Though it may be better known for its towering skyscrapers than its restaurants, Frankfurt, in the state of Hesse, is quite the haven for foodies, whether it be fashionable fine dining or authentic local eateries.
From apple wine to hearty stews, taking a whirlwind tour of local treats is one of the best way to get to know the culture and history of Hesse, so look out for some of these foods and drinks as you explore this fascinating city.
Frankfurter Grüne Soße
When it comes Frankfurt’s local culinary culture, nothing is quite as iconic as Grüne Soße (green sauce). This zingy, herbal concoction serves as the perfect accompaniment to almost any dish you can think of, from Frankfurt Schnitzel to beef brisket.
Green sauce is made out of a mixture of fragrant chopped herbs added to yoghurt, sour cream, quark or mayonnaise to create a creamy and refreshing side dish.
While it pairs well with hearty, fatty foods – and you can find plenty of those in Frankfurt – the classic pairing is potatoes and boiled eggs, which are served in a generous sea of green.
Speckkuchen aus Hefeteig
Speckkuchen aus Hefeteig, or bacon cake made from yeast dough, may sound a bit odd, but this savoury pastry is beloved of locals in Frankfurt.
This dish combines a soft, fluffy yeast dough with a generous topping of crispy bacon, onions, and sometimes a touch of sour cream. Baked to perfection, the yeast dough adds a delightful Frankfurt twist on a dish that is usually connected with the Hessian town of Kassel.
This savoury treat is often enjoyed as a snack or a light meal, especially during local folk festivals. The salty bacon pairs dreamily with the slightly sweet dough, making it a sure-fire crowd-pleaser at any gathering.
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Handkäs mit Musik
Unlike almost anything else you’ll come across in Germany, Handkäs’ mit Musik is proof of the creativity and variety you can find in Hesse’s regional cuisine.
Sour milk cheese – usually from Mainz or Harz – is formed into small, flat cylinders and coated in a delicious, tangy marinade of oil, vinegar, onions and apple wine.
Served in a gastro pub , this hearty snack will usually be accompanied by thick slices of crusty bread and devoured with only a knife and a healthy dash of carraway seeds.
If you’re wondering about the “music”, it apparently relates to the way Hankäs mit Musik used to be served, with the onions and two little jars of oil and vinegar on the side. As the waiter would approach the table, the tiny jars would clink together gently on the plate, creating a little bit of music to accompany the dish.
Apfelwein (“Äpfelwoi”)
A staple in Frankfurt’s culinary culture, Apfelwein – or apple wine – is a must-try for anyone visiting the city.
This tart, fermented drink is the region’s answer to cider and has been enjoyed by local and visitors for centuries.
Typically served in a ribbed glass called a “Geripptes” or in a blue ceramic pitcher, Apfelwein is often enjoyed by itself, though some prefer it with a splash of sparkling water – as a “sauer gespritzt.”
You’ll find many traditional apple wine taverns, or “Apfelweinlokale”, dotted around the city – most famously in the hip district of Sachsenhausen – where you can enjoy a glass of ‘Apfelwoi’ alongside some regional specialities.
READ ALSO: 5 things you never knew about German apple wine
Hessischer Erbseneintopf
If you happen to be in Frankfurt on a chilly autumn day, there’s nothing that beats escaping the cold and tucking into a big bowl of Hessischer Erbseneintopf next to the fire in a cosy Apfelweinlokale.
Hessian pea stew is a thick, hearty soup that’s as comforting as it is nutritious. Made with split peas, smoked bacon, vegetables, and a variety of spices, this stew has been staple in local kitchens for generations.
While the ingredients may sound simple, the stew is traditionally slow-cooked to allow the flavours to perfectly meld together, resulting in a dish far better than the sum of its parts. Often served with a thick slice of dark bread, pea stew is a dish that embodies the warmth and hospitality of Hessian cuisine.
Frankfurter Würstchen
Frankfurter Würstchen, or Frankfurters, are perhaps the city’s most famous culinary export. These slim, smoked pork sausages have been a beloved delicacy for centuries, often enjoyed with mustard and a crusty baguette or potato salad.
What sets these sausages apart is their delicate flavor and tender texture, achieved through a careful smoking process. Traditionally, they are boiled and served hot, making them a popular street food or snack at any time of the day.
Pair them with a cold pint of Binding – a popular local beer – and you’ve got the makings of a classic Frankfurt experience.
Frankfurter Rippchen
Frankfurter Rippchen, or Frankfurt-style pork chops, are a hearty and comforting dish that showcases the region’s love for rich, lovingly prepared meats.
These cured and lightly smoked pork chops are typically served with sauerkraut and mashed or boiled potatoes, making for a simple dish that truly warms the soul.
Though pork, potatoes and cabbage may sound like something you’ll get anywhere in Germany, small regional twists – like the addition of apple wine and pork fat to the sauerkraut – give this dish a subtle but uniquely Hessian flavour.
Often enjoyed on special occasions, you’ll find Rippchen on the menus of many of authentic apple wine taverns and Gaststätten throughout the city.
Kartoffelwurst
Kartoffelwurst, or potato sausage, is a rustic dish that hails from the rural areas around Frankfurt.
This hearty sausage is made from a mixture of finely grated potatoes and pork, generously seasoned with herbs and spices.
Originating in the Schwälmer region in the north of Hesse, it was first concieved as a technique to help stretch out small portions of meat – but has since become a sensation all by itself.
Typically, Kartoffelwurst is served with a side of sauerkraut or pickles, and it’s particularly popular as a warming treat during the colder months.
Frankfurter Kranz
Frankfurter Kranz, or Frankfurt Crown Cake, is a classic dessert that holds a special place in the city’s culinary heritage.
This elegant cake is made of layers of sponge cake filled with buttercream and topped with a caramelised nut brittle.
If you’re wondering about the “Kranz”, it refers to the crown-shaped structure of the cake, which is a reference to Frankfurt’s status as the place where German emperors were coronated.
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Traditionally, it’s adorned with cherries and sometimes marzipan decorations, making it a truly show-stopping dessert that pairs beautifully with a coffee after a day of sightseeing in Frankfurt.
Whoops! I believe Wiesbaden, not Frankfurt, is the capital of Hesse.
Thanks for catching that, we’ve changed it!
My late husband referred to Handkäse mit Musik as rubber tyres drenched in sump oil. I heartily agree – and it stinks! No thanks.