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LIVING IN SWITZERLAND

How Switzerland’s English-language bookshops have become a community haven

Poetry clubs, writing groups, quiz nights, tea and scones – English-language bookshops in Switzerland offer customers a lot more than just reading tips. They have become a haven for people seeking community, Clare O’Dea writes. 

Rachel Bender and Matthew Wake of Books Books Books in Lausanne.
Rachel Bender and Matthew Wake of Books Books Books in Lausanne. Photo courtesy of Rachel Bender and Matthew Wake

Since the huge shift to online bookselling and e-books, it seems like a miracle that bricks-and-mortar bookshops have survived at all. Those that have weathered the storm have done so thanks to strong ties with their customers, as seen in Switzerland’s independent English-language bookshops in Zurich, Lausanne and Geneva.

When Matthew Wake and his colleague Rachel Bender of Books Books Books in Lausanne organised a 15th birthday tea party for the shop last November, they ran out of mugs pretty quickly. Seventy-five people turned up over a Saturday afternoon, most of them familiar faces.

“These are people who love reading and have an emotional attachment to the shop,” Matthew explains. He describes the shop as an anchor for English speakers in the city. “You need places like that when you move to a new country.”

Books Books Books benefits from a close connection to the literary festival Le livre sur les quais in nearby Morges, which has been running for a similar length of time. Big names come to Morges every year, including the latest Booker Prize winner Paul Lynch.

“We had Paul in the shop for an event two years ago and when he won recently, we all knew him and celebrated the news.” Paul Lynch even judged the shop’s annual creative writing prize for Swiss high school students. 

Rachel Bender and Matthew Wake of Books Books Books in Lausanne.

Rachel Bender and Matthew Wake of Books Books Books in Lausanne. Photo courtesy of Rachel Bender and Matthew Wake

We, in this case, is the community of regulars who attend events and keep in touch with the shop. Over in Zurich, another community has grown around Pile of Books, a friendly bookshop up a quiet side street in the trendy district of Wiedikon.

Ella Rosen works at the shop and enjoys organising different kinds of events to bring different groups in, from little kids to writers. “Part of what matters to me is to make people feel welcome because I feel this city doesn’t always do that.”

Coming up next month, Ella is organising a silent reading rave. “It’s a new thing. People can come in after closing time and we’ll all have a quiet reading session together.” Pile of Books has already successfully tried out a ‘shut up and write’ evening. After introductions, they set a timer and everyone works on their own writing.

READ ALSO: How hard is it to make friends in Switzerland?

‘Almost like a pub’ 

But it’s not all about attending events. Many customers appreciate a friendly exchange when they come in to browse. Stauffacher English bookshop in Bern boasts the city’s most extensive selection of English books inside the large flagship Swiss store.

“It’s always been like a bookshop within a bookshop up here on the second floor,” Michael Yates of Stauffacher says. “We have our own identity and English-speaking staff. A lot of people just like to speak English for a change. Yesterday I had a chat with a customer about the American election. It’s almost like a pub where you come in and say hello.”

Customers in Stauffacher can also fill their shopping bags with British and American food, the top-selling item being Yorkshire Tea. “It’s nice for people to be able to buy the foods they miss, especially baking ingredients and chocolate.”

Book clubs go with the territory for Books Books Books, Pile of Books and the English bookshop at Stauffacher. At one stage, Books Books Books hosted seven book clubs but the pandemic broke that run.

The monthly reading circle at Stauffacher Bern is hosted by best-selling author and former employee Diccon Bewes. “Between ten and twenty people come in for the evening discussion in the shop,” Michael says.

“Another hugely popular thing is the children’s hour on the first Saturday of every month. We have lots of kids coming in with their parents to hear Joe Quinn read. They love him. But it’s also another way for people to meet and chat.”

‘Long-term connection with people’

Switzerland is home to a significant number of English-language authors, many of whom have a local following and hold launches and signings at Swiss bookshops. Florence Reisch-Gentinetta presented her new book “Expat Wife Happy Life” at Pages & Sips in Geneva last month.

Pages & Sips is the new kid on the block, open since September 2022. It is a hybrid bookshop and cafe, a successful formula in lots of cities. The shop boasts a highly literary location, across the street from the house where Jean-Jacques Rousseau was born.

A cup of tea and a book

English speakers in Switzerland have found a haven in the bookshops. Photo: Katrina_S from Pixabay

Pile of Books in Zurich also offers coffee to customers – but on an informal basis when things are quiet. Ella Ronen enjoys when new people discover the shop for the first time.

