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FLORENCE

Has Florence really been ‘crushed’ by mass tourism?

After the director of Florence's most famous museum caused outrage by saying mass tourism has turned the city into a "prostitute", The Local's readers in the city say she has a point - and politicians should listen before it's too late.

Has Florence really been 'crushed' by mass tourism?
Tourists take pictures in front of Florence's Santa Maria Novella cathedral. (Photo by Alberto PIZZOLI / AFP)

Italy’s culture minister led angry calls for an apology this week after the German director of Florence’s Accademia Gallery branded the city a “prostitute” over its tourist crowds and their impact.

“Once a city becomes a prostitute, it is difficult for it to become a virgin again,” Cecilie Hollberg told reporters on Monday.

“Florence is very beautiful and I would like it to return to its citizens and not be crushed by tourism,” the historian added, complaining about a lack of normal shops in streets filled with souvenirs.

Culture Minister Gennaro Sangiuliano said her comments were “serious and offensive”, and threatened to take action against her, saying he would “evaluate all appropriate initiatives” available under law.

Local politicians too were outraged, with Florence’s deputy mayor asking: “are Florentines the children of a prostitute, and tourists clients of a prostitute?”

Former premier Matteo Renzi, a senator for Florence, said Hollberg “should apologise or resign”.

Hollberg did apologise shortly afterwards “for having used the wrong words,” but stressed that “Florence must be a witness for all of Italy of an increasingly conscious tourism, not ‘hit and run’ tourism.”

READ ALSO: Why Italy needs a national plan for sustainable tourism – before it’s too late

While politicians focused on the language used, many Florence visitors and residents instead said the message was important. In fact, The Local’s readers commenting on the news story voiced unanimous support for Hollberg.

“The politicians demanding an apology should stop focusing on the choice of words and instead heed the message,” commented one of The Local’s readers. “The museum director gives an accurate assessment of what tourism can do.”

Reader James commented: “The reality is that Dr Hollberg is right. Florence is on the verge of becoming uninhabitable for anyone beyond a day tourist.

“I would have expected more of our mayor than asking for her apology or resignation. Cecilie Hollberg is the best director that the Accademia has ever had, she is beyond amazing. To ask her to apologize for telling the truth is simply awful.”

READ ALSO: Has Florence banned new Airbnb rentals in the city centre?

Mike said he and his wife had visited Florence four times since 2004 and find it “an extraordinary city”, but on their last visit in 2021 the couple “were stunned to find the historic centre jammed with tourists, many of them in large groups visiting for the day.

“Streets that we once enjoyed walking down, viewing shops with wonderful displays of fabrics or stationary or food, were now lined with shops selling stuff for tourists,” he noted.

“It would be an act of political courage to return the city to something that the citizens themselves can enjoy.”

And it’s not just Florence. Mass tourism has had a negative impact on a number of Italian cities, readers agreed, with many citing Venice as the prime example as the floating city’s population continues to dwindle.

“Italy’s most prominent cities are rapidly losing their character,” said reader Arturo, adding that the nearby Tuscan city of Lucca was “also going the way of Florence and Pisa. Soon, it will also be elbow to elbow.”

Do you agree or disagree with the opinions expressed in this article? Leave a comment below to share your thoughts.

Member comments

  1. It’s really unfortunate, W have a property 50 minutes from Firenze but don’t go due to mass tourism. There a man many smaller towns as beautiful and traditional.
    I guess it’s a product of its own success, but you do reap what you sow.

  2. Visited Florence before Easter in 2022 & couldn’t believe the crowds standing elbow to elbow in the piazza in front of the Duomo. I feel so sorry for residents of the city and it wasn’t even summer!

  3. We have been visiting Florence for the past several years , enjoying walking through all the areas. This past year, when we visited it was overrun with tourists and junky souvenir kiosks. I agree with the director but wonder how you can limit the numbers. Getting rid of the souvenir kiosks is a start. There are so many artisans in Florence that should be supported instead

  4. Absolutely agree. I live here, and avoid the centre for most of the year. Our local hotel, where visiting friends used to stay, closed down just before Christmas after 30 years, driven out by the airbnbs

  5. I’m an Italian citizen but live in the US. I’ve been to Florence numerous times, the most recent in May 2023. Over the years I’ve seen the tourist crowds get thicker and thicker, to the point that it’s hard to get around il Duomo or any of the other historic places without being inundated with obnoxious tourist, buxters, pickpockets, panhandlers, trinket sellers, etc. Gone is the allure of an ancient Italian city. I am not sure what the solution is…but to allow unregulated masses of tourists, from all nations, is a mistake. We need to get this under control and preserve the culture and originality of Florence, and other cities, and not succumb to the allure of the tourism dollar, er, euro.

