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FLORENCE

‘Gone forever’: How Florence’s artisans are being pushed out by tourism

Craftsmen are being evicted to make way for hotels and holidays rentals in Florence, which locals say is suffering from the scourge of 'hit and run' tourism.

Tourists queue to enter in the Duomo in Florence, on February 15, 2024.
Tourists queue to enter in the Duomo in Florence, on February 15, 2024. Photo by Alberto PIZZOLI / AFP.

Goldsmith Tommaso Pestelli was evicted from his historic Florence workshop to make way for a luxury hotel, the umpteenth victim of a mass tourism critics say is ravaging the Italian city.

Calls for urgent action to protect the city centre, a UNESCO site, intensified last month after a museum director said “hit and run” tourism had transformed Florence into a “prostitute”.

Some 1.5 million tourists flocked to the city last summer, up 6.6 percent on the previous year, while an increasing number of independent shops and residential apartments are being transformed into fast food outlets and holiday lets.

READ ALSO: What’s being done to save Florence from mass tourism?

“We’ve been open since 1908. If you get rid of us, and many others like us, you take away part of the city’s spirit,” said Pestelli, whose father, grandfather and great-grandfather were goldsmiths before him.

Pestelli, 55, managed to find another little workshop nearby, but says many fellow artisans have not been so lucky.

Goldsmith Tommaso Pestelli, poses in front of his former workshop, in Florence, on February 15, 2024. Photo by Alberto PIZZOLI / AFP.

The average cost of monthly residential rents leapt 42 percent between 2016 and 2023, while the number of apartments listed on Airbnb jumped from some 6,000 to nearly 15,000, official figures show.

Even in February, tourist queues snake around the block at the Duomo and throng around Michelangelo’s David.

With locals forced out and traditional shops disappearing, “Florence is becoming an empty box”, Pestelli said.

READ ALSO: Why Italy needs a national plan for sustainable tourism – before it’s too late

Elena Bellini, 47, who sells work by local artists, said the drop in the number of long-term residents was killing neighbourhoods and had lead to more crime, like attempted break-ins.

“Florence is dying!” read a notice in the window of a jewellers saying the city had been “sold” to big business.

Tourists look at the window of a jewelery shop of Ponte Vecchio in Florence, on February 15, 2024. Photo by Alberto PIZZOLI / AFP.

Airbnb ban

The Tuscan capital is not alone. Venice and other top destinations like the Cinque Terre in northwest Italy have also seen locals driven away by astronomical rents, overcrowded sites and endless souvenir shops.

While Venice is trialling a ticketing system, with day visitors to be charged an entry fee in high seasons, Florence’s centre-left city council has launched a campaign to entice tourists away from the centre.

READ ALSO: Has Florence really been ‘crushed’ by mass tourism?

“People are increasingly looking for ‘experience-based itineraries’, so we have to promote… other points of historical, artistic, naturalistic and gastronomic interest,” Deputy Mayor Alessia Bettini told AFP.

Visitors to surrounding villages, castles and abbeys were up 4.5 percent in January, while the number of hikers tackling the Path of the Gods across the Apennines to Bologna rose 22 percent last year.

Tourists stand in front of a replica of the statue of David by artist Michelangelo at Piazza della Signoria in Florence, on February 15, 2024. Photo by Alberto PIZZOLI / AFP.

The council has also attempted to free up homes for local people and prevent rents spiralling further by banning new short-term private vacation rentals in the historic centre.

The measure, adopted in October, also includes tax breaks for landlords if they switch back to ordinary leases.

‘Gone forever’

Despite the ban, a dozen or so artisans are being evicted from workshops in a building near the Ponte Vecchio, amid plans to transform it for tourism.

“The Florentine goldsmith tradition is rather quickly falling to pieces,” said Pestelli.

A few streets away, Gabriele Maselli, president of Florence’s Historical Businesses Association, paints a gold picture frame by hand, rows of brightly coloured pots and powders lining the shelves behind him.

Gabriele Maselli poses in his workshop where he paints gold picture frames by hand, in Florence, on February 15, 2024. Photo by Alberto PIZZOLI / AFP.

A large crucifix stands propped against one wall, while nearby a restorer repairs the surface of a damaged painting.

“People come to Florence for quality things, made painstakingly by hand,” 58-year-old Maselli said.

“If a business is forced to close though, it affects the whole production chain. A whole world closes, gone forever”.

By AFP’s Ella Ide.

Member comments

  1. Gabriele Maselli is correct about Florence. We live full-time in the Historic Center of Venice, and we have been watching it slowly slip away over the last few years. In 5 to 10 years, these cities will become open-air museums with no local character or charm.
    We used to enjoy Florence so much. Now, we hardly ever go.

