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BORDEAUX

Bordeaux: Reasons to move to France’s ‘wine capital’

The elegant southern French city of Bordeaux is a popular holiday spot, but France-based writer Bella Dally-Steele argues that it's also the perfect place to move to.

Bordeaux: Reasons to move to France's 'wine capital'
The Primatial Cathedral of Saint-Andre at sunrise in Bordeaux, south-western France. (Photo by Philippe LOPEZ / AFP)

If Emily in Paris has captured your imagination, chances are you’re in the throes of plotting a not-so-socially-distanced move to the city. But before you book an overpriced Airbnb in the city with the worst air pollution in France, allow me to recommend an alternate destination: Bordeaux.

Whatever you’re seeking by living out your francophone dreams – a richer diet, a return to nature, a happening social life – chances are, you’ll find it in Bordeaux.

READ ALSO 15 reasons Clermont-Ferrand is the best place in France

With plenty of green space and a more relaxed pace of life, Bordeaux scores highly on quality of life indewes. Photo: AFP

Quality of Life

Ranked as the fourth most desirable French city to live in, Bordeaux beats Paris in both financial and meteorological climate.

While it is rich port city, your euro will go much further here than in the capital. And if you share the French preference for countryside living, the city is even more attractive; it’s just a day-trip away from the Atlantic coast and boasts a wealth of public parks within the city limits.

Surf Hub

Testing the waters around Bordeaux is a must.

While Bordeaux proper doesn’t border the ocean, a smattering of small surf villages are accessible from the city by train or bus. Sign up for lessons or simply rent a board if you’re a seasoned surfer in the charming beach towns of Biscarrosse Plage, Hossegor or Biarritz.

Speakeasies

Although the city never experienced prohibition, Bordeaux’s thriving bar scene has happily adopted the American speakeasy tradition.

For a clandestine drinking experience, swing by one of the city’s best-hidden speakeasies, like Symbiose, for a signature cocktail. Locating the bars might be difficult – Symbiose’s entrance is camouflaged by a grandfather clock – but the intimate atmosphere is worth the search.

Hipster Haven

Likely due to its flourishing skate culture, Bordeaux boats an impressive population of hipsters, and has the trendy neighborhoods to prove it.

The groovy pearl of the city is DARWIN, a former military barracks and general store that locals have since converted into a one-stop shop for entertainment. Among other attractions, the complex now boasts a bookstore, café and brunch spot, skate park and thrift shop. On weekends, there’s also a joint flea and farmer’s market.

The city’s most famous product definitely lives up to the hype. Photo: AFP

Wine

Need I say more? Bordelaise wine is renowned for a reason.

Living within this wine culture gives you access to not only an abundance of tasting opportunities at local restaurants and nearby vineyards, but also two wine museums that specialise in the history of Bordeaux wine culture (and which also happen to offer tastings).

Your everyday diet will literally be infused with wine – many traditional sauces and meat dishes incorporate local wines. Pro tip for wine lovers: when in doubt, any dish described as à la bordelaise will likely be steeped in a local wine sauce.

This article was originally published in November 2020.

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TOURISM

Essential advice for how to be a good tourist in France

If you want to have the best possible experience in France - and avoid eye rolls, long lines and being told off by a stranger - then consider employing The Local's six rules and guidelines during your next visit to France.

Essential advice for how to be a good tourist in France

Being a good tourist in France can not only save you from angry glares, but it can also substantially improve your visit to France. 

Here are some tips from The Local: 

Speak softly

English speakers in a crowded room or Metro in France are particularly easy to spot. 

We’re not talking intentional bad manners here, but the quiet hum of numerous French conversations in a room will suddenly be jolted by a noticeably louder conversation in English. 

On top of drawing attention to yourself, you might be seen as rude for talking at a higher decibel than everyone around you, particularly if you are in a quiet space, such as a train or bus.

Visit out of season

This one will help you have a better time.

First-time visitors to France might be forgiven for thinking that the country has no holiday off-season, given that it welcomes almost 100 million tourists a year. 

