Read news from:
Austria
SHARE
COPY LINK

GASTRONOMY

Ferran Adrià: World’s top chef doesn’t want to go back into the kitchen

Ferran Adrià - "the most influential chef in the world" - is a man on a mission. Just not one that involves him having to run a restaurant.

Published: 29 June 2018 11:00 CEST
Ferran Adrià: World's top chef doesn't want to go back into the kitchen
Photo: AFP

The Catalan — whose elBulli restaurant was named the best on the planet a record five times — is out to prove that the wildly experimental dishes he pioneered there still cut the mustard.

In the seven years since he unexpectedly shut the legendary Costa Brava restaurant, with 3,000 people still on the waiting list for a table, simpler more earthy cooking has come into vogue. 

But the father of molecular cuisine, who brought the world the idea of “mandarin air”, eating smoke, caramelised quails, trout egg tempura and any number of foams and emulsions, told AFP that he has not stood still.   

“I have not stopped working” nor experimenting, he said, since he shuttered elBulli, which held the maximum three Michelin stars.   

Back then Adrià admitted that he was feeling a little jaded.    

But as he explains in a new 15-part documentary series about his incredible rise from dishwasher to culinary superstar, “elBulli: Story of a Dream”, which begins on Amazon Prime on Monday, he has well and truly got his mojo back.   

It is just that he doesn't want to go back to cooking at the stove day and night.

Famous chefs don't cook

“It makes no sense for me to open a restaurant,” he told AFP. “Why would I do that?

“Almost all the greatest chefs in the world — with a few exceptions — no longer actually cook. They taste, direct and conceive,” he said.   

Adrià has, however, helped his brother Albert to open six establishments in Barcelona, of which one, Enigma, he described as a “baby elBulli”.   

It came 95th in the latest “50 Best” world restaurants list.   

Instead he teaches at Harvard university, gives advice, and runs the elBulli foundation, funded by €12 million euros of private capital from the Spanish giants Telefonica and CaixaBank and the Italian coffee company Lavazza.   

A natural enthusiast every bit as whimsical and surprising in the flesh as his cooking, Adrià is more concerned about bringing on the next generation of master chefs.

He had a big hand in forming the trio of talents who have replaced him at the top of the global gastronomic tree: fellow Catalan Joan Roca (of El Celler de Can Roca in Girona), Italian Massimo Bottura (of Osteria Francescana in Modena) and the Dane Rene Redzepi of Noma fame. 

READ MORE: Spain dominates best Restaurant awards but misses top spot


Chef Joan Roca of El Celler de Can Roca. Photo: AFP

“I'd say 95 percent of the restaurants I have helped have been successful,” he added, acknowledging that he has worked with the Spanish chef Jose Andres of the Minibar in Washington DC, which has two Michelin stars.

'Techno-emotional cooking'

Adrià — who is still only 56 — is also working on a gastronomic innovation centre on the site of the old elBulli at Cala Montjoi, which is due to open five years behind schedule next year.

Rather than a molecular cuisine, he prefers to call his cooking “techno-emotional”.

“They say that I am out of fashion, that no one makes 'espumas' anymore (his light-as-air mousses). But thousands of restaurants across the world now use siphons,” said the “alchemist” The Guardian once called “the most imaginative generator of haute cuisine on the planet.”

He said his mission at elBulli's was to discover “the limits of the gastronomic experience”. In 17 years there he created 1,846 recipes, including a “crispy liquid”, a mousse of white beans and sea urchins and powdered foie gras.

Adrià said he hopes the new Amazon series — based on a previous television series about his work — will help demolish some of the myths about elBulli, which sparked controversy because of its use of chemical additives.   

“Salt is a lot worse for the health than any stabiliser,” he hit back.   

Another of his new passions is a project he calls his  “Bullipedia”, an enormous gastronomic encyclopedia for which the autodidact has plunged himself into studying 400 years of French cuisine.

“It is one of my big sources of inspiration” at the moment, with Chinese, Mexican, Peruvian and Japanese cooking.   

While the British and American press like to see Adrià as a symbol of the new hegemony of Spanish haute cuisine over the French, he told AFP that he was a “child of French nouvelle cuisine”, citing Michel Guerard, the Troisgros clan, Paul Bocuse and Alain Chapel as his main influences. 

 By AFP's Anna Pelegri  and Anne-Laure Mondesert 

READ ALSO: Chef Ferran Adrià to reopen Spain's El Bulli as food lab in 2019

For members

FOOD AND DRINK

OPINION: Why Spanish cakes and desserts aren’t among the best

Traditional Spanish baked goods and puddings just don't seem to be as good or as well-known as their European counterparts from France, Italy, the UK and Portugal, do you agree? Read on to discover the reasons why this might be.

Published: 20 September 2024 10:07 CEST
OPINION: Why Spanish cakes and desserts aren't among the best

Spain is known throughout the world for its cuisine – olive-oil drizzled plates of tapas, fragrant seafood paellas and delicate Basque pintxos, so many people come here ready to be wowed by the cakes and desserts too.

Unfortunately, they sometimes leave disappointed by the sweet offerings here in Spain. Foreign British residents often complain about the standard of pastries and cakes compared to back home, while other foreign residents such as Swedes, French and Portuguese tend to set up their own bakeries or prefer to shop at those owned by their fellow countrymen.

Firstly, it’s not that Spanish cakes and puddings are bad, it’s simply that they are not as delectable as those found in some other European countries. They are not as famous either when compared with Italy’s tiramisu and gelato, England’s Bakewell tarts and hearty fruit cakes, Portugal’s pasteis de nata or Sweden’s cinnamon buns.

