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Copenhagen’s new food market opens

With the opening of yet another food market in Copenhagen this weekend, the city is strengthening its brand as the gastro capital of Scandinavia. This time everyone should be able to afford it.

Copenhagen’s new food market opens
Copenhagen will now get yet another food market. "Kødbyen Mad & Marked" opens this weekend in the hip Meatpacking District in Vesterbro. Photo: Kødbyen Mad & Marked

Now it’s here: Copenhagen’s new food market in the hip Meatpacking District in Vesterbro. At the opening weekend, you can sample food from 62 stalls representing all corners of the world.

The new 1,400-square metre market “Kødbyen Mad & Marked” is located in one of the city’s hippest areas: Kødbyen in Vesterbro, where the parking lot at Flæsketorvet now has been converted into an open-air market.

It follows the success of Torvehallerne, which opened in September 2011 near Nørreport Station, and Copenhagen Street Food, which opened in April on Papirøen.

If you are in Copenhagen this weekend, you will be able to attend the grand opening on Saturday April 4th from 10-18:00 as well as on Sunday April 5th. For the rest of the summer, the market will be open every Saturday as well as the first Sunday of each month until September.

Fresh food and sharp prices

With all the different food offers in Copenhagen, which in many ways have popped up as a direct or indirect result of the city’s world-class restaurant Noma, one may wonder what is different this time?

There is a difference, however, the people behind Kødbyen Mad & Marked told Politiken. Keywords are fresh and affordable food – for everyone.

“The goal is to create a market that a single mother and a student will afford to visit every weekend,” Simon Bacon Kullegaard (28) told Politiken.

Kullegaard is one of the three founders of the market. The other two are his friends Christian Lundgaard Astorp (28) and Jacob Uhd Jepsen (42).

The new market will focus on “produces and food that you can feel, taste and smell,” according to its homepage. It will offer coffee, lunch and street food and fresh ingredients for your dinner at home.
Among the food the stalls offer are biodynamic meat, wine, eggs, sausages, bread … For a complete overview of this weekend’s stalls, visit the market’s homepage.

You can rent a stall for 625 or 750 Danish kroner.

Not Brick Lane or La Boqueria

For the past six months, the food-trio has visited food markets in London, Germany and the US and worked hard to persuade the municipality as well as food producers that this market is a good idea.
Although they have been inspired by markets elsewhere, however, they emphasise that this market will be one of a kind.

“One should not think that this is the Brick Lane Market or La Boqueria in Barcelona when visiting the market. One should think that this market has its own identity,” Kullegaard told Politiken.

Farmer’s Market in Denmark

The idea is to create something that resembled the Farmer’s Markets in the US and England. It has been difficult, however, to persuade the busy Danish farmers to set aside time and come to town to sell their products. The founders, however, are happy that they have succeeded in persuading quite a few to be part of the new market.
 

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READER QUESTIONS

Why can’t you get fresh fish in supermarkets in Denmark?

Given that nowhere in Denmark is more than 52km from the sea, fresh fish can be surprisingly hard to get hold of. When one of The Local's readers asked why, we tried to find the answer.

Why can't you get fresh fish in supermarkets in Denmark?

“A decent variety of fish in the supermarket is something we really miss,” the reader wrote in a comment to a recent article. “I regularly return to my old stamping ground on the Franco-Swiss border, hundreds of kilometres from the sea, and the fresh fish in the local Carrefour supermarket is invariably excellent. Why can’t they manage it in Odense, 20 minutes from the coast?” 

It’s hard not to sympathise. Denmark, after all, is practically all coast, with the country consisting of a peninsula and 1,419 islands. 

The Local started by asking the Danish Chamber of Commerce, which represents most of Denmark’s leading supermarket chains. 

“I have spoken with my colleague on the matter,” replied Lars Ohlsen, the chamber’s press chief. “We don’t have any research, but our best bet is that the business case does not work. That if the supermarkets had it on the shelves, they would not make a profit on them.” 

We then approached Royal Fish, one of the leading buyers and sellers of Danish fish, whose chief executive, Donald Kristensen, put the near non-existence of fresh fish counters in supermarkets down to Danish penny scrimping. 

“The main reason is that Danish people will not pay for fresh food,” he said. “In Denmark we don’t have a tradition of spending a lot of money on food. If you compare to other countries in Europe, it’s one of the countries where people spend the least.”

To get fresh fish in Denmark you usually have to go to a fishmonger or fishmarket, like this one at Copenhagen’s Torvehallerne. Photo: Liselotte Sabroe/Ritzau Scanpix

It’s not due to a shortage of fish, he stressed. Despite the decline of fish stocks in waters around Denmark and the crisis in the Danish fishing industry, there remains a lot to be caught in Danish waters. 

“We have plenty of fish but we export all of it to the rest of Europe,” he said. “We only work with fresh fish and 99 percent of it is exported to Germany, France, Spain, Italy, in fact all of Europe. 

“Danes also eat fish, but that is mainly at restaurants, ” he continued. “When we buy fish for private purposes, it’s mostly smoked fish, shrimps in brine, or canned mackerel.”

The closest Danish supermarkets come to fresh fish, outside flagship supermarkets in the big cities that is, is fish sold in gas-filled ‘MAP packs’, which can keep for longer on the shelves, he explained.

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