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HEATWAVE

No more ‘dolce vita’: How extreme weather could change Italian tourism forever

As increasingly unpredictable weather deters visitors, the climate crisis could hit tourism in Italy harder than elsewhere, writes Silvia Marchetti.

No more 'dolce vita': How extreme weather could change Italian tourism forever
People sunbathe on the shores of Lake Bracciano, near Rome, a reservoir which has repeatedly suffered low water levels due to drought in recent years. (Photo by Andreas SOLARO / AFP)

We’re all aware of rising temperatures and changeable weather, but I believe the impact of the climate crisis has particularly big implications for Italian tourism.

The idyllic Italian lifestyle is not just about living in a quaint rural village, eating fresh produce, enjoying the views and locations, and blending in with locals. It also entails savoring a mild, friendly climate. The phrase ‘under the Tuscan sun’, although a cliché, highlights exactly this weather idyll that visitors adore.

But now, climate change is negatively impacting tourism in Italy.

READ ALSO: Mass tourism is back in Italy – but the way we travel is changing

Foreigners have long flocked to Italy for the year-round warm and sunny climate. I’ve met Germans and Swedes happily swimming in the sea in November, American tourists wearing shorts in December, or scuba diving without wetsuits. It has been heaven to them, and it still is for those less aware of certain weather changes, which are often just perceived by locals or foreigners who have been living in Italy for a while.

A few foreign residents living in the deep south recently told me they fear the sizzling hot summer, and they already hate those scorching summer days when they are forced to stay shut at home with AC on full power.

Going forward, summers are bound to get warmer, not in a stable, gradual way, but whimsically. I often wonder what kind of job being a meteorologist is. Weather will get more unpredictable in Italy than anywhere else in the world. 

A tourist holds a paper umbrella to protect herself from the sun during an intense heatwave in Rome. (Photo by Tiziana FABI / AFP)

There are no longer distinct boundaries between seasons. Winters are warm. April used to be already beach time, but at Easter, just looking out the window, I felt depressed. Rainy, humid nights with violent gusts of wind at my place have killed all the flowers. My garden table got thrown yards away.

READ ALSO: Climate crisis: Italy records ‘five times’ more extreme weather events in ten years

While summers have become crazy: one minute the sun shines, the next it rains, then the sun shines again, or it is sunny and rainy. Less than ten years ago, Italy enjoyed six months of warmish weather, and I used to live at my summer house for half of the year. Now, I only stay there in July. Weather has become more dangerous, with even tornadoes like the one that struck the island of Pantelleria a few years ago.

I call this type of tempo (meaning time but also weather in Italian) un tempo senza tempo – an unidentified ‘weather without weather’.

In the long run, this will further affect travel trends. A few hoteliers I spoke to on Ponza Island off Rome’s coast complained that they had lost all of their bookings in April. The sea was rough, and the hydrofoils never landed. As a result, they are now forced to increase rates to make up for losses.  

There is a lot of concern about the impact of climate change in the hospitality sector, with many operators fearing it will be like a long pandemic-style saga that has yet to unravel.

A lifeguard indicates the usual water level on the shores of Lake Bracciano during a drought in 2017. (Photo by Andreas SOLARO / AFP)

A recent report by Italy’s government alarmed me. Estimates on the tourism sector based on the simple variation “in thermal comfort conditions” indicate that “in a scenario of a temperature increase of 2 degrees,” there is a risk of a 15 percent reduction in international arrivals, and of 21.6 percent in the event of a 4-degree increase. Losses for the Italian economy are estimated between 17 and 52 billion euros.

READ ALSO:

Italy’s famed Mediterranean climate could lose its attractiveness because it will be either too hot or too unstable even just to plan a trip from abroad. Climate change is already affecting travel trends, though to a small degree for now.

An American couple I know wanted to visit Sicily in July, but given the husband can’t stand excessive heat, they settled instead for Bolzano (and even up north, heat peaks are frequent).

Visitors read a local newspaper headline about the water crisis in the northern region of Lombardy in June 2022. Photo by Piero CRUCIATTI / AFP

Inbound tourism from Asia will also be affected: Italy has always been the most visited European country by Chinese travelers, who often do not like scorching sun and high temperatures, and who are easily spotted walking around under sun umbrellas and white layers of sunblock.

Seasonal food, another tourist lure, is already a victim of the weather. Markets sell melons from Tunisia and oranges from Egypt. Iconic dishes made with fresh tomatoes and other produce will not taste the same.

I’m afraid Italy will experience more and more tornadoes, wildfires, and rough seas, with the risk of jeopardizing the iconic Italian ‘Dolce Vita’ lifestyle which won’t be so sweet anymore.

Member comments

  1. I’m skeptical. Having lived in Italy for 30 years, the climate I experienced wasn’t always so predictable nor ideal. The climate changes your article points out have always existed. I remember that Spring in Italy wasn’t “la dolce vita.” It rains constantly right up to June and July. In Milan it snowed in April. I sincerely doubt the impact of weather conditions will deter tourism because it never has before. I wonder if perhaps there isn’t ‘much to do about nothing’ in the national media.

