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DISCOVER GERMANY

Four places to visit in Germany this autumn

This weekend marks the official end of summer. With temperatures getting cooler, autumn is the perfect time to explore Germany and check out some of its more unusual festivals.

'Little onions' at the Weimar Zwiebelmarkt
Little onion 'people' pictured at the annual Onion Market in Weimar, Germany. (Photo: picture alliance/dpa | Martin Schutt)

It’s quieter for a start and the new season brings a feast of russet browns and flame reds to leaves on trees. It’s also typically the time when events start to ramp up again after the summer break. Here are four places to explore this autumn. 

Lichtenberg in Berlin      

If you’re thinking of heading to Berlin, autumn is the perfect time for a trip – it gets colder, but not yet freezing.

But before you head straight for the city centre, you might want to explore Berlin’s 11th borough, Lichtenberg. Home to a museum of East Germany’s secret police in their former headquarters, it’s also where you’ll find the Landschaftspark Herzberge.

This 100-hectare park used to be a freight train hub, but it’s now a haven of varied trails through densely wooded pastures studded with black Pomeranian sheep, orchards, ponds and pools.

Pomeranian sheep in Landschaftspark Herzberge

Black Pomeranian sheep waiting to get shorn at the Landschaftspark Herzberge in Lichtenberg, Berlin. Photo: Daniel Naupold/dpa

2024 also marks the 35th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin wall and the city has plenty planned to mark the occasion, from guided walking tours to memorial concerts and exhibitions. 

The long open-air East Side Gallery that was once part of the Berlin Wall is on most people’s lists when they visit the city. This 9th November, the 1316-metre gallery wall will also be the backdrop for a series of commemorative films.

A selection of videos will take viewers back to 1989 when people worked together to bring down the dictatorship in the GDR and give insights into the duality of Berlin’s post-communist years when people faced both new opportunities but also job losses and hostile treatment.

October 3rd is also a national holiday in Germany for ‘Reunification Day’. 

READ ALSO: 10 things you never knew about German reunification

a float with the slogan Make Schorle great again... Riesling first at the German Wine Harvest Festival in Neustadt

A vehicle with the slogan ‘Make Schorle great again… Riesling first!’ is seen at the wine procession at the Wine Harvest Festival in Neustadt in 2016. Photo: Frank Rumpenhorst/dpa 

Neustadt in Rhineland-Palatinate

Some excellent wines come out of Germany and the Palatinate region is no exception. In fact, it’s one of Germany’s largest and best-known growing regions. It’s also home to The German Wine Harvest Festival (Weinlesefest). Think of a smaller, infinitely more chilled version of Munich’s Oktoberfest but with the focus on wine, and you’ll kind of get the picture of the annual September-October event.

Over 100,000 people descend on the secret wine capital of Neustadt every year for the event which celebrates Thanksgiving. You’ll find a ‘wine village’ with hundreds of local wines to taste, live music, a funfair, and, of course the grand finale – a huge wine procession with newly elected ‘Wine Queens’ leading an array of colourful floats.

Part of Germany’s ‘Wine Route’ that takes you on an epic journey through historic vineyards and stunning countryside, the medieval city is well worth exploring in its own right for its picture-perfect half-timbered houses and cobblestone streets.

The grape harvest is in full swing at this time of year, so it’s a great time to visit the local sun-kissed vineyards in the neighbouring wine villages and, of course, taste their wines.

Revellers celebrate the start of the carnival season at 11.11 during the Women's Carnival Day in Cologne, western Germany

Revellers celebrate the start of the carnival season at 11.11 during the Women’s Carnival Day in Cologne, western Germany on February 8, 2024. The festivities begin with “Weiberfastnacht”, a raucous street party in which women snip off men’s ties. (Photo by Sascha Schuermann / AFP)

Cologne in North Rhine-Westphalia

Think of Cologne and a city of art and culture, a gothic twin-spired cathedral and its famous carnival, one of Europe’s largest, probably come to mind.

While the full parade of floats and street festivities isn’t until February/March, the carnival actually officially opens on November. To be precise, at 11 minutes past 11 on the 11th month, ie November. Get ready for the so-called fifth season!

Carnival societies, beer halls and other venues across the city hold colourful parties featuring DJs playing well-known Kölsch (or Cologne) music and carnival bands like Bläck Fööss and Höhner, while more traditional ones present the Dreigestirn, the three men (yep, the maiden is traditionally portrayed by a man, too) who’ve been bestowed the titles of maiden, prince and peasant by the festival committee for the occasion. Alaaf!

onion plaits at the Weimar onion market

Onion plaits are pictured at the Weimar Onion Market (Photo: picture alliance/dpa | Martin Schutt)

Weimar in Thuringia

How do you like those onions? No, really, are you an onion fan? If you are, you’ll love the 370-year-old Zwiebelmarkt (onion market) in the Thuringian city of Weimar on the second weekend of October every year. 

Starting out as a cattle and onion market, the three-day festival is dedicated solely to the humble vegetable now.

The market, once beloved by Goethe, attracts some 300,000 visitors to the hundreds of stands selling all different kinds of onions. But these aren’t just onions as you’d see them in your average market or supermarket, red and white varieties are intricately plaited and decorated with dried flowers.

