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TRAIN TRAVEL

Five ‘coolcation’ spots you can reach by train from Germany

Southern Europe is home to most of the continent's iconic summer vacation destinations. But as temperatures rise, some of those spots are getting too hot. Here are some cooler alternatives you can reach from Germany.

hike in the Alps
Family on a hike in the Austrian Alps. There are plenty of 'coolcation' destinations accessible from Germany. Photo: picture alliance / Defrancesco/TVB PillerseeTal/dpa-tmn | Defrancesco

Spain, Italy, Croatia, Greece or Turkey – these are probably the first summer vacation destinations that come to mind for most Germans.

But soaring temperatures and increasing tensions between local residents and tourists are turning some of Southern Europe’s dream destinations into nightmares for tourists.

In Greece major attractions have repeatedly been closed due to extreme heat waves this summer, and three tourists reportedly succumbed to heat-related deaths.

In Spain, vacationers suffer both heatwaves and also unwelcoming residents in some locations. Tourist hot spots have seen increasingly loud anti-tourism protests as residents complain that tourists push the cost of living up for locals. 

Some Italian cities have seen similar protests, and one city temporarily banned tourists this year over concerns around the water supply.

Taken together, these and similar incidents seen across Southern Europe suggest that the combination of climate change and local frustrations are bound to have dramatic effects on Europeans’ travel habits.

In fact these changes are already being seen to an extent. Swapping a beach vacation for a “coolcation” – that is a trip to a place with a cooler climate – is already being reported as a major travel trend this summer.

So if a coolcation sounds more appealing to you this year, here are five destinations near Germany. What’s more, you can skip the flight and take a train there if you like.

Malmö, Sweden

Relatively unknown among travellers, compared to say Stockholm or Copenhagen, the southern Swedish city of Malmö is gaining a reputation as one of the Nordic’s most underrated cities.

It’s a small, and very green city that allows guests to have a Northern European experience without navigating the large crowds and higher costs seen in the larger cities.

And with average daily temperatures ranging between 14 and 22C even in July and August, it’s certainly a good place to escape the heat.

Malmö

Just a bridge or a short train ride from Copenhagen, Malmö is an underrated Swedish city to visit. Photo: picture alliance/dpa/dpa-tmn | Francoise Hauser

Getting there:

Copenhagen, Malmö and Stockholm and all accessible from Germany by car or train, and Sweden’s Snälltåget train offers a direct night train connecting to Hamburg, Berlin and Dresden.

Departures from Germany leave Dresden at 5:26 p.m., stopping in Berlin close to 8 p.m. and Hamburg around midnight. 

Then at 7 a.m. the next morning the train stops in Copenhagen, and on to Malmö by 7:25. From there the train stops in several more Swedish cities before arriving in Stockholm by 1:20 p.m.

The complete train schedule can be found on the Snälltåget website.

More useful information for planning a trip to Malmö or other Swedish cities can be found at our sister website The Local – Sweden.

READ ALSO: The destinations you can reach by direct night train from Berlin

The Alps 

Central Europe’s tallest mountains are probably the first place that comes to mind when most Germans think about a coolcation, and for good reason.

The Alps offer cooler temperatures (the higher you go the cooler it is) as well as stunning hiking, natural views and crystal clear lakes for a refreshing dip.

While a summer trip is a common idea for many, the mountain range is extensive enough that you can avoid the crowds easily enough by travelling beyond the main tourist hubs.

Getting there:

Some parts of the Alps are only accessible by car (and then foot if you want to go really remote). But there are train routes from Germany that will bring you to some great coolcation destinations in the Alps in Switzerland, Austria or Italy.

Nightjet, operated by Austrian railways (ÖBB) has a line that connects Berlin to Zürich, stopping through Leipzig on the way. Alternatively, there’s a night train from Amsterdam that stops in Bonn close to midnight, and another from Hamburg and stops in Karlsruhe around 6 in the morning.

On the Austrian side, a number of trains from Munich head into the Alps via Innsbruck or Salzburg. For those coming from further afield, there’s a Nightjet train from Amsterdam that can take you directly to Innsbruck from Düsseldorf, Würzburg or Nuremberg, and another from Hamburg that also connects to Hannover and Göttingen.

Some of the trains that connect Munich to Innsbruck also continue on to the Italian Alps. For example, from Munich Hauptbahnhof you can catch an EC train toward Bologna and get off at Bolzano or Trento to access the Italian Alps. The ride from Munich takes about four and half hours.

Slovenia

Less developed than its neighbours to the north and not having as much coastal access as its neighbours to the south, Slovenia remains a hidden gem among European travel destinations. But maybe not for too much longer, as its mountain lakes in particular have gained notoriety in recent years.

Lake Bled, with its castle on a cliff overlooking a crystal blue alpine lake is among Slovenia’s best known attractions. Not too far away, the Bohinj Valley offers similar sights and experiences, including an equally beautiful lake and summer sports galore.

Another natural coolcation draw is the Soča River, which is surrounded by gorgeous hiking trails and offers activities like river rafting and fly fishing.

Lake Bled

Lake Bled in Slovenia is a prime destination for swimming, hiking and summer adventure sports. Photo: picture alliance / dpa | Antonio Bat

Getting there:

You can get to Bled in Slovenia in about six hours via train from Munich. You’ll typically have to transfer twice in Villach and Jesenice.