“The shop is deceptively large. It’s very magical when you come in. There’s a moment of people’s eyes lighting up when they come in and realise that there is all this space and a seating area in the back.”

The story of Pile of Books almost closing illustrates the importance of the communities that have flourished around these independent bookshops.

The shop had been running for several years and had even made it through Covid when the previous owner announced his retirement. Word got out that the shop was closing, and customers were really disappointed – until one regular customer stepped in and bought the business. He put together the team that runs the place today.

For the staff and owners, it’s a labour of love. As Matthew Wake says, he feels incredibly lucky to work with books. “We love reading, we love books, we love talking about books. That’s a passion we have and it’s what gives us this long-term connection with people.”

A dynamic, up-to-date guide to Swiss society and current affairs, All About Switzerland ebook features a selection of 29 articles by Clare O’Dea. The articles were first published by The Local Switzerland from 2022 to 2024. The ebook is available on Amazon, Kobo and other retailers.

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For members

QUALITY OF LIFE

Where are the ‘best’ and ‘worst’ places to live in Switzerland in 2024?

A new, large-scale comparison of Swiss communities reveals where life is good — and where it leaves much to be desired.

Where are the 'best' and 'worst' places to live in Switzerland in 2024?

In all fairness, there are no truly ‘bad’ communities in Switzerland, especially in comparison to certain parts of the world.

However, in the only major ranking of this kind conducted in Switzerland, Handelzeitung newspaper set out to find out which Swiss towns of more than 2,000 residents offer the best overall quality of life to its residents, and which  ones — not so much. 

The publication examined 1,000 municipalities, ranking them on 51 criteria, including the tax burden, property prices, security, geographic location, quality of public schools, social structures, and availability of shopping venues, among others.

The data that Handelszeitung used is based mainly on public statistics, as well as on real estate price models from the company Iazi.

“Among the main factors for a municipality to be at the top are low taxes, proximity to the centre, and the presence of a lake,” according the study’s author, Donato Scognamiglio.

The findings can be summed up thus: all the best communities are located in the Swiss-German part of the country (mainly in Zurich and central Switzerland), while the ‘worst’ are predominantly in the French-speaking cantons, as well as Ticino.

And the best places are….

Based on the above criteria, Handelszeitung selected these 10 communes as the best places to live in the country:
1 Meggen (LU)
2 Hergiswil (NW)
3 Oberkirch (LU)
4 Cham (ZG)
5 Zug (ZG)
6 Zollikon (ZH)
7 Freienbach (SZ)
8 Küsnacht (ZH)
9 Hünenberg (ZG)
10 Kilchberg (ZH)

Why has the municipality of Meggen earned  the top spot?

 “Living in Meggen is considered a privilege by most people,” said mayor Carmen Holdener.

“But it’s not just the rich and privileged who live here,” she added. “The population is very diverse.”

City statistics do show that foreign nationals make up nearly 25 percent of the town’s 7,768  residents.

What about Hergiswil, which is in the second-place?

The Nidwalden municipality is well connected by transport, and its location between Pilatus and Lake Lucerne offers many leisure activities.

But its main attraction may lie elsewkere: “We keep taxes in Hergiswil consistently low,” said the mayor, Daniel Rogenmoser. “This is important for taxpayers so that they can plan for the long term with relatively stable taxes.”

This community is diverse as wll: almost 30 percent of the population of 6,185 people are foreigners.

What about the ‘losers’?

This is what the line-up looks like:

1 Val-de-Travers (NE)
2 Chamoson (VS)
3 Le Locle (NE)
4 Riviera (TI)
5 Perles (BE)
6 Biasca (TI)
7 Diemtigen (BE)
8 Saint-Imier (BE)
9 La Chaux-de-Fonds (NE)
10 Tramelan (BE)

So what’s wrong with Val-de-Travers, which got the lowest score in the ranking?

Although scenically located amid hills and pine forests, the Neuchâtel municipality has the highest taxes in Switzerland.

But that’s not all: the community of 10,550 inhabitants is “poorly served by publlic transport, poorly structured, and has few jobs on site.”

What about Switzerland’s largest cities?

According to the study, life is not that great (comparatively speaking) in major Swiss municipalities.

Zurich is in the 54th place, Basel in the 486th, and Bern in 491st.

“The reasons for this poor ranking lie mainly in the areas of housing and employment, with reduced construction activity, more difficult financial accessibility, a higher unemployment rate, and fewer business start-ups.”

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