As well as onions, onion ornaments and onion-y dishes like Zwiebelkuchen (onion cake) you’ll find beer and wine stands, a wide music and entertainment programme and a big wheel. The event even has its own onion queen!

The city itself is very much a hotbed of culture, both Goethe and fellow writer Friedrich von Schiller lived and died there, composer Franz Liszt lived and worked in the history city and it was also the founding home of the Bauhaus movement.

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DISCOVER GERMANY

‘It’s a lifestyle’: How you can learn to sail in Germany

Sailing or boating is a great way to experience Germany's lakes, rivers and seas to the north. The Local spoke with a German sailing instructor to find out his favourite things about sailing and how to earn a boating licence.

'It's a lifestyle': How you can learn to sail in Germany

Since he began sailing, the hobby has pushed Wahid Ajouaou Saidi to seek broader horizons. 

Eventually his goal was to cross the Atlantic Ocean – something he achieved last year when he captained a boat on a journey from France to the British Virgin Islands in the Caribbean. But the Tübingen native has always enjoyed sailing at home in Germany’s lakes and waterways.

Ajouaou Saidi teaches sailing and boating as well as occasionally leading expeditions or delivering boats overseas through his business, Medlantic Watersports.

Through a partnership with another Berlin-based sailing school, he carves out a living by sharing his passion with eager students – some of whom want to eventually cross the Atlantic themselves, while plenty of others are content to just take a boat out on the Spree or a lake nearby.

The Local spoke with Ajouaou Saidi about the best places to sail in Germany, and how to get a German boating licence (with or without German speaking skills).

Where and when to sail in Germany

Wahid Ajouaou Saidi grew up in southern Germany and still treasures the region’s lakes.

“My most beloved place in Germany in general is Lake Constance, or Bodensee as we call it in German. It’s so huge and you have a view of the Alps from there – it’s really beautiful in the summertime,” he said.

But in recent years, Ajouaou Saidi has settled in Berlin, so he’s taken to navigating different waters.

“Wannsee and Müggelsee are really great for sailing,” Ajouaou Saidi told The Local. “And of course the Baltic Sea is also not that far away.”

There are also plenty of rivers in Germany – many of which are open for sailing.

When he’s teaching courses in Berlin, Ajouaou Saidi initially takes his students out on the River Spree.

“There are huge differences between sailing on rivers or lakes,” he said, adding that he generally prefers lakes for their wide open space and lack of current.

The sailing season in Germany is generally from April to October, give or take a few weeks depending on the weather.

Flux Ahoi

A view of the FluxAhoi sailing school on the Spree in Berlin. Photo by @Haenselbert

Do you need a licence?

Generally, boats with engines up to 15 horsepower can be freely operated by anyone–which is why anyone can rent small boats on the Spree, for example.

But for all boats with engines above 15 horsepower, including both sailboats and motorboats, you need a boating licence to legally operate the vessel in Germany.

If you’ve earned a boating licence in another country, your foreign licence also works in Deutschland–at least initially.

But similar to a driver’s license, eventually you’ll need to get the German equivalent to keep boating.

“If you live in Germany for more than one year, you need to have the German licence,” Ajouaou Saidi explained.

How to get a boating licence in Germany

Again, similar to driver’s licences, the path to earning a boating licence generally involves taking a course which includes both theory and practice hours, and then passing a test.

The tricky thing about earning a German boating licence for non-native speakers, however, can be the language barrier. 

Ajouaou Saidi said that he realised there was a market for English-speaking sailing courses because, living in Berlin, he met quite a few people who were interested in learning to sail but weren’t confident enough in their German-speaking skills to sign up for a standard course auf Deutsch

Eventually, he partnered with Stefan Grosenick, who runs the FluxAhoi sailing school in Berlin, and together they adapted the basic German sailing course for English speakers.

“For now we are offering the inland waters pleasure craft licence (Sportbootführerschein) in English,” Ajouaou Saidi said. This is the basic licence that anyone who wants to get into boating for the first time should start with. From there you can move on to other licences for bigger vessels or specific skills.

But you’ll still need to learn the basic terms in German to pass the theory test.

“The course is in English, but you’ll see the terms in German also,” he says, adding that the boating licence exam is multiple choice, so by learning the basic terms in German most students can pass, even without excellent German speaking skills.

“Of course, you need to have some basic to intermediate German skills,” Ajouaou Saidi said, “But you don’t need to be a native speaker. It’s completely fine if you have A2 level German or higher.”

While Ajouaou Saidi’s courses are primarily offered in Berlin, he also offers an online theory course. 

So if you’re seeking an English sailing course and living elsewhere in Germany, you could start with that.

The best thing about sailing

Asked to explain one of his favourite sailing experiences, Ajouaou Saidi spoke excitedly at length about his journey across the Atlantic Ocean.

“At night, if it’s a full moon the whole horizon was lit-up, or when it was dark you just see the stars like you never saw them before…You see whales or dolphins almost every day because they love to swim in the bow wave…and if you’re into seafood, you can have great seafood everyday that you just catch yourself, said Ajouaou Saidi.

“This is what I really love about sailing. It’s not only about navigating a boat – it’s a lifestyle.” 

For more information on courses and sailing excursion offers see the FluxAhoi website, or contact Ajouaou Saidi here.

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