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SPANISH TRADITIONS

In Spain, brotherhood set up by slaves marches at Easter

For centuries, African slaves and emancipated men marched in Seville's Easter parades, carrying statues of Christ and the Virgin on their shoulders as part of a unique brotherhood that remains active today.

In Spain, brotherhood set up by slaves marches at Easter
Samuel, a member of "Los Negritos Brotherhood" in Seville. Photo: CRISTINA QUICLER / AFP

Founded more than 600 years ago, the Black Brotherhood is the oldest
religious brotherhood still active in this southern city, which is widely seen
as the centre of Holy Week celebrations in Spain.

Officially known as the “Most Holy Christ of the Foundation and Our Lady of
Angels”, the brotherhood has for centuries been known as “La Hermandad de los Negritos”, a name its members chose themselves.

It is one of 70 brotherhoods and voluntary associations involved in staging
multiple Easter week processions when Christians remember the death and
resurrection of Jesus.

READ ALSO: What you need to know about Semana Santa in Seville

What’s unique about this brotherhood is that it emerged in the late 14th
century, made up of Africans – both slaves and freedmen – who were barred
from similar organisations, says Isidoro Moreno, a retired anthropologist from
Seville University.

The example was later “exported” to the Americas where “dozens of black
brotherhoods (were set up) in the 16th century,” says Moreno, author of a book
called “The ancient brotherhood of the black people of Seville”.

It was only at the end of the 19th century that the Brotherhood began admitting white people.

Black and African saints

Inside the Chapel of Our Lady of Angels, which was built in 1550 on a plot of land owned by the Brotherhood, there are icons of black saints such as Benedict the Moor from Sicily and Martín de Porres of Peru.

It was from here that the brothers and Nazarene ‘penitents’ with their long
robes and distinctive pointed hoods set out on Maundy Thursday for their
annual procession to Seville Cathedral.

The pointed ‘capirote‘ hoods originated in the 15th century when they were
put over the heads of those condemned by the Inquisition.

They were later adopted by southern Spain’s Catholic brotherhoods for use
at Easter as a symbol of penitence, with white symbolising purity.

Shouldering heavy floats depicting scenes from the Passion but also adorned
with the faces of Ethiopian saints Elesban and Ephigenia, the Brotherhood’s
costaleros; slowly made their way through the streets.

READ ALSO: An A to Z of the Spanish Semana Santa vocabulary you need to know 

Among them is Raul de Lemos, a 19-year-old student and one of the few black
members of the Brotherhood.

Being in the Brotherhood “is a good thing, a way of remembering the past,”
the bearded teen told AFP during rehearsals ahead of Holy Week.

Slavery

The Brotherhood emerged out of a refuge set up in the 1390s by Seville’s
archbishop Gonzalo de Mena for African slaves who were abandoned by their
owners through advanced age or illness.

Slaves were allowed to join, “with their owners’ permission”, along with
others who managed to buy their freedom or won it after their owners’ died,
Moreno said.

Following Europe’s discovery of the Americas, there was rising demand for
cheap labour which saw a growing number of Africans shipped into the Iberian
Peninsula.

READ ALSO: Ten mouthwatering dishes to enjoy at Easter in Spain

So great was the influx that Seville became one of Spain’s biggest slavery centres, with Africans accounting for 12 percent of the city’s population in
the 16th and 17th centuries.

With most of the Brotherhood’s members from the poorest sectors of society,
they were subject to “much stricter” supervision by the Catholic Church with
white ruling classes fearful of an uprising, Moreno says.

Saved by a papal edit

In 1604, a Maundy Thursday standoff saw its members come to blows with a
brotherhood of nobles, leaving several people injured, Moreno says.

Several members were whipped, and the Brotherhood was forbidden to
participate in the rest of the Holy Week processions.

The Brotherhood might have disappeared altogether without being saved by a
papal edict in 1625, ratifying its existence and protecting it.

By the mid-18th century, it formally adopted “the Black Brotherhood” as its
name, as it had long been known colloquially, Moreno says.

In the 19th century, when Seville’s black population dwindled, the Brotherhood began admitting white people, little-by-little becoming a local institution for residents.

“What the Brotherhood is most proud of… is that we are the successors of
those black people who fought so hard” to preserve the organisation over time,
said Alfredo Montilla, one of its leaders.

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ANDALUSIA

Discover Spain: Horse races on the beach in Sanlúcar de Barrameda

In the Andalusian town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda, horse races take place along the beaches each summer, attracting thousands who come to watch the sunset spectacle. Here's what you need to know and how to watch them.

Discover Spain: Horse races on the beach in Sanlúcar de Barrameda

What is it? 

The Carreras de Caballos (Horse Races) of Sanlúcar de Barrameda have been taking place the coastal Cádiz town for almost 200 years.

They comprise of over 20 races taking place over several days between the beaches of Bajo de Guía and Las Piletas.

The dates are times of the races are dictated by the low tide, which vary each year.

Typically they begin in the evening, finishing up at sunset. Almost 300,000 people come to watch the event, to see the horses galloping along the shore, framed by Doñana National Park in the distance. 

Almost €211,000 are up for grabs for the winning jockeys of the 25 races this year, with the winner bagging €8,000, second place getting €3,200 and third and fourth getting €800. 

When does it take place?

The Carreras de Caballos horse races will celebrate their 179th edition in 2024.

The first races will take place on August 14th, 16th and 17th, while the second lot will happen on August 28th, 29th and 30th.

Sanlúcar’s first official beach horserace was held in 1845. Photo: Cristina Quicler/AFP

How can I watch?

The event is free, so you can simply turn up at the beach and watch.

If you get there early enough, there are also boxes and seats, which have been set up on the sand.

The Horse Racing Society also builds a temporary enclosure at the finish line, where horse bets can be placed. 

If you want to watch them on TV or online, Sanlúcar’s local TV channel Costa Noroeste Televisión streams the races on their YouTube channel

Spectators gather on the beach to see the annual beach horse races. (Photo by CRISTINA QUICLER / AFP)

How did it start? 

There are several theories as to how the races began, but the most common one is that they started in the 19th century, when many members of the aristocracy moved to Sanlúcar for the health benefits of the sea. 

Others claim they began as informal competitions where fishermen raced to transport fish from the old port to the local markets and nearby towns on horseback.

Sanlúcar’s horse races have been held officially since 1845 and the competition has grown both in size and in status. Once the races were just for men, but today professional jockeys, as well as amateur men and women take part.

The event has become a big deal, especially since 1981 when the Sanlúcar de Barrameda Horse Society was re-founded. 

The sun sets on Sanlúcar de Barrameda as the beach horse races end. (Photo by CRISTINA QUICLER / AFP)
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