But that’s by-the-by. Summer tourism is very busy in France, particularly in July and August during les grande vacances (school holidays). Winter is also very busy in the mountainous and Christmassy bits (yes, Colmar and Strasbourg, we mean you). 

But, if you can visit outside the traditional big holiday seasons, you can take France at your own pace, and often at a price that’s kinder to your bank manager. Consider booking your trip in the autumn or spring.

Queues are shorter, so there’s less waiting; crowds are smaller, so there’s less pressure to move along; and there’s might even be some space in front of the Mona Lisa in the Louvre. You can take your time to breathe in France properly. You will enjoy it so much more.

READ ALSO 19 alternative places to visit in France to avoid the crowds

Don’t get drunk

For a country that produces so much alcohol – and enjoys consuming a fair amount of it – it is considered bad form to drink too much in a single sitting. 

That’s not to say you’ll never see anyone in France who has enjoyed a little more wine / cognac / pastis / cider / beer / whiskey / liqueur than they should. You will. But don’t follow their lead. 

READ ALSO ‘I broke my face’: How to say you’ve had too much to drink in French

Generally, the French don’t go in for session or binge drinking. There’s a reason that Rugby World Cup 2023 venues ran out of beer – the French don’t put that much away all at once, and what seemed to venue organisers like plenty of booze beforehand turned out to be nowhere near enough when bigger boozing nations’ fans were in town.

A glass or two with a meal is one thing – though watch your intake even more closely if you’re driving: French drink-drive laws are strict – but drink too much and you’ll get pitying looks. And no country on earth does looks as pitying as the French. 

Besides, it might get you in trouble with the law…

Don’t get arrested

Let’s be honest, this section shouldn’t be necessary. Not getting into trouble with the police is a common sense approach to life as well as tourism. 

But, as in all countries, there are a whole range of laws to foul of – from your standard driving infractions to ages-old French rules on running the air-con in your winnebago, for example.

Now, most very minor law-breaking can probably be solved with a grovelling apology to the world-weary police officer standing in front of you and tactical use of the very unofficial and totally non-legal ‘dumb foreigner’ defence. 

But more serious offences may see you in the back of a police car, en route to a police station, where you can be held for up to 24 hours before someone has to decide whether you can be detained for longer. 

Suffice to say, this alone will put a kink in your holiday.

READ ALSO What to do if you are arrested in France 

But not as much as the kink as any future court appearance and French criminal record may do. 

Don’t wander round topless

France has a reputation for being pretty laissez-faire about nudity. But there are rules – and, while there is no nationwide law against being naked in public in France, there is one against disturbing the public order.

On the beach, it’s fine to strip down to your swimwear, but even if you’re having lunch in a beach bar, it’s appropriate to cover up a bit. 

READ ALSO Can you go topless in French resorts?

It’s important to be aware of local bylaws on public nudity, which – in a certain area – take precedence over national rules. Or, at least, be aware that local bylaws may exist. 

A number of other towns, cities and tourist resorts across the country have also taken steps to ensure people cover up, with mayors ordering local police to fine anyone baring their chests.

You are – mostly – not allowed to go topless in Paris, for example. In the capital’s parks and gardens it is forbidden for women to go topless (that doesn’t, however, mean it doesn’t happen) and, in fact, bathing suits should not be worn in city parks. According to the official rules, dress should be ‘decent and in accordance with good morals and public order’.

Take the route less travelled

And finally, France has more than its fair share of bucket-list attractions that you feel you have to visit. 

But confining any trip to those overcrowded places in France that everyone else goes too really rather misses the secret of France. 

READ ALSO What are the most overrated tourist attractions in France?

For every Eiffel Tower, Loire Valley chateau, Bordeaux domain, or Provencal lavender field, there’s four or five hidden gems waiting for you to discover. 

So, while you’re doing the traditional tourist bit, also find time to travel hipster. Fall in love with those less-travelled parts of France before everyone else catches on.

Even Paris has its magical tourist mysteries.

What do you think about this advice? Share your tips for being a good tourist in France in the comments below.

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