries or prefer to shop at those owned by their fellow countrymen.

Firstly, it’s not that Spanish cakes and puddings are bad, it’s simply that they are not as delectable as those found in some other European countries. They are not as famous either when compared with Italy’s tiramisu and gelato, England’s Bakewell tarts and hearty fruit cakes, Portugal’s pasteis de nata or Sweden’s cinnamon buns.

READ ALSO: Taste your way around Oviedo – Spain’s Capital of Gastronomy 2024 

Firstly, while Spain does have a lot of cakes and pastries there’s not much variety to them. For example, the Roscón de Reyes over Christmas, the Mona de Pascua at Easter and Catalan cocas eaten for Sant Joan are all essentially the same – sweet bread, perhaps with some candied fruit on top. Other traditional sweet bread include ensaimadas from Mallorca.

The Spanish Roscón de Reyes is typical Christmas dessert. Phtoo: Zarateman / Wikimedia Commons

Secondly, Spanish cuisine is celebrated for its simplicity – produce is the star of the show without much adulteration or mixing a lot of ingredients into one dish. Cakes are like that too – they don’t go in for elaborate cakes with lots of fillings and toppings like in the UK, they are simpler and often just filled with cream.

Cakes and pastries are usually quite plain in flavours too – you won’t often find Spanish coffee cakes, carrot cakes, lemon or ginger or the cardamom and cinnamon buns typical in northern Europe.

Usually, it’s just plain vanilla and maybe Nutella chocolate spread in some of the pastries. The exception of this is almond and aniseed, often used by nuns in their biscuits. But again, it’s not a very strong almond flavour like Italy’s amaretto cookies, it’s very subtle. Magdalenas, Spain’s version of a muffin, are again usually only found in one plain flavour – perhaps with a very subtle hint of lemon.

READ ALSO: 14 unusual foods you won’t believe are eaten in Spain 

It may seem odd because Spain has a lot of really good fruit, nuts and other produce that would taste great in a dessert, but Huelva’s strawberries, Extremadura’s figs, Valencia’s oranges and Asturian apples rarely feature in desserts, with the exception of ice cream, which Spaniards actually do really well.

People would rather eat these fruits on their own – unadulterated and without added extras like much of their other ingredients such as meat and seafood.

Even chocolate isn’t used a lot in desserts or cakes – apart from churros con chocolate or just the use of Nutella spread on top.

The next reason why Spanish repostería (confectionery and pastry-making) is not as elaborate as other European countries is that many of the most traditional pastries, biscuits and cakes were invented by nuns in Spain. This partly explains why they are so simple and often use up left over ingredients such as eggs. The nuns didn’t want to make overly complicated puddings that would take up a lot of time in their busy day. If you go to Andalusia, you can still buy many of these traditional biscuits and cakes from the nuns themselves in working convents.

Traditional almond cookies that were made by nuns in Spain. Photo: Dioni Santidrian / Wikimedia Commons

Desserts in Spain may be slightly better than the cakes, but again there’s not a lot of variety or different flavours, most of them are custardy or creamy concoctions made with eggs and milk. These include arroz con leche – Spain’s version of rice pudding, which is arguably better than its UK counterpart and does also feature cinnamon, crema Catalana (like France’s crème brûlée) and flan (like crème caramel). Bienmesabe again, whether the Canarian or the Antequera versions are made with egg yolks and almonds. Flan is probably the most common option for a menú del día dessert all around the country and is rather uninspiring, when it comes to sweet treats. 

READ ALSO: Where can you get free tapas in Spain? 

Also, dessert can be even more simplified, for example a piece of fruit or a yoghurt is often offered as a pudding when it comes to the menús del día in Spain. As mentioned, fruit isn’t used much in desserts, it’s seen as a perfectly good dessert in itself. Why mush up a strawberry to put in Eton mess (an English pudding made with strawberries, cream and meringue), when you can have it in its purest form?

In fact, if you go to any of Spain’s big multicultural cities, it’s the international bakeries and dessert places which are the most popular, rather than the local ones. In Barcelona for example there’s the Swedish Manso’s Café, the Jewish-inspired Lady Babka and Demasié which offers American-style cinnamon buns and cookies.

There are of course exceptions, Baluard being one of the best Catalan-owned bakeries, but even here, breads and pastries and have a decidedly French taste to them.

Having said all that, sweet treats do tend to improve the further north you go – the Basque Country and Galicia being some of the best. Could this be to do with the influence from nearby France and Portugal?

Galicia produces arguably one of Spain’s best cakes, loved by almost all international residents and Spaniards alike – the tarta de Santiago.

Originating in the city of Santiago de Compostela, it’s a dense almond cake – similar to a frangipane or Bakewell tart minus the pastry and the jam.

Galicia’s tarta de Santiago is one of Spain’s best cakes. Photo: Katrin Gilger / Wikimedia Commons

The Basque Country too excels in its desserts more so than the rest of Spain. It’s baked burnt cheesecakes have become world famous. Again though, they’re very simple – they don’t have any fruit toppings or added flavours – they don’t even have a biscuit base like the New York counterparts.

They are, however, delicious and should be sampled whenever you find yourself in that part of Spain. La Viña in San Sebastián is often said to do the best Basque cheesecake in Spain and it’s not just about the hype, their cheesecakes really are that good.

Torrijas are another Basque exception, which are delicious. This is Spain’s version of French toast and is a thick slice of brioche style bread soaked in milk and egg and then deep fried. They’re often flavoured with cinnamon and lemon peel and are slightly caramelised.

But whether or not Spanish sweets and treats stack up against a British sticky toffee pudding, an American pumpkin pie or a French tarte tatin is entirely down to personal opinion.

What do you think? Are Spanish cakes and desserts better than some people think, or do you agree with this article? Have your say below in comments section.

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