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TOURISM

‘Not even that ancient’: The harshest TripAdvisor comments about Italy’s sights

From Roman ruins to grand Gothic palaces, Italy’s most popular tourist attractions welcome hundreds of thousands of visitors every year – but not everyone leaves satisfied.

'Not even that ancient': The harshest TripAdvisor comments about Italy's sights

With its rich cultural heritage and plenty of art and architecture wonders, Italy draws hundreds of thousands of visitors from all corners of the world every year. 

But a quick scroll through the review section of travel website TripAdvisor will be enough to show that some of the country’s most famous attractions aren’t to everyone’s taste.

Colosseum, Rome

It may be Italy’s biggest tourist attraction, but even the Colosseum – the largest ancient amphitheatre ever built, dating back to 80 AD – fails to impress some.

“I came. I saw. I left,” wrote one reviewer, saying that looking at pictures of the building and reading about its history will spare you from “a long wait line, a port a john [sic] bathroom, and a big disappointment”.

READ ALSO: Nine tips for making the most of a Rome city break

Others were seemingly not so happy with the overall state of the attraction.

“[It] was a lot more broken than I thought it would be, at £15 a pop you’d think they’d invest in repairing it,” one wrote. 

“Not even got a roof? When they finishing it [sic]?” asked another. 

Milan, Duomo 

Though it is often regarded as one of, if not the greatest example of Italian Gothic architecture, not everyone seems to be impressed by Milan’s Duomo cathedral. 

“The outside is gaudy and tacky as the worst of Las Vegas,” while “the inside is as bad taste as the outside” and not worth the wait, “even if they paid you”, one reviewer wrote.

READ ALSO: Stay away! How Europe’s most popular spots are fighting overtourism

Another said the Duomo was no different than any “old cathedral” found in every European city, claiming that “pigeons watching [sic] is more exciting than this building”.

Speaking of pigeons, one tourist warned future visitors about the aggressiveness of the local bird population, saying that the area surrounding the Duomo is “swarming with thousands of pigeons that have long ago lost any fear of humans” and will “fly directly at your head”, forcing you to “take evasive action”.

Just another cathedral? The famed Duomo in Milan. Photo by Martin Anselmo on Unsplash

Doge’s Palace, Venice

Venice’s Palazzo Ducale is the third most-visited tourist attraction in the country and arguably one of the best-preserved traces of the ancient Venetian Republic’s power. 

But the palace isn’t everyone’s cup of tea – at least judging from its reviews.

“When you go inside, there’s nothing to see except a lot of paintings on the ceilings and high on the walls. The paintings are impressive but very samey,” one reviewer wrote.

READ ALSO: What’s the difference between Italy’s city taxes and new ‘tourist tax’?

“Really boring,” complained another, saying that the rooms were “bland” and “the view never got any better”. 

Other visitors said they were disappointed with some of their tour guides’ choices.

One wrote: “Our guide took pleasure in telling about people being tortured here. It was a bit grizzly [sic]. Personally I would give the place a miss.” 

Tourists sit under the archway of the Doge's Palace in Venice

The Doge’s Palace in Venice, which some visitors found abit “samey”. Photo by Marco BERTORELLO / AFP

Pompeii 

Even the Pompeii archaeological site, which consists of the ruins of a city buried under volcanic ash following the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD, has its fair share of detractors.

A reviewer described the site as being “poorly paved street after poorly paved street of pretty much the same old same old terraced house over and over and over and over”.

Another said: “I really don’t get what the hype is about.

“It’s not even that ancient since they had to build so many structures around it to keep it standing. Even the freaking pillars didn’t make it (some barely did I guess).”

One reviewer even went as far as saying it was the “worst place” he’d ever visited, mentioning he had “too much ground to cover in sweltering heat” and he “should have stayed at the nice beaches of Vico Equense”. 

Trevi Fountain, Rome

A prime example of Italian Baroque aesthetics, the Trevi fountain is one of Rome’s most widely recognised symbols worldwide, but not all visitors are impressed by it.

“It splashes and splashes. It spurtles and flows. It fountains and gurgles and is as romantic as my oldest pairs of smelly socks,” wrote one reviewer, who concluded they felt “let down”.

Tourists around Rome's Trevi Fountain

Tourists around Rome’s Trevi Fountain in March 2024. Photo by Alberto PIZZOLI / AFP

That said, many reviewers expressed appreciation for the fountain’s architecture, but complained that their visit was ruined by hordes of fellow tourists. These complaints are far from unjustified given the attraction’s long-standing overcrowding issues

One reviewer suggested that “packing a pair of 8 foot stilts” may be the only way to “ensure a satisfying visit to the Trevi”.

Another called the attraction a “claustrophobia mecca” that’s “nearly impossible to deal with because of the thousands of pushy, sweaty, rude and large tourists”.

Have you seen a surprising review of an Italian landmark? Are there any Italian sights you think are overrated? Let us know in the comments section below.

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