READ ALSO: Taste your way around Oviedo – Spain’s Capital of Gastronomy 2024 

Firstly, while Spain does have a lot of cakes and pastries there’s not much variety to them. For example, the Roscón de Reyes over Christmas, the Mona de Pascua at Easter and Catalan cocas eaten for Sant Joan are all essentially the same – sweet bread, perhaps with some candied fruit on top. Other traditional sweet bread include ensaimadas from Mallorca.

The Spanish Roscón de Reyes is typical Christmas dessert. Phtoo: Zarateman / Wikimedia Commons

Secondly, Spanish cuisine is celebrated for its simplicity – produce is the star of the show without much adulteration or mixing a lot of ingredients into one dish. Cakes are like that too – they don’t go in for elaborate cakes with lots of fillings and toppings like in the UK, they are simpler and often just filled with cream.

Cakes and pastries are usually quite plain in flavours too – you won’t often find Spanish coffee cakes, carrot cakes, lemon or ginger or the cardamom and cinnamon buns typical in northern Europe.

Usually, it’s just plain vanilla and maybe Nutella chocolate spread in some of the pastries. The exception of this is almond and aniseed, often used by nuns in their biscuits. But again, it’s not a very strong almond flavour like Italy’s amaretto cookies, it’s very subtle. Magdalenas, Spain’s version of a muffin, are again usually only found in one plain flavour – perhaps with a very subtle hint of lemon.

READ ALSO: 14 unusual foods you won’t believe are eaten in Spain 

It may seem odd because Spain has a lot of really good fruit, nuts and other produce that would taste great in a dessert, but Huelva’s strawberries, Extremadura’s figs, Valencia’s oranges and Asturian apples rarely feature in desserts, with the exception of ice cream, which Spaniards actually do really well.

People would rather eat these fruits on their own – unadulterated and without added extras like much of their other ingredients such as meat and seafood.

Even chocolate isn’t used a lot in desserts or cakes – apart from churros con chocolate or just the use of Nutella spread on top.

The next reason why Spanish repostería (confectionery and pastry-making) is not as elaborate as other European countries is that many of the most traditional pastries, biscuits and cakes were invented by nuns in Spain. This partly explains why they are so simple and often use up left over ingredients such as eggs. The nuns didn’t want to make overly complicated puddings that would take up a lot of time in their busy day. If you go to Andalusia, you can still buy many of these traditional biscuits and cakes from the nuns themselves in working convents.

Traditional almond cookies that were made by nuns in Spain. Photo: Dioni Santidrian / Wikimedia Commons

Desserts in Spain may be slightly better than the cakes, but again there’s not a lot of variety or different flavours, most of them are custardy or creamy concoctions made with eggs and milk. These include arroz con leche – Spain’s version of rice pudding, which is arguably better than its UK counterpart and does also feature cinnamon, crema Catalana (like France’s crème brûlée) and flan (like crème caramel). Bienmesabe again, whether the Canarian or the Antequera versions are made with egg yolks and almonds. Flan is probably the most common option for a menú del día dessert all around the country and is rather uninspiring, when it comes to sweet treats. 

READ ALSO: Where can you get free tapas in Spain? 

Also, dessert can be even more simplified, for example a piece of fruit or a yoghurt is often offered as a pudding when it comes to the menús del día in Spain. As mentioned, fruit isn’t used much in desserts, it’s seen as a perfectly good dessert in itself. Why mush up a strawberry to put in Eton mess (an English pudding made with strawberries, cream and meringue), when you can have it in its purest form?

In fact, if you go to any of Spain’s big multicultural cities, it’s the international bakeries and dessert places which are the most popular, rather than the local ones. In Barcelona for example there’s the Swedish Manso’s Café, the Jewish-inspired Lady Babka and Demasié which offers American-style cinnamon buns and cookies.

There are of course exceptions, Baluard being one of the best Catalan-owned bakeries, but even here, breads and pastries and have a decidedly French taste to them.

Having said all that, sweet treats do tend to improve the further north you go – the Basque Country and Galicia being some of the best. Could this be to do with the influence from nearby France and Portugal?

Galicia produces arguably one of Spain’s best cakes, loved by almost all international residents and Spaniards alike – the tarta de Santiago.

Originating in the city of Santiago de Compostela, it’s a dense almond cake – similar to a frangipane or Bakewell tart minus the pastry and the jam.

Galicia’s tarta de Santiago is one of Spain’s best cakes. Photo: Katrin Gilger / Wikimedia Commons

The Basque Country too excels in its desserts more so than the rest of Spain. It’s baked burnt cheesecakes have become world famous. Again though, they’re very simple – they don’t have any fruit toppings or added flavours – they don’t even have a biscuit base like the New York counterparts.

They are, however, delicious and should be sampled whenever you find yourself in that part of Spain. La Viña in San Sebastián is often said to do the best Basque cheesecake in Spain and it’s not just about the hype, their cheesecakes really are that good.

Torrijas are another Basque exception, which are delicious. This is Spain’s version of French toast and is a thick slice of brioche style bread soaked in milk and egg and then deep fried. They’re often flavoured with cinnamon and lemon peel and are slightly caramelised.

But whether or not Spanish sweets and treats stack up against a British sticky toffee pudding, an American pumpkin pie or a French tarte tatin is entirely down to personal opinion.

What do you think? Are Spanish cakes and desserts better than some people think, or do you agree with this article? Have your say below in comments section.

SHOW COMMENTS