From the station at Bled Jezero you can catch a local bus to your destination at Lake Bled, or Lake Bohinj or other destinations in the area.

Poland’s Baltic Coast

For a more budget friendly vacation, and one a bit more off the beaten track, Germany’s neighbour to the east shouldn’t be overlooked.

Poland’s southern mountains offer hiking, summer sports and rafting that can also make for an exciting summer break. 

But if you’re really looking to escape the heat, the Baltic Coast is generally your best bet. 

Szczecin, which is accessible from Berlin in about three hours with the Deutschlandticket, and is near the Baltic Sea, can be an easy city to visit for a quick overnight or weekend getaway.

Further away, but more properly situated on the coast is Gdańsk, from where you can access plenty of beaches along the coastline in either direction.

Getting there:

Trains connect Berlin to Gdańsk in about seven hours, depending on the transfers.

The fastest route is via Frankfurt Oder and transfers in central Poland in Poznań. There’s also a route through Szczecin, but it takes a bit longer, about nine hours.

Alternatively you could take a Flixbus to Gdańsk (also transferring in Poznań) in about 10 hours.

Baltic sea coast

Swimmers take a cooling dip in the Baltic Sea off the Polish coast. Photo: picture alliance/dpa | Stefan Sauer

Germany’s coolcation locations

If you don’t have the time or the energy for an international train journey, it’s possible to have a domestic coolcation right here in Germany.

The coast near the Baltic Sea (Ostsee in German) is generally where the coolest temperatures are recorded in the summer months, and the region’s white same beaches are among Germany’s top summer destinations.

Or if you’re closer to the south, you can explore the edge of the Alps along Germany’s border, including the country’s highest peak, the Zugspitze.

Of course, almost anywhere you go in Germany, you can find a refreshing lake to cool off in. But for the coldest waters, it helps to get as close as possible to the mountains. The rivers coming down the mountains into Southern Germany, such as the Isar in Munich effectively carry snowmelt from the Alps directly into Bavaria.

READ ALSO: 8 of the coolest places in Germany to visit on hot summer days

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CLIMATE CRISIS

Germany’s parks plant a way forward on climate change

In the castle gardens of Muskauer Park, which straddles both banks of the German-Polish river border, caretakers have mounted a fightback against the impacts of climate change.

Germany's parks plant a way forward on climate change

On the stump of a 150-year-old oak tree, gnawed by parasites and felled in a storm, a tender new shoot represents the estate’s hope of adapting to rising temperatures and more frequent droughts.

As part of a “natural regeneration” project, the sapling was grafted onto its fallen predecessor by gardeners in the first step towards replacing the UNESCO-listed park’s lost trees.

The young oak “will benefit from the roots of the old tree and will be more resistant to threats”, gardener Jana Kretschmer told AFP.

By transmitting their DNA to the new saplings, the older trees “teach” their descendants how to adapt to less hospitable conditions.

“Nature shows the way, humans need only look on,” said Kretschmer.

Drought and pests are among the silent killers encouraged by climate change, which weakens plants and has started to decimate the flora of the parklands on both sides of the Neisse river.

Some 180 beeches, ashes and oaks had to be felled there last year.

“Every year since 2018 we have to cut down more and more trees,” said Kretschmer, the site’s deputy manager, who bemoaned the loss of countless old trees as a “catastrophe”.

Natural cure

In June, 15 German estates presented their plans to protect their gardens against the impacts of climate change.

At Muskauer Park, the groundskeepers are betting on the traditional method of natural regeneration to increase the tree-count.

Importing more resistant species of trees would be an option, but one that would be “neither sustainable, nor intelligent”, said park manager Cord Panning.

A natural regeneration approach moreover promises savings in two scarce commodities: money and water.

Following the method, caretakers select the best young specimens to plant them in place of old trees, eschewing genetic engineering or any foreign transplants.

In time, they hope to restore virtually all of the trees in the 19th century garden that have been lost and felled.

Among the pests to have plagued the trees at Muskauer Park are the tinder fungus and the bark beetle.

“Usually, by the time you realise it, it is too late,” said Kretschmer.

Long dry spells between 2018 and 2020 did nothing to help the situation, leaving the trees ever more vulnerable to attack.

Fungal invasion

Further south in Germany, at Nymphenburg Palace in Munich, the spread of the phytophthora fungus and invasive mistletoe species are depriving trees of water.

“The trees are experiencing dry stress, even in years where rainfall is sufficient,” said Michael Degle, the palace’s landscape architect.

The Munich park has had a system of “sustainable tree management” since 2018, which employs moisture sensors and new pruning techniques.

The project feeds into the joint efforts of over a dozen garden estates in Germany, including Muskauer Park, to develop effective responses to climate change.

But their work is “reaching its limits”, according to the group’s June report.

Already, 20 to 30 percent of their budget is spent on fixing climate damage — a share which is only increasing.

According to their calculations, somewhere between 200 and 250 million euros ($220 and 275 million) would be needed in the long term to protect historic parks from rising temperatures.

The damage to trees at Muskauer Park by a warming climate will be on show at the estate’s open day at the end of September.

An opportunity, according to Kretschmer, to show that trees “are not just wood, but living beings much more clever than us”.

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