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TOURISM

‘Not even that ancient’: The harshest TripAdvisor comments about Italy’s sights

From Roman ruins to grand Gothic palaces, Italy’s most popular tourist attractions welcome hundreds of thousands of visitors every year – but not everyone leaves satisfied.

'Not even that ancient': The harshest TripAdvisor comments about Italy's sights

With its rich cultural heritage and plenty of art and architecture wonders, Italy draws hundreds of thousands of visitors from all corners of the world every year. 

But a quick scroll through the review section of travel website TripAdvisor will be enough to show that some of the country’s most famous attractions aren’t to everyone’s taste.

Colosseum, Rome

It may be Italy’s biggest tourist attraction, but even the Colosseum – the largest ancient amphitheatre ever built, dating back to 80 AD – fails to impress some.

“I came. I saw. I left,” wrote one reviewer, saying that looking at pictures of the building and reading about its history will spare you from “a long wait line, a port a john [sic] bathroom, and a big disappointment”.

READ ALSO: Nine tips for making the most of a Rome city break

Others were seemingly not so happy with the overall state of the attraction.

“[It] was a lot more broken than I thought it would be, at £15 a pop you’d think they’d invest in repairing it,” one wrote. 

“Not even got a roof? When they finishing it [sic]?” asked another. 

Milan, Duomo 

Though it is often regarded as one of, if not the greatest example of Italian Gothic architecture, not everyone seems to be impressed by Milan’s Duomo cathedral. 

“The outside is gaudy and tacky as the worst of Las Vegas,” while “the inside is as bad taste as the outside” and not worth the wait, “even if they paid you”, one reviewer wrote.

READ ALSO: Stay away! How Europe’s most popular spots are fighting overtourism

Another said the Duomo was no different than any “old cathedral” found in every European city, claiming that “pigeons watching [sic] is more exciting than this building”.

Speaking of pigeons, one tourist warned future visitors about the aggressiveness of the local bird population, saying that the area surrounding the Duomo is “swarming with thousands of pigeons that have long ago lost any fear of humans” and will “fly directly at your head”, forcing you to “take evasive action”.

Just another cathedral? The famed Duomo in Milan. Photo by Martin Anselmo on Unsplash

Doge’s Palace, Venice

Venice’s Palazzo Ducale is the third most-visited tourist attraction in the country and arguably one of the best-preserved traces of the ancient Venetian Republic’s power. 

But the palace isn’t everyone’s cup of tea – at least judging from its reviews.

“When you go inside, there’s nothing to see except a lot of paintings on the ceilings and high on the walls. The paintings are impressive but very samey,” one reviewer wrote.

READ ALSO: What’s the difference between Italy’s city taxes and new ‘tourist tax’?

“Really boring,” complained another, saying that the rooms were “bland” and “the view never got any better”. 

Other visitors said they were disappointed with some of their tour guides’ choices.

One wrote: “Our guide took pleasure in telling about people being tortured here. It was a bit grizzly [sic]. Personally I would give the place a miss.” 

Tourists sit under the archway of the Doge's Palace in Venice

The Doge’s Palace in Venice, which some visitors found abit “samey”. Photo by Marco BERTORELLO / AFP

Pompeii 

Even the Pompeii archaeological site, which consists of the ruins of a city buried under volcanic ash following the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD, has its fair share of detractors.

A reviewer described the site as being “poorly paved street after poorly paved street of pretty much the same old same old terraced house over and over and over and over”.

Another said: “I really don’t get what the hype is about.

“It’s not even that ancient since they had to build so many structures around it to keep it standing. Even the freaking pillars didn’t make it (some barely did I guess).”

One reviewer even went as far as saying it was the “worst place” he’d ever visited, mentioning he had “too much ground to cover in sweltering heat” and he “should have stayed at the nice beaches of Vico Equense”. 

Trevi Fountain, Rome

A prime example of Italian Baroque aesthetics, the Trevi fountain is one of Rome’s most widely recognised symbols worldwide, but not all visitors are impressed by it.

“It splashes and splashes. It spurtles and flows. It fountains and gurgles and is as romantic as my oldest pairs of smelly socks,” wrote one reviewer, who concluded they felt “let down”.

Tourists around Rome's Trevi Fountain

Tourists around Rome’s Trevi Fountain in March 2024. Photo by Alberto PIZZOLI / AFP

That said, many reviewers expressed appreciation for the fountain’s architecture, but complained that their visit was ruined by hordes of fellow tourists. These complaints are far from unjustified given the attraction’s long-standing overcrowding issues

One reviewer suggested that “packing a pair of 8 foot stilts” may be the only way to “ensure a satisfying visit to the Trevi”.

Another called the attraction a “claustrophobia mecca” that’s “nearly impossible to deal with because of the thousands of pushy, sweaty, rude and large tourists”.

Have you seen a surprising review of an Italian landmark? Are there any Italian sights you think are overrated? Let us know in the comments section below.

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