  6. My wife and I have traveled regularly and extensively to Florence since 1995. We love the city. Unfortunately, Florence has changed dramatically: massive short term tourism, silly rental bike/EScooter/golf cart tours in Centro’s main piazzas, and unabated expansion of AirBNBs have substantively diminished if not ruined Florence ‘s historical and cultural charm. We were planning to live and buy a home here, but are leaving, sadly.
    Dr. Philip R. Piccigallo and Rose M. Giambrone-Piccigallo

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TOURISM

‘Not even that ancient’: The harshest TripAdvisor comments about Italy’s sights

From Roman ruins to grand Gothic palaces, Italy’s most popular tourist attractions welcome hundreds of thousands of visitors every year – but not everyone leaves satisfied.

'Not even that ancient': The harshest TripAdvisor comments about Italy's sights

With its rich cultural heritage and plenty of art and architecture wonders, Italy draws hundreds of thousands of visitors from all corners of the world every year. 

But a quick scroll through the review section of travel website TripAdvisor will be enough to show that some of the country’s most famous attractions aren’t to everyone’s taste.

Colosseum, Rome

It may be Italy’s biggest tourist attraction, but even the Colosseum – the largest ancient amphitheatre ever built, dating back to 80 AD – fails to impress some.

“I came. I saw. I left,” wrote one reviewer, saying that looking at pictures of the building and reading about its history will spare you from “a long wait line, a port a john [sic] bathroom, and a big disappointment”.

READ ALSO: Nine tips for making the most of a Rome city break

Others were seemingly not so happy with the overall state of the attraction.

“[It] was a lot more broken than I thought it would be, at £15 a pop you’d think they’d invest in repairing it,” one wrote. 

“Not even got a roof? When they finishing it [sic]?” asked another. 

Milan, Duomo 

Though it is often regarded as one of, if not the greatest example of Italian Gothic architecture, not everyone seems to be impressed by Milan’s Duomo cathedral. 

“The outside is gaudy and tacky as the worst of Las Vegas,” while “the inside is as bad taste as the outside” and not worth the wait, “even if they paid you”, one reviewer wrote.

READ ALSO: Stay away! How Europe’s most popular spots are fighting overtourism

Another said the Duomo was no different than any “old cathedral” found in every European city, claiming that “pigeons watching [sic] is more exciting than this building”.

Speaking of pigeons, one tourist warned future visitors about the aggressiveness of the local bird population, saying that the area surrounding the Duomo is “swarming with thousands of pigeons that have long ago lost any fear of humans” and will “fly directly at your head”, forcing you to “take evasive action”.

Just another cathedral? The famed Duomo in Milan. Photo by Martin Anselmo on Unsplash

Doge’s Palace, Venice

Venice’s Palazzo Ducale is the third most-visited tourist attraction in the country and arguably one of the best-preserved traces of the ancient Venetian Republic’s power. 

But the palace isn’t everyone’s cup of tea – at least judging from its reviews.

“When you go inside, there’s nothing to see except a lot of paintings on the ceilings and high on the walls. The paintings are impressive but very samey,” one reviewer wrote.

READ ALSO: What’s the difference between Italy’s city taxes and new ‘tourist tax’?

“Really boring,” complained another, saying that the rooms were “bland” and “the view never got any better”. 

Other visitors said they were disappointed with some of their tour guides’ choices.

One wrote: “Our guide took pleasure in telling about people being tortured here. It was a bit grizzly [sic]. Personally I would give the place a miss.” 

Tourists sit under the archway of the Doge's Palace in Venice

The Doge’s Palace in Venice, which some visitors found abit “samey”. Photo by Marco BERTORELLO / AFP

Pompeii 

Even the Pompeii archaeological site, which consists of the ruins of a city buried under volcanic ash following the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD, has its fair share of detractors.

A reviewer described the site as being “poorly paved street after poorly paved street of pretty much the same old same old terraced house over and over and over and over”.

Another said: “I really don’t get what the hype is about.

“It’s not even that ancient since they had to build so many structures around it to keep it standing. Even the freaking pillars didn’t make it (some barely did I guess).”

One reviewer even went as far as saying it was the “worst place” he’d ever visited, mentioning he had “too much ground to cover in sweltering heat” and he “should have stayed at the nice beaches of Vico Equense”. 

Trevi Fountain, Rome

A prime example of Italian Baroque aesthetics, the Trevi fountain is one of Rome’s most widely recognised symbols worldwide, but not all visitors are impressed by it.

“It splashes and splashes. It spurtles and flows. It fountains and gurgles and is as romantic as my oldest pairs of smelly socks,” wrote one reviewer, who concluded they felt “let down”.

Tourists around Rome's Trevi Fountain

Tourists around Rome’s Trevi Fountain in March 2024. Photo by Alberto PIZZOLI / AFP

That said, many reviewers expressed appreciation for the fountain’s architecture, but complained that their visit was ruined by hordes of fellow tourists. These complaints are far from unjustified given the attraction’s long-standing overcrowding issues

One reviewer suggested that “packing a pair of 8 foot stilts” may be the only way to “ensure a satisfying visit to the Trevi”.

Another called the attraction a “claustrophobia mecca” that’s “nearly impossible to deal with because of the thousands of pushy, sweaty, rude and large tourists”.

Have you seen a surprising review of an Italian landmark? Are there any Italian sights you think are overrated? Let us know in the comments section below.

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